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COURSE  OF  STUDY 


Manual  Training  Department 

OF    THE 

Elementary   Public   Schools 


CHICAGO 


1899  -  1900 


PREPARED    BY 

R.   F.   BEARDSLEY 

SUPERVISOR    OF 
MANUAL   TRAINING 


LUpCd 


HDUCATION  DEPT- 


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MANUAL  TRAINING. 

"  Manual  Training  is  any  form  of  constructive  work  that  serves  to  develop 
the  powers  of  the  pupil  through  spontaneous  and  intelligent  self-activity." — 
American  Manual  Training  Association. 


THIS  manual  is  designed  as  a  guide  to  the  teachers  of  con- 
structive work  in  the  Chicago  Elementary  Schools.  The 
models  shown  are  such  as  have  proved  of  value  in  developing,  not 
alone  manual  skill,  but  such  as  will  tend  to  lead  children  to  inde- 
pendent thinking. 

Many  forms  of  hand  work  are  being  used  as  a  means  of  edu- 
cation. They  have  come  to  us  under  various  titles.  An  explana- 
tion of  the  most  important  forms  of  constructive  work  which  are 
used  as  Manual  Training,  will  perhaps  serve  as  an  aid  to  the  fur- 
ther investigation  and  to  a  clearer  conception  of  the  purposes  for 
which  the  work  is  given. 

^^The  Russian  Method''  of  tool  instruction  consists  in  a  series 
of  exercises  based  upon  and  accompanied  by  an  analysis  of  three 
things:  the  tools,  the  materials  and  the  elements  of  construction. 
Pieces  of  wood  or  other  material  are  made  into  joints  and  fittings, 
each  one  showing,  in  abstract  form,  some  mechanical  principle. 

The  training  for  skill  in  tool  practice,  the  intimate  acquaint- 
ance with  materials  and  the  study  of  a  limited  number  of  elements 
of  construction,  are  the  basis  and  aim  of  this  form  of  Manual 
Training.      Objects  of  utility  are  seldom  made. 

In  ^^  Sloyd"  a  series  of  models  is  planned  by  the  teacher,  each 
model  being  a  useful  object  (usually  for  the  home),  and  each  so 
designed  that  its  execution  introduces  both  a  new  tool  and  a  new 
exercise  in  the  use  of  tools  already  familiar  to  the  pupil.  Progres- 
sive training  in  tool  practice  and  an  incentive  to  careful  work  is 
thus  attained.  The  models  are  usually  made  pleasing  in  form  and 
proportion,  and  the  exercises  in  tool  work  are  arranged  to  give 
good  physical  training.     The  training  of  creative  powers  and  the 

54N05 


opportunity  for  self  expression  are  lacking  in  any  form  of  Manual 
Training  where  the  finished  object  or  ''model"  is  presented  for 
the  pupil  to  copy. 

No  name  has  been  found  to  place  in  a  distinct  class  that  form 
of  Manual  Training  which  is  being  devised  by  the  combined  efforts 
of  technical  men  and  trained  teachers.  The  definition  at  the  head 
of  this  article  expresses  the  idea. 

The  best  form  of  Manual  Training  is  still  in  a  formative  stage 
and  will  be  realized  only  when  the  training  for  skill,  the  copying 
of  models  and  the  technical  features  are  subordinated  to  the  out- 
working of  the  child's  imaginative  ideals.  We  must,  however, 
keep  ever  before  us  the  truism  that  accuracy  and  neatness  are  a 
part  of  our  patrimony  and  our  patriotism. 

No  set  of  models  can  express  the  manual  training  idea,  nor 
can  any  definite  course  of  work  be  applicable  to  all  of  the  diverse 
conditions  to  be  met  in  one  city  or  even  in  one  school,  conse- 
quently the  courses  shown  are  arranged  merely  as  a  base  from 
which  to  work.  Considering  that  the  development  of  the  child 
morally  and  mentally  is  the  object  of  education,  then  the  acquisi- 
tion of  skill,  which  heretofore  has  been  the  dominant  feature  in 
manual  training,  will  become  incidental,  and  the  exercise  of  the 
faculties  in  self-expression  will  become  the  basis  for  our  teaching. 
Not  that  the  training  for  skill  is  to  be  neglected,  but  it  should  not 
be  fostered  at  the  expense  of  the  child's  broad  understanding  of 
nature  and  nature's  laws. 

A  closer  relation  between  the  work  in  the  shops  and  the  work 
of  the  grade  teacher  is  desired  in  order  to  give  life  to  the  work  of 
the  shops,  which  should  be  considered  as  school  laboratories  where 
the  work  of  the  class-room  is  to  be  more  fully  developed.  The 
special  teachers  of  manual  training  should  keep  in  constant  touch 
with  the  progress  of  the  grades,  and  should,  as  far  as  possible, 
plan  to  have  each  lesson  express  in  some  way  the  work  which  is 
being  carried  on  in  the  class-room. 

Play  as  a  means  of  education  has  been  shown  to  be  most  val- 
uable in  our  vacation  schools  and  in  the  Kindergarten.  The  con- 
struction of  apparatus  for  games  and  plays  will  be  found  to  bring 
our  work  in  closer  touch  witli  the  child's  life.  Several  games 
shown  among  the  models  here  presented  will  illustrate  this  idea. 


Apparatus  for  scientific  experiment  and  for  physical  culture 
■opens  another  field  for  the  development  of  the  inventive  faculty. 

The  making  of  useful  objects,  such  as  are  needed  in  the  homes 
of  the  children,  has  heretofore  constituted  the  best  form  of  Man- 
ual Training.  There  seems  to  exist  the  necessity  for  an  improve- 
ment on  this  practice,  which,  even  though  it  gives  adequate  training 
for  skill  and  holds  the  interest  of  our  pupils,  fails  to  ally  the  work 
with  the  life  which  the  children  are  leading  in  the  school  room. 
The  steps  necessary  to  a  realization  of  that  which,  in  our  present 
stage  of  enlightenment,  we  would  class  as  ideal  manual  training, , 
must  be  gradual  in  order  that  the  training  for  skill  of  hand  be  not 
entirely  lost  to  sight.  Manual  training  should  be  made  serviceable 
to  the  school  room. 

To  this  end  we  have  introduced  into  the  course  a  number  of 
articles  dealing  with  simple  apparatus  for  demonstration  in  sci- 
ence, in  which  the  tasks  for  manual  work  are  derived  from  the 
theoretic  teaching  of  the  schools.  Our  aim  being  to  educate  hand 
and  eye  and  to  use  the  overcoming  of  obstacles  in  forming  will- 
power, we  should  refrain  from  using  tasks  which  present  no  tech- 
nical difficulties,  but  should  strive  to  make  each  object  in  the 
simplest  possible  way.  The  objects  must  be  presented  in  regular 
sequence  as  regards  tool  practice,  and  must  therefore  be  taken,  as 
may  seem  in  rather  a  random  way,  from  physics,  electricity, 
optics,  or  mechanics. 

Woodwork  is  sufficient  for  a  two  or  three  years  course  but  is 
not  diversified  enough  for  constructive  work  throughout  the  grades. 
In  consideration  of  this  I  would  advise  the  use  of  many  materials 
and  would  recommend  that  in  planning  exercises  teachers  make 
use  of  any  material  which  would  be  most  fitted  to  the  work.* 
Clay,  paper,  paper  pulp,  cardboard,  tin,  wire,  twine  and  many 
other  mediums  may  be  used  alone  or  in  combination  with  wood  to 
produce  the  articles  or  objects  desired. 

It  should  always  be  the  aim  of  teachers  to  train  the  judgment 
of  pupils  to  perceive  and  appreciate  excellence  in  design,  propor- 
tion, beauty,  and  above  all,  adaptability  to  the  use  intended. 

The  directions  for  work  herein  given  are  not  necessarily  the 
ones  which  would  be  followed  by  a  mechanic  in  constructing  each 


*See  Constructive  Work. 


object,  but  are  arranged  with  the  idea  in  view  of  a  progressive  de- 
velopment of  the  child  mentally  and  physically.  These  directions 
are  to  be  carefully  followed  by  teachers,  and  the  tools  therein 
specified  are  to  be  used. 

EACH  LESSON  IS.   IN  GENERAL.  TO  BE  GIVEN  IN  THE 
FOLLOWING  ORDER  : 

First:  Theoretical  Instruct iofi  as  to  necessary  material  and 
tools,  and  explanation  of  the  nature  and  use  of  the  particular 
exercise. 

Second  :  Drawing.  Free-hand  sketching  of  teacher's  model, 
and  constructive  drawing  made  from  this  sketch. 

Third  :  Demonstration  by  the  teacher,  of  the  manner  in 
which  the  object  is  to  be  made. 

The  Theoretical  Instruction  is  to  comprise  and  include 
descriptions  of  various  kinds  of  woods  and  trees,  their  uses,  and 
the  reasons  for  same.  Structure,  growth  and  properties ;  the 
methods  employed  to  prepare  them  for  use,  defects  and  their 
causes,  as  also  the  various  means  employed  for  preservation. 

Tools  are  to  be  accurately  and  minutely  described,  and  the 
historical  development  and  utility  of  each  particular  part  is  to  be 
made  clear.  The  nature,  properties,  origin  and  manufacture  of 
the  metals  which  compose  the  different  implements,  is  to  be  indi- 
cated, with  special  reference  to  steel  in  its  relation  to  iron,  and 
how  to  harden  it.  The  sharpening  and  care  of  edged  tools  is  to  he 
taught  at  the  time  of  their  introduction  into  the  work. 

The  Course  in  Drawing  will  be  given  as  follows  : 

In  the  case  of  objects  made  from  one  piece  of  thin  wood, 
where  but  one  view  is  required,  no  drawing  is  to  be  made.  Pupils 
will  under  these  conditions  work  from  the  teacher's  model,  and 
from  a  blackboard  drawing. 

In  the  case  of  all  objects  requiring  two  or  more  views  for 
their  representation,  pupils  will  in  every  case  make  a  free-hand 
sketch  from  the  teacher's  model,  showing  the  necessary  views  and 
dimensions,  except  where  otherwise  indicated  in  the  directions. 

This  sketch,  after  being  approved  by  the  teacher,  is  to  serve 
as  a  basis  for  the  finished  working  drawing.     The  pupil  should  be 


7 
taught   that  this  class    of   drawing   is   a   convenient   and  forcible 
means  of  thought  expression. 

No  drawings  will  be  required  of  ''extras"  or  such  objects  as 
are  to  be  made  by  those  pupils  who  are  in  advance  of  the  class. 
Blue  prints  will  be  furnished  for  this  class  of  work. 

In  the  case  of  all  regular  or  class-work  the  teacher  is  required 

to    DEMONSTRATE,    BEFORE    THE    ASSEMBLED    CLASS,    the    methods    tO 

be  pursued  in  constructing  the  object  under  consideration. 

The  successive  steps  in  the  execution  of  the  exercise  are  to 
be  indicated  and  demonstrated.  This  includes  all  operations  nec- 
essary to  the  production  of  the  finished  article,  the  use  of  the 
various  tools,  the  testing  and  marking  of  completed  faces.  Diffi- 
cult points  in  the  exercise  should  be  anticipated  by  the  teacher, 
who  will  emphasize  the  means  to  be  taken  to  avoid  or  overcome 
them,  and  cautions  previously  given  regarding  the  holding  and 
using  of  edge  tools  should  be  repeated. 

Individual  demonstration  is  to  be  given  upon  anything  but 
the  pupil's  work,  which  is  to  be  entirely  the  product  of  his  own 
skill. 

Hasty  and  careless  work  should  be  early  detected  and  cor- 
rected. This  being  possible  if  it  is  required  that  each  of  the  steps 
in  the  exercise  be  executed  and  submitted  for  inspection  before 
further  work  is  undertaken. 

Ornamentation  in  the  form  of  background  punching  and 
chip-carving  is  introduced  to  develop  artistic  feeling  and  to  culti- 
vate the  inventive  faculty.  Therefore,  in  giving  this  work  avoid 
as  much  as  possible  the  copying  of  designs  shown  in  this  pam- 
phlet. These  designs  are  intended  merely  as  suggestions. 
Stimulate  the  pupils  to  plan  their  own  designs,  which  when 
properly  criticised  and  corrected  by  the  teacher,  will  in  most 
cases  prove  effective. 

As  a  means  of  awakening  the  interest  of  children  we  have 
found  nothing  better  than  to  allow  them  to  plan  some  form  of 
ornamentation  and  execute  it  as  an  ''extra." 

Work  which  is  not  a  pupil's  best  effort  should  never  be  dec- 
orated. Neither  should  ornamentation  be  used  to  hide  defective 
workmanship. 

Sandpaper   should  be  used  only  to   clean   the  work.       It    is 


8 

never  to  be  considered  as  a  cutting  tool,  nor  used  to  remove  irreg- 
ularities in  tool  work. 

Putty  is  to  be  used  ofily  to  cover  the  heads  of  nails  or  screws 
which  are  set  or  countersunk. 

The  steel  scrapers  are  for  use  on  hollows  and  rounds.  They 
may  be  classed  as  cutting  tools. 

ACCIDENTS. 

''Slight  wounds  are  liable  to  occur  in  the  course  of  the  man- 
ual training  work,  and  should  be  managed  in  accordance  with  the 
methods  of  modern  aseptic  surgery,  not  only  for  the  immediate 
benefit  of  the  one  injured  but  for  the  educational  value  derived 
from  extending  a  knowledge  of  such  methods.  Teachers  are 
therefore  urged  to  follow  accurately  the  following  instructions, 
which  so  far  as  they  go  may  be  considered  to  represent  the  meth- 
ods followed  by  the  advanced  surgery  of  the  day." 

''First  all  foreign  material  or  dirt  must  be  kept  out  of 
wounds.  By  the  word  dirt  is  meant  anything  capable  of  bearing 
such  micro-organisms  as  produce  pus  or  blood  poisoning.  Such 
organisms  are  constantly  present  in  the  air,  and  upon  all  sub- 
stances exposed  to  the  air,  such  as  handkerchiefs,  tools,  the  skin, 
etc.,  also  in  water,  except  that  which  has  been  purified  by  recent 
boiling.  The  individual  who  takes  charge  of  a  wound  should  first 
carefully  wash  his  hands,  then  wash  the  wound  with  recently  boiled 
water,  or  with  water  which  has  been  purified  by  passing  through 
a  germ-proof  filter  such  as  the  Pasteur.  In  washing  a  wound 
never  wash  anything  into  it,  but  always  away  from  it.  Then  with- 
out touching  the  fingers  to  the  wound  cover  it  with  some  of  the 
purified  (sterilized)  gauze  found  among  the  supplies.  The  gauze 
should  be  thickly  massed  over  the  wound,  care  being  taken  to 
avoid  having  that  portion  of  it  which  immediately  covers  the 
wound  come  in  contact  with  the  fingers,  clothing,  table,  or  any- 
thing else  which  has  been  exposed  to  the  air.  The  gauze  should 
then  be  fastened  down  over  the  wound  by  a  bandage,  or  where 
convenient  by  a  piece  of  adhesive  plaster." 

"In  removing  the  gauze  from  the  jar,  cut  off  what  is  wanted 
with  a  pair  of  clean  scissors,  and  immediately  close  the  jar,  ex- 
posing the  contents  to  the  air  as  little  as  possible." 


'*When  the  bleeding  is  slight  it  serves  to  cleanse  the  wound 
partially  and  is  not  dangerous.  The  pressure  from  the  bandage, 
which  should  never  be  excessive,  will  in  the  great  majority  of 
cases  be  found  to  be  sufficient  to  control  the  bleeding.  Cobwebs 
and  other  infected  material  should  never  be  used  to  stop  bleeding. 
When  bleeding  is  excessive  it  can  be  controlled  by  tying  a  band- 
age around  the  limb  involved,  at  some  place  where  the  tissues  are 
soft,  and  tightening  it  if  necessary  by  twisting  it  with  a  ruler." 


DIRECTIONS 

F-OR 

MANUAL  TRAINING  TEACHERS. 


During  the  school  year  of  1899  and  1900  teachers  in  the 
Manual  Training  Department  will  conduct  the  work  in  the  shops 
in  accordance  with  the  following  directions  : 

1.  On  all  school  days  teachers  are  to  be  present  in  their  shops 
from  8.30  A.M.  to  12.00  M.,  and  from  i. 00  p.m.  to  4.00  p.m.,  unless 
excused  by  the  principal.  Teachers  of  Manual  Training  may  re- 
main in  their  shops  until  5.00  p.m.  on  school  days,  and  on  Satur- 
days while  the  janitor  is  in  the  building,  (see  proceedings  of  the 
Board,  Jan.  25,  1899,  page  452). 

2.  Supplies  (including  lumber,  sundries  and  tools),  to  the 
maximum  amount  of  one  hundred  dollars  ($100.00)  will  be  fur- 
nished to  each  shop.  The  cost  of  each  item  of  supplies  is  shown 
in  the  supply  list.  Teachers  are  cautioned  to  so  regulate  their 
orders  that  they  may  never  be  in  danger  of  overdrawing. 

3.  Any  changes  in  the  course  of  study,  or  plans  for  the  con- 
struction of  apparatus  not  shown  in  this  book  are  to  be  submitted 
to  the  Supervisor  for  approval  before  construction  is  begun. 

4.  {a)  In  order  that  a  suitable  exhibit  may  be  made  of  the  work 
in  your  shop,  you  will  keep  the  entire  product  of  one  class  in  each 
exercise.  You  will  thereby  have  a  representative  collection  of 
work  at  the  end  of  the  year,  and  will  have  deprived  each  class  of 
but  one  piece. 

{b')  None  of  the  articles  made  are  to  be  distributed  to  pupils 
until  they  have  been  inspected  and  approved  by  the  Supervisor  of 
Manual  Training. 

5.  The  extras  are  to  be  made  only  by  such  pupils  as  have 
satisfactorily  made  the  regular  exercise  and  have  finished  the  same 
ahead  of  the  majority  of  the  class. 

6.  Finish.  Not  more  than  two  coats  of  shellac  are  to  be  ap- 
plied to  any  exercise,  except  where  specifically  directed  in  this 
course  of  study. 


11 

7-  Pupils'  work,  either  finished  or  unfinished,  when  left  by 
them,  is  to  be  destroyed,  and  is  never  to  be  given  to  other  pupils, 
because  in  that  case  they  would  be  tempted  to  display  as  their 
own  the  work  of  others. 

8.  Tools  are  not  to  be  loaned  from  the  Manual  Training 
shop  either  to  teachers  or  other  employes  of  the  Board  of  Educa- 
tion ;  carpenters  in  the  employ  of.  the  Board  of  Education  are, 
however,  to  be  allowed  to  use  the  grindstone  at  times  when  the 
Manual  Training  teacher  is  present,  provided  this  use  of  the  stone 
in  no  way  interferes  with  or  infringes  the  rights  of  the  classes. 

9.  Tools  are  to  be  inspected  by  the  pupils  of  each  class  at 
once  upon  their  arrival,  and  a  report  made  to  the  teacher  as  to 
defect  or  shortage.  Pupils  are  required  to  replace  all  tools  lost 
or  broken  by  them,  and  also  in  cases  where  neglect  to  report 
leaves  the  fixing  of  responsibility  open  to  dispute.  (Teachers  will 
be  held  accountable  for  all  tools  and  apparatus  under  their  charge.) 

TO.  Sharp  Tools.  Extra  plane-blades  are  furnished  in  suffi- 
cient quantity  so  that  no  pupil  should  be  required  to  sharpen 
blades  that  have  been  dulled  by  others.  Dulled  or  nicked  plane- 
blades  should  be  reported  upon  entrance  of  the  class,  and  the 
blades  kept  for  those  to  sharpen  who  have  dulled  them. 

11.  Each  exercise  is  to  be  viade  by  the  teacher  in  the 
presence  of  the  assembled  class. 

12.  A  copy  of  your  program  is  to  be  placed  upon  the  black- 
board in  your  shop. 

13.  The  order  of  several  of  our  shops  during  the  past  year 
has  not  been  ideal.  Please  see  that  your  shop  presents  a  neat 
and  tidy  appearance  at  all  times. 

14.  Varnish,  glue,  stain,  etc.,  are  not  to  be  used  at  the 
benches.  (A  respect  for  tools  and  equipment  is  one  of  the  im- 
portant things  to  teach  the  boys.) 

15.  All  absences  of  teachers  are  to  be  reported  immediately 
by  them  to  the  Supervisor,  together  with  an  explanation  of  the 
cause. 

16.  A  letter  file  is  provided  for  use  in  your  shop.  This  is  to  be 
hung  in  the  shop,  and  in  it  you  are  to  preserve  all  communications 
from  this  office,  except  such  as  may  be  of  a  personal  nature,  not 
relating  to  your  school  work,  or  such  as  are  returnable  to  this  office. 


12 
1 7-    Wood    handscrevvs    are    not    to   be   used    until    properly 
lubricated  with  a  mixture  of  oil  and  graphite. 

1 8.  (a)  Gas  is  to  be  used  for  illuminatioti  only,  except  by 
special  permit  signed  by  Supervisor  of  Manual  Training. 

(^)  Gas  is  to  be  used  economically,  and  is  to  be  turned  off 
when  not  in  actual  use. 

{c)  Pupils  must  never  be  allowed  to  light  the  gas  ;  this  is  to 
be  done  by  the  teacher. 

19.  Teachers  are  to  call  personally  for  salary  checks. 

20.  Report  blanks  are  furnished  in  order  that  a  daily  report 
of  absence,  or  tardiness  may  be  made  by  you  to  the  principal  of 
each  school  sending  pupils  to  the  Manual  Training  Shops.  (A 
report  is  to  be  sent  with  every  class.) 

21.  All  drawings  are  to  be  preserved  and  arrangements  are  to 
be  made  by  you  for  the  display  of  the  best  ones  both  in  the  shop 
and  class  rooms. 


COURSES  OF   STUDY. 


For  many  classes  these  courses  will  be  found  too  long;  in 
some  cases  teachers  will  realize  that  repetition  in  certain  processes 
is  unnecessary  and  that,  therefore,  several  models  may  be  omitted. 
There  are  models  in  each  course  which  would  interest  pupils  in 
one  part  of  the  city,  but  would  be  of  no  value  in  another. 

Teachers  are  therefore  directed  to  use  care  and  judgment  in 
following  the  outlined  courses.  The  boys'  ingenuity  to  plan  and 
devise  new  forms  of  apparatus  or  ornamentation  should  be  stimu- 
lated and  encouraged.  The  choice  of  alternative  exercises  is  to 
be  made  by  the  teacher. 

FOUR  YEAR  COURSE. 

Beginning  in  Fifth  Grade. 

1.  Ruler  No.  i,  p.  19. 

2.  Pencil  Sharpener  No.  i,  p.  18. 

3.  Twine  Winder  No.   i,  p.  16,  or  Paper  Folder,  p.  22. 

4.  Letter  Opener  No.  i,  p.  25,  or  Pen  Holder,  p.  43. 

5.  Round  Mat,  p.  31,  or  Bread  Cutting  Board,  p.  35. 

6.  Mat  No.  I,  p.  23,  or  Ring  Toss,  p.  24. 

7.  Box  Kite  (if  in  season)  p.  34,  or  Pencil  Box  No.  4,  p.  107. 

8.  Key   Rack,    p.    38,   or   Paper    Knife,  p.  41,    or  Envelope 

Case,  p.  36. 

9.  Picture  Frame,  p.  71. 

10.  Coat  Hanger,   p.  :^S. 

11.  Nail  Box  No.  i,  p.  49,  or  Match  Safe  No.  4,  p.  28. 

12.  Whisk  Broom   Holder   No.  i,  p.  51,  or  Comb  and  Brush 

Pocket  No.  2,  p.  55. 

13.  Book  Rack  No.  i,  p.  57,  or  Pedestal  No.  2,  p.  133. 

14.  Bracket  Shelf,  p.  59,  or  Bootjack,  p.  73. 

15.  Tipcat  and  Bat,  p.  63,  or  Shinny-stick  and  Block,  p.  39. 

16.  Window   Box  (For  the   School,   not  to  be   given  to  the 

pupil),  p.  131. 

17.  Stamp  Box,  p.  69,  or  Book  Rack  No.  2,  p.  58. 


14 

1 8.  Towel  Roller,  p.  91. 

19.  Sled,    p.    98    or    99,    or    Aquarium,    p.    84,    or    Drawing 

.  Board,  p.  78. 

20.  Pen  Tray,  p.  100,  or  Nature-study  Kit,  p.  131. 

21.  Picture  Frame,  p.  71,  or  Snow  Shovel,  p.  118. 

22.  Inlaid  Hat  Rack,  p.  8;^,  or  Umbrella  Stand,  p.  127. 

23.  Sugar  Scoop,  p.  no,  or  Match  Safe  No.  5,  p.  29. 

24.  Glove  Box,  p.  Ill,  or  Book-binding  Outfit.* 

25.  As  a  final  exercise  allow  each  pupil  to  select  some  model 

not  previously  made. 

THREE  YEAR  COURSE. 

Beginning  in  Sixth  Grade. 

1.  Ruler  No.  i,  p.  19. 

2.  Pencil  Sharpener  No.   i,  p.  18. 

3.  Twine  Winder  No.  i,  p.  16,  or  Paper  Folder,  p.  22. 

4.  Round  Mat,  p.  31,  or  Bread  Cutting  Board,  p.  35. 

5.  Mat  No.  I,  p.  23,  or  Ring  Toss,  p.  24. 

6.  Coat  Hanger,  p.  ;^S. 

7.  Nail  Box  No.  i,  p.  49,  or  Pencil  Box  No.  4,  p.  28. 

8.  Picture  Frame  (For  the  School,  not  to  be  given  to  the 

pupil),  p.  71. 

9.  Book  Rack  No.  i,  p.  57,  or  Waste  Paper   Basket,  p.   112 

e/  al. 
CO.   Salt  Box  No.  2,  p.  75,  or  Tipcat  and  Bat,  p.  63. 

11.  Whisk  Broom  Holder  No.  2,  p.  51,  or  Stamp  Box,  p.  69. 

12.  Towel  Roller,  p.   91. 

13.  Sled,  p.  98  or  99,  or  Drawing  Board,  p.  78. 

14.  Pen  Tray,  p.   100,  or  Nature-study  Kit,  p.  131. 

15.  Knife  Box,  p.  105,  or  Inlaid  Hat  Rack,  p.  87,. 

16.  Sugar  Scoop,  p.  no,  or  Book-binding  Outfit,*  or  Pedestal 

No.  I,  p.  56. 

17.  As  a  final  exercise  allow  the   class  to  select  some  one  of 

the  models  not  previously  made. 


*  See  chapter  on  Book  Mending. 


IT) 

TWO  YEAR  COURSE. 

Beginning  in  Seventh  Grade. 

1.  Ruler  No.  2,  p.   19. 

2.  Mat  No.  I,  p.  23,  or  Bread  Cutting  Board,  p.  35. 

3.  Coat  Hanger,  p.  38,  or  Pen  Holder,  p.  43. 

4.  Envelope  Case,  p.  36,  or  Foot  Stool  No.  i,  p.  102. 

5.  Stamp   Box,    p.  69,    or   Salt   Box    No.    i,   p.  74,  or  Book 

Rack  No.  2,  p.  58. 

6.  Picture  Frame,  p.  71,  or  Knife  Box,  p.  105. 

7.  Towel  Roller,  p.  91,  or  Nature-study  Kit,  p.  131. 

8.  Sled,  p.  98  or  99,  or  Aquarium,  p.  84,  or  Drawing  Board, 

p.  78. 

9.  Pen  Tray,  p.   100,  or  Book-binding  Outfit.* 

10.    Selected  by  the  teacher,  according  to   the  ability  of  the 
individual. 

ONE  YEAR  COURSE. 

Beginning  in  Eighth  Grade. 

1.  Ruler  No.  2,  p.  19. 

2.  Mat  No.  I,  p.  23,  or  Bread  Cutting  Board,  p.  35. 

3.  Envelope  Case,  p.  36,  or  Nail  Box  No.  i,  p.  49. 

4.  Book  Rack  No.  i  (oak),  p.  57,  or  Bracket  Shelf,  p.  59. 

5.  Picture  Frame  (For  the  School,  not  to  be  given  to  the 

pupil),  p.   71. 

6.  Knife   Box,    p.    105.     or    Stamp    Box,    p.    69,     or  Whisk 

Broom  Holder  No.  2,  p.  51,  or  Drawing  Board,  p.  78. 

7.  Selected  by  the  teacher,  according  to  the  ability  of  the 

individual. 


See  chapter  on  Book  Mending. 


IG 


PLANT  LHBEL  No.  J  PLANT  LABEL  Na2. 


-:'lr^ 


ft  \i  ^"^M  ilu 


TWINE  WINDEN   No. 2. 


£v/tHS     JJCS 


TWINE  "WINDER  No.  1 


% 


ic. 


T 
7 


^i' 


^ci ^1 


^^S^_/roj^^J^ 


PLANT  LABEL,   No.  i   or  No.  2. 


Prepare  stock  ^"  or  i^e"  x 


7",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 


One  edge  is  to  be  made  straight  and  smooth  by  the  teacher. 
Pupils  will  square  one  end  with  knife  (cross  whittling).     To 

be  tested  with  trysquare. 
Measure  length  and  square  around  with  knife. 
Whittle  to  knife  line  and  test  with  trysquare. 
Gauge  width  and  cut  to  line.      (Straight  whittling.) 
Measure  and  mark  small  end  with  pencil  and  rule. 
Whittle  to  oblique  lines.     (Oblique  whittling.) 
Clean  all  over  with  No.  O  sandpaper  on  a  block. 
No  Drawing. 

TWINE  WINDER  No.  i. 

Prepare  stock  h"  x  4"  x  5",   Basswood  (grain   running  long 
way),  with  tried  edge. 
I.    Whittle  one  end   square  to  the  tried  edge  (holding  piece  in 
hand  and  cutting  straight  across). 


17 

2.  Measure   length    (4}4")  from   this   finished    end    and    square 

across  with  knife  line. 

3.  Whittle  this  end  square  to  tried  edge. 

4.  Measure  off  widths  (3^")  and  whittle  to  line.      (Be  careful  to 

note  direction  of  grain  and  whittle  accordingly.) 

5.  Mark  the  outline  as  per  drawing. 

6.  Start    cutting   out    the  ends,   working    down  in    center  until 

reaching  straight   line  at   bottom,  then   cut   the   curves, 
working  from  bottom  up,  thus  working  with  the  grain. 

7.  To  cut  out  curves   in  sides   first  cut  V  in  center  to  prevent 

splitting,  then  work  from  both  ends  toward  the  center. 

8.  Finish  all  over  with  No.  O  sandpaper.     No  shellac  or  varnish 

used. 

TWINE  WINDER  No.    2. 

Stock,  /a"  or  i%"  x  4}^"  x  5",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 

1.  Draw  a  pencil  line  through  center  of  board  in  direction  of 

grain. 

2.  Draw  line  at  right  angles  to  above  at  its  center. 

3.  Measure  and  mark  curves. 

4.  Saw  nearly  to  lines  with  coping-saw. 

5.  Finish  with  half-round  file  and  sandpaper. 
No  Drawing. 


IS 


PENCIL  ^mnPENEHNai.  PENCIL  ^HARPENEFi  No2.  PENCIL  ^HAHPENEn  No.3. 


i'  Bit. 


m.i 


/?  WE^»^s  Urs. 


PENCIL  SHARPENERS. 


II. 


■Stock,  )4"  or  ,''«"  X  2"  X  5",  s.  2  s.,  Bass,  prepared  by  teacher. 

One  edge  to  be  made  straight  and  smooth  by  teacher. 

Square  one  end.     (Cross-whittling.) 

Measure  length  and  square  that  end. 

Gauge  width  and  cut  to  line.      (Straight-whittling.) 

Mark  curve  with  drawing  compass. 

Cut  to  curve  with  knife.     (Curve-whittling.) 

Measure  and  mark  small  end  with  pencil  and  rule. 

Cut  to  oblique  lines.      (Oblique-whittling.) 

Locate  and  bore  hole. 

Give  pupil  a  small  piece  of  No.  O  sandpaper  from  which  he 
will  cut  the  disk  or  square  to  be  glued  on.  (Clean  all 
over  with  No.  O  sandpaper  on  block  before  gluing.) 

Use  wooden  hand- screw  and  a  piece  of  waste  wood  in  gluing 
on  sandpaper. 

No  Drawing. 


m 


HULEH    No. J. 


J         2         3         ^         J         6 


i3^' 


HULEH   Mo.  8. 


1  1 

1  1 

1  1 

1  i 

1  1 

1   1 

1  1 

\  1 

1  1 

1  1 

Tiy 

I. 

^ 

J 

P 

,3 

^ 

A 

•4 

i 

^  1 

iiin 

1  1 

1  1 

1  1 

1  1 

s 

1 

^ 

S  q 

y 

0       y 

/       i\ 

?^                                                   1 

7""[i 

j.._Q 


/?  Wi:»^/'/fs.i^^^- 


RULER  No.    I. 

Stock,  i%"  X  i)^"  X  7^",  s.  2  s.,   Bass,  prepared  by  teacher. 

1.  Plane  working  edge. 

2.  Square  line  across  face  about  y^"  from  end. 

3.  Saw  off  with  backsaw,  being  careful  that  inside  edge  of  saw  is 

at  center  of  line. 

4.  Measure  length  and  square  line  across  face. 

5.  Same  as  3. 

6.  Measure  width  at  both  ends  and  draw  line  between  these  points. 

7.  Plane  to  width. 

8.  Sandpaper  clean. 

9.  For  lines  parallel  to  edge,  measure  distance  at  each   end  and 

draw  lines  with  sharp  pencil.      For  cross  lines,   measure 
carefully  and  draw  lines  using  pencil  and  trysquare. 


RULER  No.    2. 

Stock,  i''  X  i>^"  X  i2>^",  Rough  Pine. 

1.  Plane  working  face  and  working  edge. 

2.  Gauge  the  parallel  lines  shown  on  drawing  %"  apart. 

3.  If  gauge  lines  are  defective,  replane  working  face  and  gauge 

again. 


20 

Beginning  about   }^"   from   end   mark   the  lines  for  inches, 

using  trysquare  and  knife. 
Mark  the  half  inch  divisions. 
Mark  the  quarter  inch  divisions. 

If  all  is  correct,  plane  the  rough  edge  to  first  gauge  line. 
Gauge  the  thickness  on  edges  and  plane  the  reverse  side  to 

these  lines. 
Saw  to  length,  number  with  pencil  and  clean  with  sandpaper. 
The  lines  and  divisions  may  be  remarked  with  a  sharp  pencil 

before  the  ruler  is  shellaced. 


Note. — The  eighth  inch  divisions  should  only  be  attempted 
by  very  skillful  pupils. 


21 


MATCH  SCmTCHEH. 


\flwrMn\nrt., 


BmCKET  ^HELF. 


COHNEH  BHACKET 

6' 


Ma.U    two   b,'0^iitt» 
One    e'    uricfe 
0/16    af^'  utidt,. 


MATCH  SCRATCHER. 

Stock,  }i"  or  h"  X  4"  x  5",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 

Draw  center  line  and  lay  off  curves  and  diagonal  top  lines. 

Cut  to  curves  and  straight  lines  with  knife. 

Glue  on  a  square  piece  of  No.  O  sandpaper. 

Cut  to  curve  when  dry. 

Bore  hole. 

Finish  with  sandpaper  on  block. 

No  Drawing. 


BRACKET  SHELF. 

Stock  for  Top,  h"  x  6}^"  x  3^",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 
Stock  for  Brace,  h"  x  3^"  x  5  ",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 
Stock  for  Back,  h"  x  6^"  x  5  ",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 
Make  each  part  a  separate  exercise. 

Use  pencil,  rule,  compass,  coping-saw  and  half-round  file. 
When  the  three  parts  are  correctly  finished  and  cleaned  with 
sandpaper,  fasten  back  and  brace  together  by  means  of  glue  and 


brads,  having  pupils  locate  and  start  the  brads  before  applying  the 
glue.  Give  particular  directions  to  apply  glue  very  sparingly  and 
have  all  superfluous  glue  cleaned  off  before  it  hardens. 

Locate  and  start  brads  in  top  and  fasten  with  glue  to  back 
and  brace. 

No  Drawing. 


CORNER  BRACKET. 


Stock  for  Top, 


X  7"  X  7' 


S.    2    S. 


Bass. 


Stock  for  Braces,  h"  x  7"  x  9",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 

Same  steps,  tools  and  directions  as  for  Bracket  Shelf. 

No  Drawing. 


PAPEB   FOLDER. 

il> 

\    s'J            "ISO         p 

i^ 

L       '     '" 

kr 

3 

CLOTHED   PIN. 


a 


JiL   E.  GciQc  Ucs. 


•23 


MAT  No. 


Stock,  i"  X  8"  X  8",  Rough  Pine. 

First  have  each  pupil  saw  off  a  piece  8"  long,  then  plane  and 
finish  according  to  directions.  A  set  of  models  such  as  are  shown 
on  page  66  for  the  sandpaper  block  are  a  great  help  in  directing 
this  work  if  it  is  used  as  a  first  planing  exercise  or  if  given  as  an 
extra.  This  method  of  showing  processes  is  not  to  be  carried  be- 
yond the  first  year's  work. 

A  blue  print  of  the  following  directions  may  be  placed  before 
the  pupil,  or  they  may  be  printed  on  the  blackboard. 

1.  Plane  the  working /<3t^^  and  mark  it  X. 

2.  Plane  the  working  edge  and  mark  it  II. 

3.  Chamfer  a  corner  [ask  teacher  which  one.] 


24 

4.  Plane  this  end  square  with  working /^<r^  and  working  edge. 

5.  Measure  the  length  from  this  planed  end. 

6.  Square  across  with  knife-line, 

7.  Saw  off  end]ws\  beyond  the  knife-line. 

8.  Chamfer  a  corner  opposite  tried  edge  and   plane   this   end  to 

knife-line. 

9.  Gauge  the  width. 

10.  Plane  the  rough  edge  to  gauge-line. 

11.  Gauge  the  thickness  on  edges  and  ends. 

12.  Plane  the  j-oughface  to  gauge-lines. 
Drawing  as  shown. 

Note. — Be  sure  that  the  pupils  thoroughly  understand  the 
meaning  and  the  distinction  between  the  words  which  are  printed 
in  italics. 


/? .  W.  E y/tw s    Bii^ 


2J^i  i>fMTt.Couct\i<jhL 


MAT  Nc.  a. 


A  W  ErA^s  Ue* 


MAT  No.    2. 

Stock,    }i"  or  i^e"  X  6%"  X 
(>%",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 

1.  Plane     edge     and     end 

square,  using  shooting- 
board. 

2.  Mark    five    inch  square, 

with  knife-lines. 

3.  Lay  off  curves,  and  saw 

with  coping-saw. 

4.  Finish  to  lines  with  knife. 

5.  Design  a  background  for 

punching, 

6.  Lay  off  design,  cut  lines 

with  knife,    and    clean 
before  punching. 
No  Drawing. 


LETTEB    OPEN  EH  No.  /. 


/i  W Evf>Na.Dc&. 


ENVELOPE  OPENER  No.  i. 

Stock,  i=*6"  X  i}{"  X  7/4",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 

1.  Draw  center  line  and  lay  off  curves  at  each  end  with  pencil 

and  compass. 

2.  Mark  design  for  chip-carving  as  shown. 

3.  Carve  handle. 

4.  Whittle  to  lines  and  form  the  blade  with  knife. 

5.  Sandpaper  to  clean. 
No  Drawing. 


26 


TOOTH    BFIU2H   RACK 


Ev»na  Bel 


yj.n  H,»>,ev     Se^. 


P/N  CUSHION  AND  2CI520f(S  mCH. 


EvMNi  Del 


H   J   Gre««  Bes. 


27 


MATCH  ^RFE  No.  I 


■^ 


■V-..U--"' 


^-^¥ H 


54.- 


^yiitra  UcWy 


m  ^r.fiatf,  r^f.g, 


MATCH  2RFE  no.Z 


i^u/^ .    n,, 


28 


*     MATCH  BOX  No.S. 


Tkt  A.cit,\t"  in,  cliutr*tXtf  telle  iiartA  titrou^U  tht. 
iiotii  wkiic  in  t At' roug fv,  uUc1\  i/tente  iejinisheti 
Usiitcf    '/ictc  at  a.   iaaia    Co  meaaufC  J norv. 


AWF »  n./ 


Wta  V  U&u  (tj(    Btaif  tiCft 


29 
MATCH  SAFE  No.  2. 
Stock,  ji"  Whitewood  and  }i"  Bass. 

The  directions  given  for  Salt  Box  No.  i  will  apply  to  this  ex- 
ercise.     Decorate  by  background  punching,   chip-carving    or  by 
inlaying  with  colored  veneer. 
Detail  Drawing. 

MATCH  BOX   No.  3. 

Stock,  (several  pieces  of  either  hard  or  soft  wood  may  be 
used,  built  up  either  vertically,  horizontally  or  radially.) 

The  teacher  will  give  such  directions  as  are  necessary  to  per- 
form the  work  in  accordance  with  the  number  and  shape  of  pieces 
used. 

Detail  Drawing. 


MRTCH  ^AFE  no.  6 


~if:n,_,_ 


'         To   he.   huilt  u/s   e/  cliJfe.t^taL 
'  ^ineU    0/  urood. 


r,   Yfifriiiint,  nuigmr, 


30 


MATCH  2RFE  No.  6. 


(^ritffa  lit 


^I'^^-^W-^IH      ^— /i-— ^^ 


/\^  <^,fifl.gf,  flpa, 


ROUND    MAT. 


The  most  suitable  form  of  knife  for  cardboard  work  and  for 
outlining  in  punching  work  is  shown  above.  It  is  called  a  chip- 
carving  knife  and  has  but  one  cutting  edge,  the  slanting  end. 


31 


HOUND    M/iT. 


(1  VV  Trflrrfi  <7-(.i 


ROUND  MAT. 

(An  exercise  in  planing  and  designing.) 

Stock,  i"  X  8"  X  8"  Rough  Pine. 

1.  Plane  the  piece  of  rough  lumber  to  the  size  %"  x  6"  x  6",  as 

directed  for  the  Bracket  Shelf  on  pages  59  to  61. 

2.  Find  center  of  board  by  drawing  the  diagonals  of  square. 

3.  Mark  curves  with  compass  and  construct  design. 

4.  Saw,  with  small  turning- saw,  nearly  to  outer  curve  and  finish 

with  flat  file  (draw  filing.) 

5.  Suggest  that  the  pupils  plan  a  design  to  ornament  the  mat, 

such  as  a  leaf,  a  star,  or  a  trefoil.  Allow  them  to  make 
sketches  on  paper,  showing  their  ideas,  before  transfer- 
ring the  design  to  the  wood.  Cut  with  the  knife  a  deep 
line  around  the  inner  circle  and  also  around  the  design, 
then  stamp  the  background  with  a  carver's  punch.  The 
more  advanced  pupils  may  profitably  vary  the  shape  of 
the  mat,  using  their  own  designs.  This  class  of  orna- 
mentation, called  ''diaper  carving,"  is  very  effective,  and 


32 

is  applicable  to  almost  every  kind  of  woodwork.  Carv- 
ing punches  can  be  made  by  filing  the  head  of  a  large 
nail  with  a  triangular  file.  (Particular  attention  should 
be  given  to  even  punching  and  to  correct  handling  of 
the  hammer.) 
6.  Clean  with  No.  O  sandpaper. 
No  Drawing. 

BLOTTER. 

Stock,  A"  X  31^"  X  5%",  s.  2  s.,  Bass,  and  i"  length  of  ^" 
Dowel-rod. 

i.  Plane  one  edge  and  one  end,  testing  with  trysquare. 

2.  Gauge  and  plane  width. 

3.  Measure  and  mark  length  with  knife  and  plane  to  knife  line. 

4.  Mark  border  line  with  gauge  and  knife. 

5.  Draw  a  design  with    pencil   and   follow  with   knife.     Punch 

background.  (The  ornament  is  to  be  original  with  the 
pupil.) 

6.  Round  and  smooth  the  end  of  the  handle  with  knife.      Drill 

and  countersink  hole,  and  screw  together.  (A  blotter  is 
to  be  glued  to  the  base.) 

Note. — The  smoothing  plane  is  to  be  used  in  this  exercise. 
Pupils  are  to  be  taught  to  take  apart  and  put  together  and  to  whet 
the  plane  blades.  The  grinding  will  be  done  by  the  teacher.  The 
design  shown  for  ornamentation  is  only  suggestive,  as  are  nearly 
all  those  shown  hereafter.  Teachers  will  vary  the  designs  as 
seems  best,  and  where  possible  make  use  of  the  ideas  of  the  child- 
ren. Paper  templates  may  be  used  for  duplication  in  ornamental 
designs. 

No  Drawing. 

PEN  RACK  No.  i. 
Stock,  T^e"  X  2^"  X  10",  s.  2  s.,  Bass. 

1.  Plane  edges  parallel  and  to  required  width. 

2.  Saw  off  a  piece  6^"  long  and  gauge  center  line. 

3.  Point  ends  with  knife ;  lay  off  design  and  carve. 

4.  Mark  a  circle  on  the  extra  piece  and  plane  ends  to  proper 

distance  from  curve  and  square  with  edges. 

5.  -Drill  a   small  hole  near  edge   of  the  circle,  insert  blade  of 

coping-saw,  and  cut  to  line.  Finish  with  half-round  file 
and  saw  apart  with  back-saw. 

6.  Clean,  and  fasten  together  with  glue  and  brads. 
No  Drawing. 


33 


PEN  H^CK. 


/?  WFvy^A/s   DrL. 


PEN  mCK  No.2. 

4' H* 


Al  E.Gaqt  Dei. 


BOX  Kite. 


^     O/    III 


?/-M^  I^Jj^ 


/7i 


—  /7 
/! 


/?>/■£  y/9A^   -P.c£ 


/?.  7*.  7t'o^)i3o»    i^es. 


BOX  KITE. 

Do  not  fasten  the  cross  sticks  of  the  box  kite,  but  leave  them 
so  that  by  removing  them  the  kite  may  be  rolled  into  a  compact 
bundle. 

Twine  for  making  the  kite  and  bridle,  as  shown,  will  be 
furnished.      No  twine  for  flying  the  kite  is  to  be  supplied. 

No  Drawing. 


pAMS. 


>^.£.G/\0£- 


35 


BREHD    CUTTING  BORHD. 


1^' 


4 


r 


-3f 


I 

I      ^ 

\ 


■3f- 


\fi\(i^wn  S'^" 


J:  G.Wtnc/teti    JJes 


BREAD  CUTTING  BOARD. 

Stock,  i"  X  8"  X  15",  Rough  Pine. 

For  directions  see  Mat  No.  i  on  page  23  and  Shelf  Models  on 
page  59- 

No  Drawing. 


FANS. 

These  fans  are  to  be  made  of  ji"  basswood,  fastened  into 
handles  of  oak  about  yi"  square.  The  handles  are  slotted  to  re- 
•ceive  the  fans.  This  exercise  gives  opportunity  for  design  in 
shape  and  ornamentation  which  may  be  carved,  stamped  or  colored. 


36 


ENVELOPE   CH^E. 


J     L 


Y^/^ 

"< 

Busc 

\^\/ 

5cu/i  Full  ^t^t.. 


M  IV  r...^  n,L. 


ENVELOPE  CASE. 

Stock,  h"  Basswood,  or  i^"  Whitewood. 

An  exercise  in  the  use  of  the  smoothing-plane  on  edges  and 
ends.     Also  an  exercise  in  chip-carving. 

1.  Plane  pieces  to  size,  using  the  shooting-board. 

2.  Carve  the  base   as  shown,  and  ornament  the  front  panel  as 

desired.  (An  opportunity  is  here  given  for  very  great 
freedom  of  expression  as  the  ornamentation  may  be 
either  chip-carving,  diaper  carving,  low  relief,  color 
work  or  pyrography.) 

3.  Clean  and  fasten  together  with  glue  and  brads,   locating  the 

brads  by  means  of  a  very  light  gauge  line,  3^2"  from  edge^ 
and  measuring  the  distances  apart. 

4.  Finish  with  sandpaper  and  shellac. 
Drawing  as  shown. 

Note. — Should  the  Envelope  Case  be  selected  as  a  class 
exercise  the  front  panel  is  to  be  decorated  with  an  original  design 
by  the  pupil.  Any  of  the  methods  mentioned  in  Direction  2  may 
be  used  in  its  execution. 


PUZZLE  BLOCKS. 


37 


r 


vf 


/J  W  £v/</fS  -Pi 


AL   £   Gage  J/eSiqjui 


i  Ironing 

^   p       cgOARD. 

i 


(gREAD 

gOARD.        EtJ 


\b  O^G^ 


38 


KEY  RACK. 


8' 


COAT  HRNGEH 


A\{^FAt«\  an 


KEY  RACK. 

Stock,  }i"  X  3>^"  X  81^"  Whitewood,   and  iV  x  2}^"  x  6>^" 
Cherry. 

1.  Plane  one  edge,  gauge  width  and  center  line  (whitewood). 

2.  Plane  to  width. 

3.  Mark  curves  at  ends  and  square  the  shoulders  with  knife  lines 

on  both  face  and  edge. 

4.  Saw  curves  with  turning-saw  and  saw  shoulders  with  back-saw. 

5.  Pare  vertically  with  chisel,   taking  light  cuts   to   lines.     Test 

with  try-square. 

6.  Finish  with  file,  but  do  not  allow  a  file  to  be  used  unless  the 

work  has  been  well  done  with  a  sharp  chisel. 

7.  Clean  the  face  with  smoothing-plane. 

8.  Make  front  plate  using  turning-saw  and  file  for  curves. 

9.  Carve  as  shown. 

JO.    Glue  in  place  and  locate  position  of  hooks. 


39 


11.  Clean  and  finish  with  shellac. 

12.  Screw  the  hooks  in  place. 

Note. — Particular  care  should  be  used  in  gluing  that  the 
superfluous  glue,  which  is  pressed  out  from  between  the  pieces,  is 
at  once  removed,  and  that  the  clamps  are  so  adjusted  as  not  to 
mar  the  work. 

No  Drawing. 

COAT  HANGER. 

6j4'\  Rough  Pine. 


Stock,  i"  X  4"  X 

Plane  all  over  to  ]/s"  x  3;^"  x  16". 

Mark  curves  on  ends  with  compass. 

Mark  curves  on  sides  free-hand  or  with  template  which  may- 
be made  of  thin  basswood. 

Saw  nearly  to  curves  with  turning-saw  and  finish  with 
spokeshave. 

Finish  with  sandpaper,  but  do  not  use  a  file. 

6.  Fit  with  large  screw  hook  to  serve  as  a  hanger. 

7.  Shellac. 

Note. — This  is  principally  an  exercise  in  modeling  with  the 
spokeshave,  therefore  all  irregularities  which  can  be  felt  with  the 
hand,  are  to  be  removed  with  that  tool.  Sandpaper  is  to  be  used 
on/y  for  cleaning. 

No  Drawing. 


5- 


CHIMNEY  2TICK  AND  BLOCK. 

1 


^  x/'Secr.o 


^CTwa 


^gSSmmmiummim^ 


^^f- 

->i- 

/?  WiTi'/i/vs  H/L 


GPDrutcA  Jr.  Dta. 


40 


INK  2TRND. 


/IWfltttHtnfi,  fIfMgn  of  Prate  Tft, 


PHOTO  GRRPH  PRAM 


INK  STAND   No.    2. 

Stock,  ^"  Whitewood  or  y^"  Gum  and  y^"  Maple  or  ^q" 
Cherry. 

An  exercise  in  the  use  of  the  chisel  and  plane  and  in  chip- 
carving.  The  thin  top  piece  may  be  built  up  from  strips  of 
various  colors. 

No  Drawing. 


PHOTOGRAPH  FRAME. 

Stock,  h"  Bass  or  Cherry. 

Use  compass,  rule,  file  and  knife  or  coping-saw. 

No  Drawing. 


41 


PAPER  KNIFE    7 


Sca^<  FuK  3<j<^ 


P/lPEFl  KNIFE 'Z. 


PAPER  KNIFE  No.    i. 

Stock,  %"  X  iY%"  X  ii>^",  s.  2  s.,  Cherry. 

1.  Plane  to  required  width. 

2.  Draw  center  line  lightly  with  pencil. 

3.  Lay  off  curves  at  ends  and  at  juncture  of  handle  and  blade. 

4.  Cut  outline  with  coping-saw  and  smooth  with  file. 

5.  Form  blade   with   knife,    spokeshave  and   file,  working   to   a 

center  line  on  the  edge. 

6.  Mark  design  in  handle  and  carve. 

7.  Clean   thoroughly   and   finish  with   three   very  thin  coats  of 

•    shellac. 


PAPER  KNIFE  No.   2. 

Stock,  same  as  above. 

Directions  same  as  for  Paper  Knife  No.  1. 

No  Drawings. 


42 


P/iPEB   KNIFE '^ 


Ai  'ji»<i. 


I^^^^^^JS^ 


yl'rM 


A'  — — ^ 


T" 


PAPF.Fl,     k'NfFF    '4. 


T=^ 


^ccU  Full  3^j 


^r   -^ 


Scate   Full  Scjt,. 


A  W  i:,,«^    DcL 


PAPEH  HNIPL.  NO.  6. 


IKKMl 


lag^^^i 


«fHMH^ 


/?  w  p....  n,i 


fi  T  Rakiinaa  Sttmntr, 


43 


KNIFE  AMU  FORK  HE^T. 


End  Vi€v  Stciicn  'AW 


Sca.U  FuU  Sije. 


/I  r  (i»y,    nr»xj„,^ 


PEN-HOLUEn. 


rf 


<-4- 


<A^ 


7i' 


JScu/c  Futi  Stjf^. 


i1  W,£\iiiis  Mr{< 


Mr  itrtim  JiiMtiir 


KNIFE  AND  FORK  REST. 
Stock,  ^"  X  i"  X  6%",  s.  2  s.,  Gum. 

1.  Plane  stock  to  yi"  x  }i". 

2.  Draw  diagonals  at  each  end  and  square  around  with  knife  ^" 

from  each  end. 

3.  Square  around  ^"  from  each  end  and  also  ]/%"  from  each  end. 

4.  Saw  off  just  beyond  the  ^"  line  and  block-plane  carefully  to 

line,  testing  with  trysquare. 

5.  Point  ends  with  1"  chisel. 

6.  Gauge  yi"  from  edge  on  flat  end  and  chisel  chamfer. 

7.  Find  center  and  bore  ^"  holes  for  cross  bar. 

8.  Plane  the  remaining  piece  to  a  true  octagon  and  after  inspec- 

tion, plane  to  a  y^,"  cylinder. 

9.  Fit  and  glue  into  end  pieces. 

10.  Sandpaper  cylindrical  part. 

11.  Finish  with  shellac. 

Note. — This  exercise  may  be  made  from  any  close  grained 
hard  wood.  The  cross  bar  may  be  made  from  a  wood  contrasting 
in  color  with  that  of  the  ends. 

General  Drawing  without  shading. 


44 


PEN  HOLDER. 


Stock,  ^2"  X  ^"  X  9",  s.  2  s.,  Red  Cedar,  or  Spanish  Cedar. 

1.  Plane  stock  to  )^"  x  >^". 

2.  Mark  circles  at  ends  and  bore  hole  for  peg. 

3.  Cut  off  i)^"  and  form  peg  to  tightly  fit  hole  except   at   outer 

end  where  it  should  be  slightly  smaller  to  admit  pen. 

4.  Glue  in  peg. 

5.  Whittle  to  shape. 
No  Drawing. 


SHOPPING  LIST. 

Designed  to  hold  cards  i>^"  x  2^",  which  can  be  cut  from 
heavy  paper  or  thick  folding  board,  one  box  to  be  used  for  blank 


45 


\i'r-  '^' 


15 


4^tif  i"^^Ft"it+^V- 


*\    0-D6    ^Sioe. 


S^CK 


SHOPPING  LIST. 

cards,  the  other  for  shopping  memoranda.      If  made   from   card- 
board the  boxes  could  have  verses  written  on: 

First  Box: 
Don't  forget  what  you  want  down  town, 
But  take  the  pencil  and  write  it  down. 

Second  Box: 
Put  these  cards  in  any  old  nook, 
Or  empty  space  in  your  pocket  book. 

Stock,    White   Holly,    ys"   thick  for  back,   and  iV  thick  for 
boxes. 

Make  the  back  as  shown,   drawing  the  elliptical  curves  free 


46 


hand.      Saw  with  coping-saw  and  smooth  with  file;  bore 


hole 


for  hanging;  carve  and  fit  with  small  brass  screw  hook  for  pencil. 
Lay  off  the  boxes  as  shown,  measuring  for  tenons  at  each  end  and 
drawing  one  line  of  all  the  tenons  without  removing  rule.  Cut 
pieces  apart  and  form  tenons  on  each  piece  with  chisel.  Make 
and  fit  bottoms  to  go  inside  of  boxes.  Clean  all  pieces  with  No. 
OO  sandpaper,  glue  boxes  together  and  fasten  with  glue  to  back. 


A  WHISTLE. 


DxsjiiilofA.E.OAac 


Stock,  Pine,  ^"  x  ^"  x  4^",  s.  2  s.,  and  a  short  length  of 
}4"  dowel  rod. 

Plane  the  stick  to  ^"  square.  Whittle  to  the  length  shown 
in  the  drawing.  Bore  the  j^"  hole  about  31^"  deep.  Cut  off  a 
piece  of  the  dowel  rod  i}("  long.  Plane  a  flat  side  on  this  plug 
and  glue  it  into  the  hole  you  have  bored.  When  the  glue  is  dry 
whittle  the  notch  and  the  bevel. 


47 


SKETCHING   ER^EL 


H  tT  Qree)x    Ilea- 


ER5EL  No.  2. 


Alt /liecefi  jf"  square. 


'  h- 

-Ai^ 

if 

w 

— L 

L-i 

J 

A.W Ev/<NZ  Del. 


AJE.GaCF.  S)ftig 


48 


KITE. 


A^^P..^,     72^. 1  7>./ 


CA5EL 


CONYNE  HITl 


K 

^ 

rX^ 

^..-^^ 

fi 

\ 

H 

£  _ 

r 

3 

- 

A 

^        . 

1 

\ 

5t 1— i  //ttini    Slices    SliCulct   ill    nciltfl  €.  Id  g/Hfci    ic 

^  >i   i.Jxt   t/xS      I    I     (B)  at.cia  and  Ju,^t/.tr  s,cu-ecl  ij, fiieeei  of  <:n,A.sUtd 
—  \  Bvtr-  entire  jc,itt(ri^4)    rts>"'*»  ^^S  aAcu,  jaciifioi    t/ 


J  ///{<     //.i 


3  1 


^ 


>«fGG; 


ZQ' 


ace  cciri'td  wilA    UulU  eUfk,  lift 
./  A/vc//e  Uiii  lJ  d.ifanct  //•««. 


/,/€  ZX. 


}C 


rtur  /■  mna  4  (^  T.  flt^mafift  flt/i 


JIttt    itUwiO.    Ti-f,  •$    hntt   .» 
3otA   aide*    must  jjt  e<acC/if    o.Ll,i. 


To  make  a  kite  which  will  fold  flat  use  string  in  place  of  sticks  A. 


49 


NAIL  BOX  V 


^ccte    Naif    ^iji 


f 

J 

MAIL  BOX  "Z. 


^^ 


•f- 


H' 


3i' 


3c ate    FuU  3,jc 


IT 


ir^ 


a'—* 


i' 


NAIL  BOX   xNo.    I. 

Stock,  }^",  s.  2  s.,  Pine. 

1.  Plane  one  piece  to  the  required  width  for  the  four  sides. 

2.  Plane  one  end  on  shooting-board. 

3.  Measure  length  for  one  side  piece  and  square  all  around  with 

knife. 

4.  Saw  off  with  back-saw   and  plane   the    end    to    knife-lines  on 

shooting-board.     . 

5.  Proceed  as  above  for  each  side. 

6.  Measure  and  mark  for  brads  as  directed  in  Envelope  Case. 

7.  Nail  and  glue  together. 

8.  Plane  and  fit  bottom. 

9.  Clean  all  over  and  shellac. 

Note. — Teach  use  of  nail-set. 

Have  inner  surface  cleaned  before  fitting  together. 

General  Drawing  as  shown. 


50 


NAIL  BOX  No.    2. 

Stock,  }4",  s.  2  s.,  Pine. 

Plane  sides  and  ends  to  size,  as  for  Nail  Box  No.  i. 

Mark  out  gains  with  knife  lines  and  gauge. 

Saw  with  back-saw  exactly  to  knife  lines  so  that  no   chiseling 

will  be  required  on  sides  of  gains. 
Chisel  gains  with  34"  chisel. 

Fit  and  glue  together,  after  cleaning  inner  surfaces. 
Prepare  bottom  and  nail  and  glue  to  frame. 
Clean  with  the  smoothing-plane  and  sandpaper. 
Shellac. 
General  Drawing  as  shown. 


A   SANDPAPER  FILE. 


•^■I-E 


ef 


anD^ 


-i^. 


crliX^ 


Stock,  a  pine  stick  lo"  long  by  i"  square. 

Whittle  the  stick  to  the  shape  shown  in  the  drawing.  Split 
the  blade  as  shown,  using  the  rip-saw. 

Now  cut  a  piece  of  sandpaper  to  the  size  and  shape  shown, 
and  fold  it  around  the  file  so  that  the  edges  are  locked  in  the 
saw-kerf. 

This  exercise  produces  a  most  useful  tool  for  finishing  hollows 
and  rounds. 


51 


WHI2K  BROOM  HOLLER,  no.  J. 


-I-^M- 


-^i 


li  ^ 


/i\^?i  afiir  Iff 


At    F.(l..y    77.. .J...- 


WHISK  BROOM    HOLDER  No.    i. 
Stock,  ^",  Whitewood. 

General  directions  for  planing  dressed  lumber. 
General  Drawing. 


/  -1-  Vi-ir      j^ou)^f^ 


Al    E    Gage  D*i 


aJBrockman    Dei. 


See  directions  for  Salt  Box  No.   i. 


CRUMB  TRAY. 


53 


CRUMB  TRAY. 


Stock,  light  colored  Hard  Wood  for  base  and  top,  gum  or 
other  dark  wood  for  back. 

Mark  and  cut  out  the  bottom  and  top  pieces  as  shown  in  the 
working  drawing,  using  the  coping-saw  and  file.  Plane  the  back 
piece  to  the  required  bevel  and  mark  and  cut  the  concave  curve. 
Then  fasten  the  three  pieces  together  with  glue  and  brads.  Saw 
the  back  to  the  same  shape  as  the  base  piece  and  finish  with  file 
and  sandpaper.  The  base  and  top  may  be  ornamented  with  diaper 
or  chip-carving.  A  chip-carving  border  may  be  worked  around 
the  back  piece.      Finish  with  shellac. 

No  Drawing. 


l>        '      '^ 


Jkg^M  JIm-^ 


^.L.DlCHIflSOJi.Bti. 


54 


I 


2    «^'«- 


"r« 

11,4 


'^^ 


NO] 


-.f 


5;  I 


*i>S 


x[^r 


1 

■  ~ 

ry^ 

IJA 

< 

^  -w 

t^ 

a 

IT 

... 

41^ 

^.L 

U      fi. 


* — \ —  -^  ~^ 


-J 


1 

s 

1 

1 

<*." 

^^  S  F 

.'J 

tn    0 

^' 

=  >< 

3.      S     htN 

S,>>M 

^d 

■w    «. 

1 

A^ 

1 

-^1:^ 


St. 


V 


^ 


.'^ 


s  :; 


(^  "ic 


<r-T 


^^zx 


COMB  andBHUSH  pocket  no.Z 


F^ 


7   ■^^'""^/'i?."'^  ''"^^^  ''"'"^ -V-'^}-^-'- 


'-^^ 


■lir 


f'HuH 

f—  3" 


zi' 


% 


X3 


^calc    Halj    JStje, 


(\Yi.r\m?'  Rtl 


IV...      P     W..  „r/»Y      /),..y..f^ 


COMB  AND  BRUSH   POCKET  No.    2. 

Stock,  %i"  and  ;f4;"  Whitewood. 

An   exercise   in   the  use   of   the    spokeshave   and   bevel,    also 
ornamentation  by  means  of  letters. 

1.  Make  back  piece  first,  then  front  and  sides. 

2.  Set  bevel  to  angle  of  side  pieces  and  use  in  planing  the  bevel 

edge  of  the  bottom  piece. 

3.  Fasten  together  with  glue  and  brads. 

4.  Shellac,  2  coats. 


Detail  Drawing. 


56 


letteh  hack. 


H --si 

it:r:::::::.;v::::::v::v:: 

\u 


T^M 


TOR 


^ 


''^^^ 


"^5e 


ffi^ffifiwi  a-ti 


^T^ 


LETTER   RACK. 

Stock,  1/1"  Hardwood. 

Construct   rack  according    to    drawing  and    either    carve    or 
punch  a  design  on  sides  and  front. 

This  model  should  be  highly  polished. 
No  Drawing. 


TOP. 

Stock,  i^«"  Basswood. 

Stock,  S/^"  Hardwood. 

Make  this  entirely  an  exercise  in  chiseling. 

No  Drawing. 


BOOK  HACK  sai 


J 

-1(0 

I, 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 

"-r 

5ta)n/j 

%    i 

^W^rf    f    *^'''^^ 

f< J8£'-- 

^ — /J 

r-!-rH 

/?  Lv  r>^..    /;.. 


-fi' 


Sti  fJuiLm  ^tatf»tr 


BOOK  RACK  No.    i. 
Stock,  J4"  X  51^"  X  30",    s.  2  s.,  Pine. 
Plane  to  width,  saving  the  long  strip  from  edge  for  making 

the  moulding. 
Plane  ends  square. 
Gauge  center  line  and  measure  2^"  from   ends   which   will 

give  center  for  curves. 
Mark  curves  and  saw  off. 

Finish  curves  with  chisel  and  file.      (See  Note.) 
Mark  design  as  shown  and  cut  the  outline  with  knife. 
Shellac  and  then  stamp  background   and   cut   stars   with    ^" 

chisel. 
Make  base  by  planing  the  curved  ends. 
Stamp  edges. 

Make  moulding;  glue  and  nail  together  and  finish  with  shellac. 
NoTK. — The  filing  should   be  done   in   the   direction   of  the 
curve  and  not  at  right  angles  to  the  face  of  board. 
Drawing  as  shown,  omitting  shading. 


58 


BOOK  fl/iCK  No2. 


^r 


1 


fl,W,Brtiaa  lirt 


R  ffrci^f  Utfittntr, 


BOOK  RACK   No.    2. 
Stock,  Oak  or  other  Hardwood. 

The  directions  for  this  are  practically  the  same  as  for  Book 
Rack  No.  I.  • 

Drawing  as  shown. 


BunK  a/icH  NO.  3. 


^jci 


i' 


-#'^ 


7StfM 


BRACKET   3 HELP. 


^caU  Naifjij 


dWl'Yff^i  UlA, 


BRACKET  SHELF. 

Stock,  i"  X  7"  X  20"  rough  Pine,  and  ^"  x  3^"  x  6^",  s.  2  s.,  Pine. 

First  have  pupils  saw  off  apiece  7"  long,  then  plane  and  finish 
the  top  of  shelf  according  to  directions.  A  set  of  models,  such  as 
are  shown  on  the  following  page,  are  a  great  help  in  directing  this 
work  if  it  is  used  as  a  first  planing  exercise  or  if  given  as  an  extra. 
This  method  of  showing  processes  is  not  to  be  carried  beyond  the 
first  year's  work.  The  shelf  may  be  made  with  the  chamfered 
edge  of  the  top  underneath  instead  of  as  in  the  drawing. 

A  blue  print  of  the  following  directions  may  be  placed  before 
the  pupil. 

1.  Plane  the  wov'kmg  face  and  mark  it  X. 

2.  Plane  the  working  edge  and  mark  it  II. 

3.  Chamfer  a  corner  [ask  teacher  which  one.] 

4.  Plane  this  end  square  with  \^oxY\wgface  and  working  edge. 

5.  Measure  the  length  from  this  planed  end. 

6.  Square  across  with  knife-line. 

7.  Saw  off  end  '^wiX.  beyond  the  knife-line. 

8.  Chamfer  a  corner  opposite  tried  edge  and  plane  this  end  to 

knife-line. 

9.  Gauge  the  loidth. 

10.  Plane  the  rough  edge  to  gauge-line. 

11.  Crauge  the  tJiickness  on  edges  and  ends. 

12.  Plane  the  roiigJi  face  to  gauge-lines. 
General  Drawing. 


CO 


SHELF  MODELS  hsdFBAKE  sheet  mj. 


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SHELF  MODELS  and  FHRME  ^heet  no.  2 

Use  rousk  pieces      /3' X  7' X  J  "  /'inc  Insert  f  dcwch    /f /o„j    ,h  Lotlc.».   of  euch   /ucco 


1. 

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9.  Gauge  widtU     edae   t,  gauge  (}')    ca  edges  and  mo -^ A  /ace    t 

onfaclQFn.n^        t /ne.  ^^\nds.  qaujel.neS 


■/.    Saurcd   off  i 
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8.    Clx^infreti-ittr-    ofi/ltsUt  ,  »    ,        i 

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hnife  Une.(.Sa,ual'e  wilk  The    aLo^e  di^ecliont    are  to  he  xurUUn 

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61 


SHELF  MODELS  and  FB/IME  sheet  m.  3. 


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l/ltncil    /i,.e  Jon  saufinq. 
JJj'aur  A'life  /I'le  en  i^/icsiie 

Side  a /so. 


/4  ^aur  off  cor-ntfa  tc  /^.  Gauge  light  lif  4'  "■'^'^'"^  1^-  (0  Pittne  eimm/treci  etfgtt  ieii^ 
ptncil  itne  andti/ajtc  edges  and  ends  for  cnatn  lejT'oFinu  eiaeej  f-ii'  ir-acifctr 
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^HELF  MODELS  anbFBRME  sheet  no.  4. 


Muht.    Curo  U^e.   r/i-ij     -^J'x  /£' 

Fer  tUe  disfltaif  of  models. 


6 


/irrcLii^eineiit  foy  the  disfitinif  of  inocleiA   o/v   /loarcls.     Staiiv    hoa.fcLs    uritltj  Some  claf/i  slam 


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Tipcat  is  a  game  known  and  enjoyed  by  nearly  all  city  boys. 
The  implements  for  playing  are  usually  made  by  the  boys  them- 
selves, and  make  very  appropriate  whittling  exercises. 


THE  CAT. 

Stock,  i}("  X  i^"  Gumwood. 
A  whittling  exercise. 

1.  Plane  to  i"  square  by  4%"  long. 

2.  Square  around  and  true  the  ends  with  the  knife  as  shown. 
Insist  that  both  ends   be   alike  and  accurately  made.     This 

being  a  toy  for  the  boys  games,  he   is  likely    to  hurry  and   slight 
his  work  ;   the  tendency  is  to  be  restrained. 
No  Drawing. 

THE  BAT. 

Stock,  ^"  Pine  or  Maple. 

If  made  of  pine,  only  the  knife,  rule  and  pencil  are  required. 
Maple  would  require  the  use  of  the  spokeshave  and  turning-saw. 

Let  the  pupils  sketch  the  outline  on  the  side  of  the  board, 
locating  the  points  **a"  and  "b"  by  measurement.  The  curves 
should  be  sketched  free-hand.  Whittle  out  the  shape,  as  shown  in 
the  mechanical  drawing,    before   attempting   to  round   the  under 


64 


side.      (Note  the  method  used  to  show  all  details   of  the  shape  of 
this  object  in  one  drawing  by  means  of  sections  "&'  and  ''d"). 
No  Drawing. 


TIPCAT    BAT. 


THE  GAME  OF  '^  TIPCAT"  OR  ''PEG." 
The  English  game  of  ''Tipcat  "  is  played  as  follows: 
A  circle,  about  two  feet  in  diameter  is  drawn,  also  a  straight 
line  at  about  twelve  feet  from  the  circle.  The  players  draw  lots 
for  first  turn  with  the  cat.  The  first  player  then  stands  on  the  line 
and  tosses  the  cat  into  or  at  the  circle,  the  other  players  standing 
back  of  the  circle  facing  the  first  player.  If  the  cat  is  tossed  into 
the  ring,  player  No.  i  counts  lo  and  has  another  turn  to  toss,  con- 
tinuing tossing  and  counting  lo  until  he  misses.  When  he  finally 
misses  by  tossing  the  cat  outside  the  ring,  the  player  who  first  picks 
up  the  cat  has  the  privilege  of  "tipping  the  cat"  by  hitting  the 
pointed  end  with  a  bat  and  then  striking  the  cat  as  far  as  he  can. 
Player  No.  i  endeavors  to  catch  the  cat,  if  successful  he  adds  lo 
to  his  score.  Failure  to  catch  compels  player  No.  i  to  again  toss 
for  the  ring.  Player  No.  2,  the  one  who  "tipped  the  cat,"  counts 
10  for  each  length  of  the  bat  measured  from  the  cat  to  the  circle 
after  batting,  provided  the  cat  is  not  caught.  50  or  100  points 
may  constitute  a  game. 


(55 


The  American  game  of  "Peg  "  is  played  in  this  way: 
The  peg  is  marked  on  the  four  sides  respectively  (I),  (III, )(V), 
(X).  Players  lag  to  a  line  for  first  play.  First  player  lays  the  peg 
on  the  bat  and  throws  it  as  far  as  he  can.  If  another  player 
catches  the  peg  first  player  is  ''out,"  and  the  catcher  takes  his 
place.  If  the  peg  is  not  caught  the  player  who  gets  the  peg 
throws  it  from  the  place  where  it  lights,  toward  the  'Mag  line." 
If  the  peg  hits  the  line,  or  if  it  lights  with  the  "X"  side  up,  the 
first  player  is  ''out,"  otherwise  the  first  player  has  the  privilege  of 
tipping  and  batting  the  peg  as  many  times  as  is  indicated  by  the 
numeral  which  is  up.  The  other  players  try  to  catch  the  peg  and 
put  the  first  player  "out."  The  number  of  bat  lengths  from  the 
peg  to  the  "lag  line"  count  one  each  to  the  score  of  the  first 
player.  The  first  player,  instead  of  batting  the  peg,  may,  after 
tipping  it,  and  while  it  is  still  in  the  air,  strike  it  vertically  down- 
ward, this  feat  counts  i,ooo  to  his  score,  or  he  may  juggle  the  peg 
on  the  bat,  each  toss  vertically  upward,  counts  i,ooo  but  he  must 
finally  bat  the  peg.  Should  he  miss  in  juggling,  he  loses  the  count, 
and  must  give  the  bat  to  the  next  player.  Games  of  5,000  or 
50,000  points  are  played. 


PRPEH  FILE. 


ff 


^  J 


/7...J...  ^,  P^r.ti  T,.,t  n.  r. 


PAPER  FILE. 

Stock,  v'a"  Bass  and  Cherry. 
Make    the    small    top   piece  of 
Cherry  and  glue  in  place. 

Use  an  8d  nail  for  a  spindle. 
No  Drawing. 


66 


^AND  PAPER  BLOCK 


; 

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— > 

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SAND  P/SPEIR  BLOCK 


"Sticc* 

.A    -TM.OnK.l 

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X 

X 

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07 
SAND  PAPER  BLOCK. 

1.  Plane  the  working  face  and  mark  it  X. 

2.  Plane  the  working  edge  and  mark  it  II. 

3.  Plane  the  other  edge. 

4.  Gauge  the  thickness  on  both  edges  and  plane  to  gauge-lines. 

5.  Gauge  the  width  (do  not  plane). 

6.  Gauge  for  rip-saw  /e''  wide  (do  not  saw). 

7.  Chamfer  one  corner  (ask  teacher  which). 
3.  Plane  this  end  scjiiare. 

9.  Measure  length  and  mark  with  a  knife-line. 

10.  Saw  off. 

11.  Chamfer. 

12.  Plane  this  end. 

13.  Mark  and  plane  the  curved  end. 

14.  Mark  and  plane  the  beveled  end. 

15.  Saw  and  plane  to  the  width. 

FINISH. 

1.  Measure  and  mark  gains  on  W.  F.    (use  knife-lines). 

2.  Carry  the  lines  down  both  edges. 

3.  Gauge  the  depth  of  the  gains. 

4.  Saw   between   the  lines,    at   a    little   distance   from  them  (cut 

nearly  to  gauge-lines). 

5.  Chisel  carefully  to  the  lines. 

6.  Make  wedges. 


68 


TE/l  POT  3TAND. 


rqmr 


:Ma<tfi  a^i 


TOWEL    nRCK. 


TEA  POT  STAND. 
Stock,  ^s"  Oak. 

An  exercise  in  the  use  of  the  chisel  and  turning-saw. 
The  planing  of  the  board  to  ,%"  thick  should  be  made  a  lead- 
ing feature. 

Drawing  as  shown. 


TOWEL  RACK. 
Stock,  Y-z"  Oak  for  back  and  brackets;  /^"  Oak  for  arms.. 
Drawing  of  details. 


69 


STAMP   BOX. 


Stock,  Gumwood,  or  Oak. 

Make  the  block  (A),  yi"  x  i^"  x  4^",  sawing  and  chiseling 
the  slanting  grooves.  Glue  on  the  back  piece,  ^"  thick,  and 
glue  and  nail  the  bottom  in  place.  The  top  is  fastened  as  shown 
with  ^"  brass  hinges.  This  model  should  be  elaborately  carved 
on  the  top  and  around  the  body.  The  edges  of  cover  and  base 
may  be  either  chamfered  as  shown  in  the  picture  or  rounded  as 
shown  in  the  working  drawing. 

Working  Drawing. 


CHE^^   on  CHECHEH  BOAFin. 


-4"> 


^-..^-t 


EvftNS     Del 


-/e^' 


MM.  Friednici  JJes 


PICTURE   FfiAMES. 


^       ^M 


U. 


1      !< — l'Ce3 

j^^    '4nJ     "^^ 

3la»(lanl  Dimtniiena. 

^kJ\/Sw 


<1  t/rriYJ  nrin 


PICTURE  FRAMES. 


All  picture  moulding  is  to  be  made  of  }^"  Oak  and  }^"  Pine, 
as  indicated  on  the  drawing,  which  shows  only  a  few  sections  that 
may  be  built  up  in  this  way.  Sections  I  and  H  show  the  use  of 
yi"  Oak,  which  is  allowable.  *A11  frames  are  to  be  made  with  the 
mitre  joint  and  fastened  together  with  glue  and  brads  as  is  indi- 
cated in  the  isometric  drawings. 

The  width  of  picture  moulding  may  be  made. from  one  to  three 
inches  as  shown  by  the   "Standard  Dimensions"  Drawing. 

r.    Plane  a  tried  edge  on  one  of   the  }^"  Oak   boards   and   gauge 
the  width  of  the  moulding. 

2.  Rip  off  this  strip  and  plane  to  the  gauge-line. 

3.  Shape  the  edge  or  edges,  according  to  the  design  selected. 

4.  In  the  same  way  prepare  a  strip  of  equal  length  for  the   outer 


*  Frames  of  greater  width  than  three  inches  may,  however,  be  made  with 
the  doweled  butt  joint,  this  form  being  considered  more  artistic  for  heavy 
frames. 


72 

edge,  if  the  design  requires  this  third  piece,  and  also  pre- 
pare the  ^4"  pine  base  piece. 

5.  Glue  and  brad  the  strips  together  using  as  few  brads  as  pos- 

sible.     (The  brads  should  be  set). 

6.  Clean  the  moulding  with  sandpaper,  and    finish   according  to 

the  directions  for  finish. 

7.  Mark  the  joints  with  the  bevel  and  saw  apart. 

FINISH. 

1.  Dead  Black.      Fill   with   any   dark   filler   and    finish   with  two 

coats  of   "Drop-black"  ground  in  Japan.      (This  drop- 
black  is  a  flat-drying  coach  finish.) 

2.  Glossy  Black.      Polish  the  above  with  floor-wax. 

3.  Mottled.      Color  with    either   wood-stain   or  drop-black,   and 

then  fill  with  a   light   colored   filler.      (May   be   polished 
with  wax  if  desired.) 

4.  Green,  Brown,  or  any  color  which   requires   stain   should   be 

filled  after  coloring. 
Two  coats  of  shellac  may  be  used  over  any  of  the  above. 


BOOT  JACK. 


(\  hr  JiMn^  qui 


Stock, 


X  6"  X  20 


BOOT  JACK. 
',  Oak  or  Birch. 


Plane  one  edge  and  one  end. 

Gauge  width  and  center  line. 

Lay  off  curves  on  one  side  and  the  lines  for  mortise   on   the 

opposite  side,  taking  all  measurements   from  the  planed 

edge  and  end. 
Plane  to  width. 

Saw  nearly  to  curves  with  turning-saw  and  finish  with   spoke- 
shave  and  files. 
Square  lines  on  each  edge  for  mortise  and  gauge  the  depth  of 

mortise. 
Saw  and  chisel  mortise,  fitting  it  to  thickness    of   waste  piece 

at  end  which  is  to  be  used  in  making  the  brace. 
Mark  lines  for  chamfer,  on  edges  with  marking-gauge  and  on 

top  with  thumb-gauge. 
Bore  hole. 
Fit  the  brace  or  cleat,  being  particular  that  the  bevel  end  will 

rest  firmly  on  floor  when  in  position  for  use. 
The  bevel  end  of  brace  should  be  very   carefully  planed   and 
tested  with  the  T  Bevel  and  trysquare. 

11.  Glue  and  nail  together. 

12.  Clean  and  finish  with  shellac. 

Use  wood-filler  on  Oak  before  using  shellac. 
General  Drawing. 


7' 


9- 
10. 


74 


2/iLT  ^OX 


-I     - 


^caU   Naif  Sije,. 


t:iBU 


/IJ'.   flf.fXma..    /?>. 


ijntrj 


SALT  BOX  No.    i, 


Stock,  %"  X  6"  X  i6",  s.  2  s.,  Pine  and  yi"  Basswood. 

1.  Plane  tried  edge  and  gauge  width. 

2.  Saw  off  near  gauge-line,  saving  the  narrow  strip  for  the  rail  to 

which  cover  will  be  hinged. 

3.  Plane  to  gauge-line  and  lay  off   the   back   with   compass   and 
knife-lines. 

4.  Saw  off  and  finish  back  with  plane  and  chisel,  then  gauge  and 

plane  to  required  thickness. 

5.  Make  two  bottom  pieces  in  the  same  way  as  above,  one  to  be 

used  to  hold  the  basswood  in  shape  at  top  while  it  is  drying. 

6.  Make  cover  and  rail  and  fasten  together  with  hinges. 

7.  Fasten  base  to  back. 

8.  Prepare  Basswood  by  planing  to  correct  length  but  leaving  the 

width  greater  than  is  required. 

9.  Soak  the  Basswood  in  water  for  at  least  one  hour. 


75 


At  this  point  design  and  apply  ornamentation  to    top    of   the 

back:   (either  punching  or  chip-carving  may  be  used.) 
Fasten  Basswood  at  one  edge  and   carefully   bend   to   shape 

around  the  base  and  the  extra  base  piece  which   is   to  be 

inserted  at  top. 
Fasten  in  this  position  with  a  cord   but   do    not   glue  and  nail 

to  place  until  Basswood  is  thoroughly  dry. 
Fasten  with  brads  and  glue  and  clean  with  sandpaper. 
Shellac. 
General  Drawing. 


2/iLT  BOX  No. 2 


A  ivj-M^^  jg.t 


C S  JroH3  Jiestq>. 


LETTER  BOX  No./. 


:iy^' 


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/^A/L   BOX. 


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HAT   RACK. 

Stock,  ^"  X  3^"  X  24",  s.  2  s.,  Pine. 

The  back  is  intended  as  an  exercise  in  planing  and  as  a  basis 
for  decoration  either  by  means  of  chip-carving  or  back-ground 
punching. 

The  pegs  are  to  be  made  as  shown  in  drawing  and  are  in- 
tended as  strictly  a  chisel  exercise. 

The  pegs  may  be  wedged,  in  addition  to  gluing.  . 

General  Drawing  (not  shown.) 


83 


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A  W  EvsNS  Del. 


84 


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C    S    /)-0f)3     i?fS. 


AN  AQUARIUM  FOR  THE  SCHOOL-ROOM, 
By  Dr.   H.   H.   Wilder,   Northampton,   Mass. 


It  seems  rather  a  pity  that  the  word  ''aquarium  "  should  be 
so  generally  associated  with  a  large  globe  of  clear  water,  round 
which  a  few  goldfish  lazily  disport  themselves,  at  times  distorted 
out  of  all  recognition,  or  magnified  to  colossal  proportions  by  the 
deceitful  refraction  of  the  spherical  surface.  To  a  true  lover  of 
nature  there  is  something  woefully  unsatisfactory  about  such  a 
globe, — unsatisfactory  because  it  corresponds  to  nothing  in  nature, 
and  does  not  even  suggest  nature.  The  first  endeavor  in  making 
a  good  school  aquarium  is  to  make  it  natural,  make  it  a  true 
sample  of  some  real  pond,  where  everything  grows  and  thrives  as 
nearly  as  possible  as  it  does  out  of  doors  in  the  real  world. 

For  purposes  of  observation,  an  aquarium  with  straight 
sides  is  better  than  a  globular  or  cylindrical  one.  (A  very  practical 
one  is  here  shown.)     There  are  two  sizes,  the  larger  with  a  capactiy 


85 

of    five    gallons,  its   base    13"  x  8",    and    its  height   13";    and  the 
smaller  2^^  gallons,  and  its  dimensions  10^"  x  6)^",  and  10"  high, 

SOIL    AND    PLANTS. 

To  prepare  such  an  aquarium,  collect  first  some  good  garden 
soil,  a  small  quantity  of  clean  sand,  and  a  few  handfuls  of  small 
round  pebbles  about  the  si/e  of  beans.  Then  go  to  some  pasture 
pond  or  slow  running  brook,  and  dig  up  a  few  sprays  of  small  sorts  of 
aquatic  plants,  taking  care  to  get  the  roots  and  a  little  of  the  soil. 

Almost  any  truly  aquatic  green  plants  will  do;  but  chara  and 
anacharis  are  among  the  best.  If  you  can  find  any  duck-weed,  a 
a  little  floating  plant,  each  plant  consisting  of  a  few  small  oval 
leaves,  and  a  short  hanging  root,  take  some  of  that  also.  Take 
also  a  little  of  the  floating  green  slime,  which  is  not  a  dangerous, 
malarial  scum,  but  a  beautiful  water  plant,  and  a  fine  food  for 
snails  and  some  other  aquatic  animals.  When  all  the  above  have 
been  brought  together,  put  the  aquarium  in  its  permanent  position 
and  place  in  the  bottom  1^"  to  2"  of  the  garden  soil.  Wet  this 
thoroughly,  and  put  in   it  the  water  plants. 

THE    WATER. 

Now  add  water  until  there  is  about  an  inch  of  it  above  the 
surface  of  the  soil.  This  will  be  very  muddy  at  first,  but  if  the 
soil  is  of  the  right  sort  and  not  too  clayey,  it  will  settle  fairly  well 
in  half  an  hour.  Now  add  the  sand  a  little  at  a  time  until  you 
have  a  layer  of  perhaps  ^"  to  i"  covering  the  soil,  and  then  add 
water  very  carefully  until  the  aquarium  is  full.  In  adding  this 
water,  pour  it  slowly  down  the  sides,  and  not  always  in  the  same 
place,  to  avoid  making  holes  in  the  sand.  This  water  should 
stand  a  day  and  then  be  carefully  syphoned  off  with  a  rubber  tube, 
and  clear  water  added.  While  the  water  is  off,  strew  small  pebbles 
on  the  surface.  Change  the  water  every  day  or  half-day  until  it 
seems  quite  clear.  In  some  cases  a  week  may  be  necessary  in 
order  to  accomplish  this.  Finally  add  the  floating  plants,  and  the 
aquarium  is  ready  to  be  stocked. 

STOCKING    THE    AQUARIUM. 

The  stocking  of  an  aquarium   is   a   chapter  in    itself,  and  the 


selection  of  animals  depends  on  the  taste  or  object  of  its  owner. 
An  aquarium  of  the  larger  of  the  two  sizes  mentioned,  and  well 
stocked  with  vegetation,  will  support  from  eight  to  ten  goldfish, 
two  large  tadpoles,  and  a  half  dozen  snails. 

Small  bullheads,  minnows,  or  other  native  fish  will  answer  as 
well  as  goldfish,  and  may  prove  even  more  interesting.  Such  an 
aquarium  is  almost  self-supporting,  but  it  is  better  to  take  out  and 
replace  about  two  pitchers  of  water  every  two  or  three  weeks,  or 
as  often  as  the  fish  begin  to  lie  near  the  surface,  and  gasp. 

A  few  bits  of  coral  or  bright  colored  shells  placed  in  the 
bottom  may  make  the  aquarium  more  attractive,  but  hardly  as 
true  to  nature  as  without  them. 

The  fish  will  thrive  better  if  they  are  fed  every  day  or  two 
with  a  few  crumbs  of  * 'goldfish-food"  which  may  be  obtained  at 
any  bird  store.      A  ten-cent  package  will  last  a  year. 

A  tiny  grotto  may  be  made  of  a  few  large  stones  placed  in  one 
corner:  and  such  a  retreat  would  be  much  appreciated  by  the  fish. 


NEG/iTIVE  WyiSHING  BOX 

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PLRTE    HACH  No.  2 


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WEATHER  VANE  No.    i. 

Stock,  y%"  Pine  and  i^r"  Bass. 

The  forming  of  the  arms  of  the  wheel  and  the   chamfering   of 
horizontal  end  post  are  to  be  done  with  the  knife, 
(reneral  Drawing. 


WEATHER  VANE    no  2  . 


/ — \ 


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flUffiriiiri  Xlt( 


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TOWEL  HOLLin. 

zi" W JS    - 


A  w  F..>,    n.i 


TOWEL    ROLLER. 

(  2i",    s.  2  s.,    Pine, 


X  3     X  7 


S.    2    S. 


Stock,     ^"    X  5"  X  2l",     S.    2 

Pine,  i^"  X  i}("  X  20",  Rough  Gum. 

1.  Plane  stock  for  the  back  to  size  on  edges  and  ends. 

2.  Lay   off   curves   and    dovetails   as    per    drawing,    using    only 

gauge,  compass  and  knife-lines. 

3.  Bore  holes  for  concave  curves  at  top. 

4.  Saw  out  with  back-saw  and  finish  with  chisel,  being  particular 

that  the  sides  and  shoulders  of  dovetails  are  square  with 
the  face. 

5.  Plane  stock  for  brackets  on  edges  and  ends  to  a  greater  length 

than  will  be  required  for   both   brackets   and   to   a  width 

of  2l<". 

6.  Mark  out  both  brackets   on  this  piece  with  knife  and  gauge- 

lines,  so  that  the  ends  already  planed  will  serve   for  the 
top  surface  of  each. 

7.  Chisel  curve  and  test  with  trysquare. 


92 

8.  Bore  holes  ^"  deep  and  groove  one  bracket  as  shown. 

9.  Saw  apart  and  plane  to  lines. 

10.  Mark  mortises  by  laying  on    the   dovetail   already   made  and 

scribing  with  knife. 

11.  Square  and  gauge  depth  of  mortise. 

12.  Saw  exactly  to  lines  and  remove  stock  with  chisel. 

THE  ROLLER. 

1.  Cut  square  bar  to  required  length. 

2.  Find  center  of  square  bar  at  the  ends  by  drawing  diagonals. 

3.  Scribe  both  circles  at  each  end. 

4.  Draw  lines  on  end  of  bar  tangent  to  large  circles  cutting   the 

corners  at  about  45  degrees. 

5.  The  ends  of  these  lines  may  be   connected   by  gauge  lines  on 

the  length  of  the  bar. 

6.  Plane  to  octagonal  form,  requiring  that  this  preliminary  work 

be  accurate. 

7.  Plane  to  circle. 

8.  Saw  and  chisel  small  ends. 

9.  Finish  roller  with  sandpaper. 

No'iE. — The  back  is  now  to  be  decorated  either  by  means  of 
chip  carving  or  background  punching. 

10.  Clean  and  glue  together. 

11.  Shellac. 

Drawing. — The  drawing  for  this  exercise  should  consist  of 
details  of  each  part  separately,  and  not  as  given  in  above  drawing 
except  for  advanced  pupils. 


93 


2ifQCE^TI0NS  FGj\  OBNANENTATION  or  TOWEL  nOLLEIi. 


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94 


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DETAIL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  TOWEL  ROLLER. 

TO    BE    PLACED    ON    TEACHERS    SET    OF    MODELS. 
BACK. 

\      I.    Plane  a  working  face,   mark  it  X,  use  smoothing 
plane. 

2.  Plane  a  tried  edge,  mark  it  X,  use  jack-plane  set 
very  fine. 

3.  Plane  other  face,  do    not    mark   it,  use  smoothing 
plane. 

4.  Plane  a  tried  end,  mark  it  X,  use  smoothing  plane. 

5.  Square  off  20"  from  tried  end  with  knife-line. 

6.  Saw  off  32"  outside  of  line. 

7.  Chamfer  corner  opposite  tried  edge  and  plane  this 
end  to  line. 

8.  Gauge  width. 
i     9.    Saw  and  plane  to  width. 

2nd       (   10.    Square  off  knife-lines  A-A  and  B   B. 
board.    (  11.    Gauge  lines  C-C,  D-D  and  E-E. 


I  St 

board. 


board. 


4  th 

(  i6. 

loard. 

I   >7. 

5th 
oard. 

1- 

6th 

( 

oard. 

19. 

1)5 

12.  Draw  circles  at  F-F  with  dividers. 

13.  Draw  curves  at  G-G  with  dividers. 

14.  Mark  off  dovetails  with  dividers  from  center  lines 
C-C. 

r^.    Draw  knife-lines  marked  H-H-H-H. 

Bore  holes  at  F-F  with  Fostner  bit. 

Saw  to  lines  B-B  and  D-D,  use  back-saw. 

Saw  to  lines  H-H-H^H  and  A-A. 

Round  two  corners  and  finish  with  chisel  and  file. 

ROLLER. 

ist      (     I.    Plane  face  No.  i. 
stick.     )     2.    Plane  face  No.   2   square  with  No.  i. 

2nd      \     3.    Surface  off  face  No.  3. 
stick.     I     4.    Gauge  width  from  No.  2,  on  No.  i,  and  on  No.  3. 

3rd       \     5.    Plane  No.  4,  to  these  lines, 
stick.     I     6.    Gauge  width  from  No.  i,  on  No.  2,  and  on  No.  4. 

(     7.    Plane  No.  3,  to  these  lines. 
.         •<     8.    Square  around  each    end   with   knife-line    making 
(  stick  correct  length. 


5  th 
Slick. 


8  th 
stick. 


I     9.  Saw  ends  to  these  lines,  use  back-saw. 

I   10.  Draw  diagonals  on  ends. 

.|    II.  Draw  circles  on  ends  with  dividers. 

I   12.  Mark  chamfers  on  ends. 

(^  13.  Gauge  chamfers  on  sides. 


6th        \  r^, 

stick      ")  ^^'    P^^"^  corners  to  gauge-lines. 

Stick      i  '5*    ^^^^^  o^  corners  again,  use  smoothing  plane. 


I    16.  Plane  off  corners  again  with  smoothing  plane. 

I   17.  Round  slick  with  plane  and  strip  of  sandpaper. 

I    18.  Draw  small  circles  on  ends. 

I    19.  Mark  off  shoulders  with  gauge. 

[  20.  Saw  down  shoulders,  do  not  saw  too  deeply. 


96 


9tli       \  2  1.    Work  small  ends  with  chisel. 
stick.     (  22.    Finish  small  ends  with  file,  and  saw  to  3/2"  in  length. 

BRACKETS. 

Plane  working  face,  and  mark  it. 
Plane  tried  edge,  and  mark  it. 
Plane  other  face. 

Chamfer  corners  opposite  tried  edge,  use  plane. 

Plane  both  ends  square. 

Gauge  width  from  tried  edge  on  both  faces. 

Mark  off  length  from  each  end  with  knife-line. 

Mark  off  corners  with  knife-line. 

Draw  curves. 

Plane  width  to  gauge-line. 

Saw  off  corners,  use  back-saw. 

Saw  pieces  apart. 

Plane  to  lines  on  top  ends. 

Chisel  off  round  corners. 

Lay  out  holes,  make  right  and  left. 

16.    Lay  out  mortises  on  both  pieces. 

Lay  out  roller  slot  on  right  hand  bracket. 
Saw  mortises  and  roller  slot,  use  back-saw. 

Finish  out  mortises  and  slot  with  S/^"  chisel. 

Eighth  block  shows  mortise  in  process   of  making,  also    posi- 
tion of  hole. 


hlnrW 

2- 

UlvJCK  . 

.    3- 

4- 

5- 

2nd 

6. 

block. 

7- 

8. 

.     9- 

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block. 

12. 

4th 
block. 

1- 

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1  .<■ 

block. 

hs. 

6th 

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block. 

1* 

yth 
block. 

i 

,19- 

97 


PAPEH  HACK. 


3ca.U  FuU  3tje. 


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A  W  f.A^s  n.i 


PAPER  RACK. 

Stock,  y^"  and  /g"  Pine. 

1.  Prepare  stock  for  the  frame  of  back  D. 

2.  Join  as  shown  or  with  open  mortise  and  tenon  joints. 

3.  Make  and  fasten  piece  C  to  back  with  glue  and  nails. 

4.  Make  rails  B  and  pickets  A  for  front. 

5.  Fasten  A.  &  B.  with  ^"  R.  H.  Brass  screws,  except  the   first 

and  last  pickets,  which  will  be  held   to   cleat  C  by  i^" 
R.  H.  Brass  screws. 

6.  Clean  with  sandpaper  and  finish  with  shellac. 
General  drawing  as  shown. 


^LED. 


/}    W  F>r^^,. 


SLED  No.    I 


Stock,  V^"  X  9"  X  37",  s.  2  s.,  Pine,  J^^"  x  5"  x  i2}4",  s.  2  s., 
Pine,  3^"  x  13"  X  30",  s.  2  s.,  Pine,  i"  x  i"  x  13"  rough  Ash. 
Iron  corner  braces  are  furnished. 
Iron  shoes  will  be  supplied  at  cost  to  pupils  when  desired. 

1.  Plane  both  edges  of  large  }i"  board  and  lay  off  both  runners, 

using  the  planed  edges  for  base  of  runners. 

2.  Saw  apart  and  finish  to  lines,  but  do  not  mark  or  cut  dovetail 

mortises. 

3.  Make  dovetail  braces  and  from   these  scribe  the  mortises  in 

the  runners. 

4.  Glue  and  nail  dovetail  braces  to  place. 

5.  Make  top  and  glue  and  nail  to  place. 

6.  Plane  the  ash  rod  in  the  same  manner  as  roller  in  Towel  Rol- 

ler.    This  rod  should  be  nailed  into  place,  as  the  wedges 
shown  in  the  drawing  are  liable  to  split  the  runners. 

7.  Screw  on  iron  corner  braces. 

8.  Finish  with  shellac.     (No  shellac  to  be  used  inside). 
Detail  Drawings. 


uu 


FT 


n 


'-IS.:' 


/is/t. 


£'iiU  of  eras  /litcc. 


I /e- 


-<E5 


ae" 


/I   W^v.^s     ///-/ 


r/.„.  ^i  /.-OLS  jjf^. 


SLED  No.    2. 


m 


II 


Stock,  yi"  X  lo"  X  37",  s.  2  s.,  Pine,  j4"  x  11" 
X  30",  s.  2  s..  Pine,  i  ^4^"  x  ij^"  x  13"  rough  Ash. 

1.  Plane  both  edges  ^^"  board  and  lay  off  run- 

ners, using  planed  edge  for  base. 

2.  Block  plane  front  end  of  runner  and  finish  to 

curved  line. 

3.  Bore  holes  for  cross-pieces  and  handles.    Saw 

out  and  finish  handles. 

4.  Saw  runners  apart  and  finish  back  to  lines. 

5.  Plane  up  cross-pieces  and  fit  to  auger  holes. 

6.  Make  top. 

7.  Clean  parts  with  fine  cut  of  plane,  glue  and  nail  together. 

8.  Screw  on  corner  braces  and  shoe  irons. 

9.  Finish  with  shellac  (outside  only). 


> 


4- 


PEN  TRAY. 


100 


/ 

1 

•, 

.t      -i> 

\ 

^00         \              H,^ 

1 

""                           ^ 

i, 

-J 

i 

i 

\ 

.r      -iv        t 

1^ 

^.-     t        1 

/^f 

:^  _.__         X 

v^^ 

T 

C    .i 

^ 

\     s. 

"  ^  r^'—  Ti.i 


i  o  he  matte  of     o    or  mere  altc 
itrifi    cj  ti^Kt  and   dur/f    w">^ 


ttcnaU 
d    I- 


PEN  TRAY  No.    i. 

Stock,  i"  X  2"  X  12"  rough   Pine,  i"  x  3"  x  12"   rough   Gum, 
or  a  greater  variety  and  a  larger  number  of  pieces. 

1.  Plane  one  face  and  one  edge  of  pine  board. 

2.  Gauge  and  saw  ofE  one  >^"  strip  and  plane  to  gauge  line. 

3.  Plane  one  face  and  one  edge  of  Gumwood  board. 

4.  Gauge  and  saw  off  one  ^"  strip  and  plane  to  gauge  line. 

5.  Glue  together  these  two  strips  and  proceed  as   above   to  pre- 

pare another  strip  which  may  then  be  glued  on.  The 
working  faces  should  be  held  as  evenly  as  possible  in 
gluing  and  should  all  be  on  one  side. 

6.  When  all  five  or  more  strips  are  glued  the  face  side  should  be 

carefully  leveled  with  the  smoothing-plane,  the  thickness 
gauged  and  the  opposite  face  (which  is  still  unplaned) 
planed  to  gauge  lines. 

7.  Draw  center  line  and  mark  curves. 

8.  Gauge  sides  of  groove. 


101  ;         ;—       ;  '.'''''['.'  '\  ' 

9.    Gouge  curves  as  shown   (do   not  use   mallet  or  hammer  on 
gouge.) 

10.  Scrape  with  swan-neck  scraper. 

11.  Gauge  and  plane  chamfer. 

12.  Clean  and  shellac. 

Note. — Test  semicircle  with  trysquare   as  shown   in   sketch 
above. 

Drawing. — No  drawing  is  required  but  may  be  made   if  the 
teacher  decides  that  it  is  best. 


PEN   THAY.  NO.  2. 


\5^^i^^^^^-^-gF 


/iw.  a:.wvs  n.i 


PEN  TRAY  No.    2. 
Stock,  J'q",  s.  2  s.,  Gum. 
All  gouge  work  is  to  be  left  rough  showing  the   marks  of  the 


gouge. 


102 


NEW^PAPEH    FILE. 

e /  ^   »-< —    p  K  — 


-t^. 


-h: 


^-f-f   Ky^-^^w^- 


\\ 


<f'i\  \  irrwi 


—f. — 


) 


J 


A  VJ  EvnNji  Del. 


M  M   F>-i.ecln,a„    De 


FOOT   ^TOOL     No.  /. 


Chaiuftr. 


1  -a 


-'i'A 


J3i 


grant    Bttbt     jDti. 


103 


FOOT   BTQOL.NoZ. 


^i'^ii'A 

<0 

/ 

i 

1 

1. 

W 

1 

^tciio,^  7iB". 


Slteuriftj     hcur  cunireaL  /Jart 
\t    'C'  13      const rucCed. 


fl    W  F....^     il..l 


aeo.     B^kacni     nrs.fnr, 


FOOT  STOOL  No.   3. 
Stock,  J-i",  s.  2  s.,  Pine. 

The  curved  outlines  of  the  sides  are  to  be  sawed  with  a  turn- 
ing-saw, and  finished  with  file  and  sandpaper.  Each  side  is  to  be 
made  separately,  that  is,  one  side  is  not  to  be  used  as  a  template 
in  laying  out  the  other  side.  This  rule  in  regard  to  duplication  of 
parts  should  be  insisted  upon  in  all  cases. 

The  bevel  is  to  be  used  in  planing  the  edges  of  the  top  board, 
112^  and  68"  being  the  required  angles. 

A  cover  of  carpet  may  be  supplied  by  the  pupil. 

Drawing  as  shown,  omitting  shading. 


il.  E.  Onge. 


PiHNQ  BENCH 


32" 


M\i    fit! 


MiH9ik  Snui  Chkiii9»/iarimi  Sihesi, 


Pianu  J^ench  to  be  made  of  Oak. 


105 


Knife  box. mi 


—  -ft--— -4^  -B 


/oi- 


[  rHj!«- 


/^' 


gritira  fif,^ 


._L-L^#^. 


2"— I-  — 


i Li 


-/£-j 


Jfe£ 


ITTj-^ 


]         c 


W 


7#' 


k/-- 


/rVv^rrin   r/r.i 


^--^  ^"■*'  ^^^'-f- 


106 


Knife  box  moS. 


Sma  at,i, 


r  A  n.iu,^    n,,^fm,r 


KNIFE  BOXES. 

Stock,  }4",  s.  2  s.,  Pine. 

A  choice  is  here  given  of  three  forms  of  knife  boxes,  all  hav- 
ing in  common  the  use  of  the  bevel  and  all  illustrating  a  rabbeted 

joint. 

The  intention  is  to  have  each  pupil  lay  off  his  own  work  on  a 
large  ^"  board,  instead  of  giving  him  stock  cut  approximately  to 
size,  this  is  to  teach  him  economy  in  the  use  of  material. 

The  teacher  and  not  the  pupil  is  to  make  the  selection  of  the 
design  to  be  used  by  the  entire  class. 

Drawing — Detail  drawings  as  shown  (no  perspective.) 


107 


PENCIL  BOX   No.^ 


^ 


fi    kV   E*KNi    De 


oth""^"    Des 


PENCIL  BOX  No.   4. 

Stock,  i^e"  Bass,  9"  x  g". 

Plane  edge  and  ends,  making  length  8}( 


2.  Mark  gauge-lines  for  sides  and  bottom,  allowing  ^"  between 

pieces  for  sawing  and  planing. 

3.  Saw  off  and  plane  to  lines. 

4.  Make  remaining  piece  8^"  long  and  cut  off  enough  for  cover. 

5.  Make  front  and  back. 

6.  Mark  gains  on  sides  and  back. 

7.  Cut  gains  with  back   or   rip-saw,  using  a  block   clamped    in 

position  as  guide  for  saw. 

8.  Glue  and  nail  together  and  clean  with  plane  and  sandpaper. 
Note. — Cover    and   sides    may    be    ornamented    with     chip- 
carving  before  putting  together. 

DIMENSIONS    OP^    PARTS. 

Sides,    iV  X  iS/s"  X  8}{";    Grooves,  i'«"  wide   and    deep    ,^«" 
from  top. 

Bottom,  iV  X  i^"  X  S}{". 

Back,  i^e"  X  lys"  X  i^";  Grooves  same  as  for  sides. 

Front,  i%"  X  i}i"  x  iY%". 

Cover,  ?«"  X  il^"  X  8>^". 


108 


PENCIL  BOX. 


'•^     Wk 

\       a*^P                          Groove   to  ie  cU 
5*c/e    ZoJth^S.        7           H                   f° 

Ji 


^^^ 


BcLcit  end  /  cj  t/u 


7i 

Bcllcm       /    cJ  tUl3 


in 


'f 

f          /  ^'         , 

Frc.it    c^cl 
/  oJ  this 

\ 

rj 

T^p   1  cj  ih.s 

i'-i 

^    ^     d 

\ 

—    8'   — 

^ 

tfi  V(  r,\a«,\  an 


PENCIL  BOX  No.    i. 

Stock,  3/2,",  s.  2  s.,  Pine  or  Whitewood. 

The  teacher  will  prepare  the  necessary  directions  for  work. 
The  %"  pieces  are  to  be  planed  to  required  thickness  from  the 
Y%"  stock. 

Drawing — Same  as  above,  omitting  perspective. 


PENCIL  POX  NO.  1 . 

'^h 

:^ 

/        1 

■■>., 

./. J 

-.fto 

/               1 

,  , ._  .                  ,      ,                                    ^  ^ 

p/'lm 

y'r-f 

J,     ''J, 

—   2'r — ■ 

-* 

i"Kr 

-  ir  -  - 



4 

rH}f^-"^« 

t_ 

H--'-^f 


-ar 


Va,-tt    „xa,-kcA   /i.3,C.Ij.<:^':aE    /o  it.  made 
0/   a    vartttii    of  uiooUs     uccortitiicj  lo 


A  W  iiitnni   nru 


M  M  riyirnr^^N     77/j;a;<rfl 


109 


DETAIL^  cr PENCIL  BOX  no.  2. 


f\  h'  (Vriiffi  gr 


M   M    r^irnnK,      T)r-.,^^FH 


PENCIL  BOX  No.  3. 

\ 

.                   _.. 1 

^'"^ 

Ma.de.    j  rem    one            "^^/Jtece-. 

1               ; 

r 

■^ 

-^§^^^^ 

0 

7 

^/#'-H 

'               ^* 

BOWanbAHHOW  No.  J. 

\c 

^ 

r ^ """""^""'""""'" 

—  ^^ ' 

1   ^ 

"*  •             __  —  —,..-., 

■V. 

-  -  "V  - 

-ley 
-  *-, 

-          ~" 

to     ^.^». 

: ^.'                                        ^         ^ 

J3UGAII   SCOOP. 


110 


/iWrtnna  HiJ 


SUGAR  SCOOP. 

Stock,    2"  X  3"  X  to",   s.  4  s..    Birch,    or  several   varieties  of 
wood  glued  together. 

1.  Draw  side  elevation  on  2"  face  of  block  and  saw  nearly  to  lines. 

2.  Draw  plan  on  3"  or  top  face  of  block  and  saw  nearly  to  lines 

of  handle  leaving  sides  of  scoop  parallel  until  after  goug- 
ing is  finished. 

3.  Gouge  inside  of  scoop  and  finish  with  scraper. 

4.  Complete  sawing  nearly  to  lines  of  top  view. 

5.  The  remainder  of  this  exercise  is  to  be  done  free-hand,  using 

the  gouge,  knife,  spokeshave,  file  and  scraper. 

6.  Remove  all  tool  marks  with  sandpaper  and  finish  with  shellac. 


Note. — Great  care  should  be  used  in  forming  the  curves 
which  join  the  handle  and  scoop  as  the  tendency  is  to  make  them 
too  abrupt. 

Drawing — The  drawing  of  this  exercise  is  optional  with  the 
teacher. 


Ill 


GLOVE   BOX 


l.inr    oj  rotrrr 


/2' 


^i 


iV 


^_ 


% 


A   W  F...,%     DrJ. 


AiYdStntii  ntMSttin 


GLOVE   BOX. 
Stock,  3/^"  Oak,  or  other  Hardwood. 
Prepare  stock  for  sides  and  ends  in  the  usual  way. 
Mark  gains  and  cut  out   with   back-saw,    using   a   block   with 

straight  edge  clamped  in  position,  as  a  guide  for  saw. 
Fit  ends  to  sides  and  glue  together,  being  careful  that  box  is 

square. 
Prepare  top  and  base,    leaving  top   flat  but   planing   beveled 

edges  on  base. 
True  edges  and  sides  of  box,  and  mark  gauge-lines  for  cover 

^"  and  ^"  from  one  edge  of  box. 
Glue  top  and  base  in  position  (}4"  brads  placed  on  inside  of 

top  and  base  along  inner  line  of  box  will  make  it  possible 

to  locate  them  readily  after  glue  has  been  applied). 
Plane  top  to  shape  and  clean  box  with  scraper  and  sandpaper. 
Fill,  and  finish  with  four  or  five  coats  of  shellac  and  rub  down 

with  pumice-stone  and  water. 
Saw  between  gauge  lines  on  sides  of  box  and  plane  to  lines. 

Fit  hinges  and  catch.      Line  with  colored  silk  or  satin  if 

desired. 
General  Drawing  and  section. 


112 


113 


14 


Co 


.■^i^« 


115 


WA^.TE  PAPEn  BR^KET  No.  7. 


:< J  J  *>. 

to 


Znda  6  Bottom   f't^tci 
3 lata    ;!"  t/iic/i. 


EvfiNSUcL. 


H.J.   Greeu    i7t;s 


MEDICINE  C/iBINET 


i    .13 


^    V     /-..v.      //./ 


V,  I — I ^"^ — I    r 


Uv^ 


^ 


JcU   h 


Ala.,iuul.     Trn,,    Dr/i't 


Cabinet  is  not  to  be  made  of  pine  lumber. 


116 


LETTEH  OPENEFiNQ.3 


^. 


IV 


% 


Chun.  2  /i-nu-i    Ueai 


FENCING  SABER  No.  J. 


Iron  Waaker 


^\£"ncwU.      L 


i^QO 


s"- 


37k 


M_ ., 


^ 


==^ 


-*;/ii^| 


I  H''* 


C  '•  ^'         I          1 

^ 


ffi 


»^l 


^'iJowtll^ci. 


BtnAin^    Jt^    Jcf     Guard 


A  J.  Erectfinan  J}es 


ft    W  Ey0N9    Bt 


Neither  Letter  Opener  or  Saber  is  to  be  made  of  pine  lumber. 


117 


INK  ^TRND  Noi 


#>.^-| 


A  u/  F..»,  n,i. 


CL  0  TH£^  L INE  HEEL . 

K      ■■■ 

■.,       1          i       1       / 

^-x^— .-l>^- 

^ 

1 

■ 

r-^' — * 

r    > 

^-^  ; 

\  -                              , ^»       . 

'                                         1 

*l 

i                          H.                    i                                  1 

A 

118 


2N0W    SHOVEL. 

\ 
Mlacic.. 

-/j,—  1 

..^-- 

'"^^.^ 

M 

.'^        u 

Noo            1 

•!* — 

T 

7                »—        ^royu   chamfir 

^ * k    -    >r7v 

L-  4^^ 

;^ fk 

St' 

^-^^^ 

/  ^ '           1 

^      /4      1  . 

1 

>' 

P                    4 

>•" 

Ti„ 

T 

m 

1 

P^S 

d 

K 

^ 

Je.s^g,.    g/Z/Z^ALL. 


Not  to  be  made  of  pine  lumber. 


119 


HflND  MIBROR  No.  J 


't^- 


"■c:S3<«Q* 


-gig-^gg^ 


tHI 


^ 


Y         and  Siumfi    Che.  ialanct.  \ 

J  jji"      V 


5/1' 


m&m^mm.  ^  x  x  x  x  x  ^f^^mtd 


/?  W  Es/fiNS.   JDll 


M  M  Fricdnmn  Be. 


H/iND  MIBBOF]  No.  2. 


ft  VJ  Evans   XJc 


M  M    rrndmanPti. 


120 


HHND  MlBHOn   No.  3. 


/?  V  E^/fln^   DCL. 


G      /?///? /VCOC/)     JJ^?. 


HAND  MIRROR  No.  3. 

Stock,  three  pieces  of  }i"  Basswood. 

The  back  is  to  be  left  solid.  The  front  is  to  have  an  opening 
as  shown.  The  glass  to  be  4^"  x  2)^",  with  Yz"  taken  off  from 
each  corner. 

This  is  an  exercise  in  the  use  of  the  coping-saw^  and  in  glu- 
ing.    The  handle  may  be  rounded  if  desired. 


121 


3T/iND. 


/-f' 


-:!/.. 


KIo 


K 


-8i" 


SAe/f. 


^A 


-  ^^^£j_x^£^0W^_3^    y 


//i:-. — H    ^ 


HIH 


.1. 
"V 


I  t-icO~| 

-" T— ' 


'hco  \: 


Ornun,,„la/     /faU.        T 


Gro.i?  Bethe     Des. 


HOM/iN  CHniH. 


'li'^5' 


LeqA.  '^rAui./jgiL. 


eiou/e/»    are   ctijjefent  on  & 


WW.  Bici^eK    Des- 


122 


123 


k i"  j^ug.^. at..,  „fAA,r, 

tue    a.ud   clourti  ]  -i-  Lt/,t    tA,3.  ^=^-x  ^ 


\_,  TABLE 


-23'- 


'^      "I'T : 


One   /i/iei/, 


[-• 

-  /.i 

'i :j 

;  4  r. 

X.- 

t  ki^-K 

#^-^' 

1          ■           III                    1 

i^ 


J^^ Oiif  iikt  i/iLS 


^ 


^cafe    ^"-  /' 


^  Z,/5er/. 


^ — ^ — 91- 


d  lY:^rrfM  J6»»<itr 


JRHDINIEFiE  2  TAME 


dWl\tr«i  P-. 


Tables  and  Stands  are  to  be  made  of  pine  lumber. 


124 


Tabourets  are  not  to  be  made  of  pine  lumber. 


125 


/I   )^  F 77,/ 


'      M^-i"     n^3,jnc,- 


Use  hardwood  in  making  this  Table. 


Tit.nnuiui^     r.n'iP:       -mrr-r     i. 


//^        w/:=|. 


T.r.i 


^  Punch     3lU,eTh.s 


m 


d  h  r,f(iin  f7f<i 


Cover    J  LiHcThis. 


^caU  -i'  -  /' 


n.^,«^,.d  Lu  arn^i  n.,iu 


126 


Cover  I  Lil(t  This. 
Scale   i  ■  /" 


tdLu    Qraml  BreAr 


This  form  is  more  difificult  of  construction  than  that  shown 
on  previous  page.     Sheet  No.  2  applies  to  both  drawings. 

HLACHina  Casf. surrT  'a. 


JJr>iM,-i  r    Na,Ud  y-  Glued 


^caU  "i"-/  ' 


'•-  ----■^  "«' 


Hrukiud  liu  Ciraiit  ftttLm 


12' 


BLACKING   CR^E  m.Z 


-I 


,^..:p 


ft  fc¥^gmiYi  nrf 


\  @?=l1 


^  BowtL 


/ 

ft  wr....    77.. 


UMBnELlA  3TnNn 

mm 


W^.   P  U^^./,u  n,„..^.^. 


Use  nothing  but  oak  lumber  for  Umbrella  Stands. 


128 


St^pI^add^i, 


-HtlGHT  -  3' 6 
Top5teP-  lOf 
3orroM5TLP-  iW 
5i0t5TRiPS-/'X?"x3t 


74L-t:6AG^ 


DESIfiNE.Il. 


129 


STEP  L/iDDEB. 


l^duji  ^"x2'x/2 


5Ufi  |/  3fx  ^oi 


sufli'^afx/ii 


a  x32  X/£f 


mi  cluaiifer'S  Jr" 


EvflHS    BsL  . 


A  E.Qane  JJe$. 


UiWN    CHAW. 


}4x/3^" 


.{■ 


a    Cn. 


K  ai'x   16 k' 


isr 


12' 


fiJo^.l 


,4'C''«"'frr 


Section  at  A  . 


^^'J  .- 


A  W.Evans     Dl 


m  E   Can    Jlei.ginr. 


130 


FOLDING     CH/ilB. 
A  „V         A 


aoi 


4  au 


^  b,t 


/  k'  Dowt.1  red 


d 


jef 


i'au  /Deep 


"^;^ 


i* 


^  '4  Oit 

4 


< 

-P2" 

A 

1 

8 

1 

v.. 

/ 

1 

-rA. 


-^j^ 


\'r^ 


n^^/O"—^, 


-/€' 


'^^■^ 


W 


E  v/)fvs  Bel. 


'••^^ 


g    L     U.ck.iiSOti     JJes- 


FOLDING  CHAIR. 

Stock,  /s"  Oak. 

The  holes  for  dowel 
rods  are  to  be  made  ^" 
deep  and  not  entirely 
through  the  stock  as 
shown  at  A  in  drawing. 

Bolts  required,  with 
two  washers  to  each  bolt: 
Two  }("xi34",  Two  }{" 
X  2^)8",    and    Four  y^"  x 


131 


WINDOW   BOX. 


-JV<iLCs>^: 


iate^" Mtx/i.  ^ 


L7, 


r^ 


'    HI*-     i    /'Side    tiljt    tkii  and  ex t   fitai,^       I    i     ■ 


— x 


.3  l'A4/a_S  LAa>i_A,di^ 


JJctUn, 


,^/i^; 


^i 


End  aLihi  i/us 


G.-oni    Met  Li    Le 


N/iTUBE  ^TUDY  C/iBBYINQ  CASE. 

^i_^ rrn. 


-lev, J   r'~~"r~ 

^'s'H  A  J^ 


'-"B,l      i' Bit 


t-Bit 


dUst.ci.    i^'^"-*: 


SE 


84 


BEE 


Hi  rain  ^Ae/iar-d  JJe.a. 


132 


TOOL   CHE2T. 


■£T 


i2"-* 


f\     ^^^  71 


t± 


31: 


.i'dc^    yteit/  0/    Sldts,   and    ends. 

liuif    aije. 


Tcuc    0/  Z^AlS                                                Tu,c  Cf  thii 
Giue  together  and  fii  on    hoiio 

n. 

r« — 

■     1 

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-Sec/ion  showing 
position    of    top 


Suction    of  panel, 
length  lui&e.. 


f<^efi  SJrsns,/if,s, 


Tool  Chests  should  be  made  of  Hardwood. 


FRAME  FOB  LANTEBN  5LWE3.  3rx4J, 


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These  Frames  should  be  made  of  red  cedar  or  Spanish  cedar. 


133 


PEDE2TAL  No.  J 

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134 


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136 


BOY'^  WOBH  BENCH   No.  2. 


Tofs ^3crem    at  front  edje.. 


Through 
inot~Use   a>i(( 
tenon,  loftcfjfc? 
nd  tfluad. 


J.H.ToomeH  Be.%. 


137 


BOY '5    WOnH  BENCH  No.4. 


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ft  W  £yp^sJ]t:L. CAas    ,5  Jrcs  De^. 


138 


Via  A 


r^a.  c. 


r/g/;:^7:.;r/ 

§ 

-=-::— ^ 

_       

¥ 

CHIP-CARVING. 

Chip-carving,  sometimes  called  '<  peasant-carving,"  is  the 
development  of  the  ''  savage's  delight  in  notching  with  a  knife  the 
wooden  implements  and  objects  of  his  daily  use."  As  a  home  in- 
dustry it  has  been  most  fully  developed  in  Scandinavian  countries, 
by  the  peasants,  during  the  long  evenings  of  winter.  As  a  means 
for  the  decoration  of  objects  made  by  the  manual  training  classes, 
chip-carving  has  been  found  very  attractive  to  the  pupils  and  has 
stimulated  them  to  greater  effort  in  the  accurate  making  of  the 
objects  to  be  decorated,  for  no  piece  of  work  may  be  ornamented 
unless  it  is  the  product  of  the  pupil's  best  effort. 

Fig.  A  represents  the  method  used  in  marking  out  the  simplest 
form  for  chip-carving.  Fig.  B  shows  the  position  of  the  knife*  in 
cutting.  Holding  the  knife  vertically,  place  the  acute  angle  in  the 
corner  (a)  to  be  cut  deepest,  pressing  it  hard  into  this  corner,  let 
the  edge  of  the  knife  sink  into  the  line  till  it  touches  the  upper 
border  line.  Make  these  vertical  cuts  on  both  sides  of  the  triangle. 
Then,  holding  the  knife  at  about  thirty  degrees  from  the  horizontal, 
remove  the  triangular  chip  (b). 

Fig.  C  shows  a  design  formed  by  doubling  the  line  of  triangles. 
Fig.  D  shows  slight  variations  and  a  square  like  those  in  Fig.  C, 
but  notched  on  four  sides. 

Designs  for  chip-carving  should  always  be  very  carefully 
drawn  with  a  sharp  pencil. 

Children  should  plan  their  own  designs  as  soon  as  they  have 
learned  the  general  method  and  have  acquired  some  skill. 

*  See  page  30. 


139 


CHIP  C/IRVJNG. 


CENTHE-PIECES. 


K^.^^     Dr. 


A  Tflaiiuiaii  £r,iiaiiii\ 


CHIP  CAHVING. 


IXXXXXXXX] 


^^^  -'  ^-' 


140 

UJLb^/GNS  TOH  CHIP  CmVING. 


^  :^^  ^  ^||MC1ilMil»<|>4 


Aifi^fmii-Pf^- 


JJeSKins    of  G.J.ar'SOn     ^o&ter*. 


141 


D£2IQM^  ron  CHIP  CRnVING. 


Uesiqns.      0/    G  Larson,    Bast  en   Mass 


r.^^^is.  A  n^k, ns.cn.  n^.ts 


BENIGN 2  FOR  CHIP  CKRVINC 


Uenona   of  G   Larson    BosCo/ 


^^M^^^sss 


142 


DESIGN^  FOE  CHIP  C/iHVING. 


JJesigna    of   Q. Larson    Boston.  M ass. 


F.^a»'%   k  H.k.,^^cn    n,f. 


143 


CHIP  CRHVING 


G  J.a,-scu     BcnU>,     He 


W/iTEn  'WHEEL.  NO  i 
I 


Mi^ 


CHIP  C/J^V/NG, 


Dese<in     cf      /^,.    G     l.o.,-scn   Bclc 


BOW  AND  AH  HO"^:  Jfo  J 


1-  iA 


^ 


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^mail  end   Lc  be.  ^awii 
U   rec^iv-e  featket'  t/ici 
giuid   tcye.t /ie.jr    again, 


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-/^T      k^T 


^ecton'/lB'  ^ection'Cn 


fi  ^  ^"""^     Z/es 


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JJ£^/CN^  FOH  CHIP  CRHVINQ 


Frnn!^  k  n(i/un'^i>n,    SrJi\ 


ms     oP   G.  Larson    McsLon    M uSS.         j 


145 

CONSTRUCTIVE   WORK. 

p:xamples  of  construction  in  various  materials. 


'  In  order  that  constructive  work  may  represent  something  more 
than  either  amusement  or  even  training  for  skill,  the  articles  made 
should  be  the  outgrowth  of  the  child's  mental  activity,  should  each 
represent  an  idea  which  is  propagated  by  the  class-room  work. 
The  shipping  tag  would  be  a  logical  incident  in  the  study  of  com- 
mercial geography.  The  tipcat*  might  form  an  incident  in  the 
illustration  of  amusement  as  opposed  to  the  necessity  for  commer- 
cial life. 

The  directions  here  given  for  making  are  intended  only  as 
guides  to  the  teacher.  The  arrangements  of  steps  should  be 
thought  out  by  the  pupils.  Material  being  given  and  a  motive 
furnished  to  the  worker,  his  own  mental  activity  should  accomplish 
the  plan  if  allowed  free  play. 


Shipping  Tag. — Suitable  for  use   in  grades   one   to   four  in- 
clusive. 


-IM- 


Deng-rt  Of  yHBn.U. 

Stock:    Heavy  manila  paper. 

Tools  required:   Pencil,  rule,  scissors  and  punch. 

Directions:    Give   the  pupil  a   piece  of  manila   paper,  some- 


*  See  page  63. 


146   • 

what  larger  than  the  tag  to  be  made.  Measure  and  mark  the 
length  of  the  tag  from  an  edge  which  is  already  straight,  and  rule 
a  light  line  parallel  to  that  straight  edge.  Cut  on  this  line.* 
Measure  the  width  at  each  end,  rule  the  line  for  the  width  and  cut 
on  that  line.  Measure  one-half  the  width  at  each  end,  and  rule  the 
center  line  on  both  sides  of  the  tag.  Mark  and  cut  the  corners 
as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

Have  the  children  design  the  form  to  be  used  in  strengthening 
the  eyelet.  This  is  to  be  cut  in  duplicate  from  manila  paper  and 
pasted  or  glued  to  each  side  of  the  tag.  Punch  the  hole  when  the 
glue  is  dry. 

An  Envelope  (for  holding  work  in  process  of  construction). 
Suitable  for  all  grades. 


Stock:   Heavy  manila  paper,   io>^"  x  io>4". 

Tools:   Pencil,  rule,  compass  and  scissors. 

Directions:  Measure  and  mark  the  heavy  outline  as  shown  in 
the  development.  Fold  on  light  lines  and  glue  the  side  and  bottom 
flaps.  This  makes  an  envelope  measuring  about  five  by  seven 
inches.  Pupils  should  be  allowed  to  plan  envelopes  for  certain 
specific  purposes.  It  is  well  to  show  the  class  various  forms  of 
envelopes  opened  out  noting  the  number  and  relative  sizes  of  its 
various  parts,  that  the  flaps  are  longer  than  the  half  width,  etc. 

*  Sec  page  30. 


147 
Cardboard  Boxes. — Suitable  for  all  grades. 


1 

t 

c 

1 

1 

-c-> 

) 

• 

^c-. 

I 

J 

1 

D?.'Vl'hOFMENT, 
Stock:   Strawboard,  jute  or  heavy  "folding  board." 
Tools:   Pencil,  rule  and  knife. 

Directions:  The  perspective  shows  the  shape  of  a  box  made 
in  about  the  proportions  shown  in  the  development.  The  corners 
are  bound  with  bookbinder's  adhesive  cloth  which  is  the  most  con- 
venient and  serviceable  material  to  use  in  binding  all  cardboard 
constructions.  Gummed  paper  may  be  used  if  more  convenient. 
The  drawing  which  is  marked  development  represents  a  flat  piece 
of  cardboard,  marked  and  cut  ready  to  be  folded  and  bound  at 
the  corners.  The  dimensions  A  and  B  determine  the  width  and 
length  of  the  box  to  be  made,  dimensions  c,  c,  c,  c,  determine 
the  depth  of  the  box.  The  light  lines  bounding  the  central  rect- 
angle indicate  that  the  cardboard  has  been  cut  on  these  lines  only 
partly  through.  The  heavy  outline  indicates  the  lines  on  which 
the  cardboard  is  cut  entirely  through,  and  the  dotted  lines  indi- 
cate a  part  which  is  to  be  or  has  been  removed.     These  forms  of 


148 

representation  in  cardboard   work  will   be  adhered   to  throughout 
these  articles. 

After  explaining  the  general  method,  as  indicated  above,  the 
children  should  each  plan  a  box  for  some  specific  use.  They 
should  each  determine  the  size  of  stock  which  will  be  necessary 
in  making  their  boxes.  When  completed  the  boxes  may  be  decor- 
ated either  with  drawings  or  with  conventional  designs  cut  from 
colored  paper.  Let  the  children  plan  a  cover  for  their  box — this 
might  be  a  rectangular  tube  for  the  box  to  slide  into  or  a  shallow 
lid,  or  like  a  cover  to  most  candy  boxes,  as  deep  as  the  box  itself. 
Which  would  be  the  strongest,  most  convenient  and  cheapest? 

Cardboard  Trays. — Suitable  for  all  grades. 


ViVPLOPMENT 

Stock:   Strawboard,  jute  or  heavy  "folding  board." 
Tools:   Pencil,  rule  and  knife. 

Directions:    The  directions  given  for  the  Cardboard  Box  are 
applicable  in  every  respect  to  the  Tray. 


Match  Safe. — Suitable  for  all  grades. 

Stock:    Strawboard,  or  heavy  folding-board. 

Tools:    Rule,  pencil  and  knife. 

Directions:    Make  the  tray  in  the  same  manner  as  was  shown 


149 

for  a  similar  tray  above.     The  bottom  of  this  tray  should  measure 


about  2^"  X3^".  Make  the  holder  in  the  same  manner  as  for  a 
box  about  2)4"  high  by  2"  wide  by  i"  thick,  Glue  the  bottom  of 
the  holder  to  the  inside  of  the  tray  and  glue  on  an  ornamental 
sandpaper  scratcher  as  shown. 

Stationery  Case. — Suitable  for  all  grades. 


fcj 


Stock:    Strawboard,  jute  or  heavy  folding-board. 


150 

Tools:    Rule,  pencil  and  knife. 

Directions:  Draw  the  outline  as  shown  by  heavy  lines  and 
cut  out  to  that  shape.  Cut  the  lines  B  B  B  B  partly  through  for 
folding.  On  the  reverse  side  draw  the  six  lines  marked  c.  These 
are  to  locate  the  partitions  D,  which  are  shown  in  the  picture.  Now 
cover  the  strawboard  on  each  side  with  fancy  paper,  bend  and  glue 
to  shape.  Make  the  partitions  D  and  glue  the  edges  to  the  sides 
and  base  of  case  on  the  lines  c.  Cut  out  six  strips  (A)  about 
U"  wide  and  5"  long  which  are  to  be  glued  in  place  as  shown 
in  the  picture  and  afterward  trimmed  even  with  the  top  edge  of 
the  case. 

A  Thaumatrope. — This  simple  form  of  thaumatrope  is  very 
convenient  for  illustrating  the  duration  of  optical  impressions. 
The  disks  are  of  cardboard  glued  together  with  a  needle  between. 


I 


Both  disks  are  to  be  edged  and  covered  with  black  paper  before 
gluing  together.  Strips  of  red  glazed  paper  are  fixed  in  the  middle 
on  each  side,  one  horizontally  and  one  vertically.  An  outline  of 
white  paint  around  the  red  will  add  greatly  to  the  effect.  When 
balanced  between  the  thumb  and  finger  and  rapidly  rotated,  a  red 
cross  appears,  due  to  the  persistence  of  the  impression  upon  the 
retina. 


151 


Envei.ope  Case. — Suitable  for  all  grades. 


T% 


-f 


] — vy 


■5i- 


r\ 


r 


Stock:    Strawboaiu  uiucctv^  i^.^x.^o  .^^^lU. 

Tools:    Pencil,  rule,  compass  and  knife. 

Directions:  The  only  special  directions  required,  other  than 
those  which  have  been  previously  given,  are  that  the  dimensions 
for  the  length  and  width  may  be  varied  to  suit  the  size  of  envelopes 
or  cards  to  be  held,  and  that  the  base  is  a  separate  piece  to  which 
the  case  is  glued. 


152 
Brush  Holder.— Suitable  for  all  grades. 

s r 


Stock:    Strawboard  covered  with  fancy  colored  paper. 

Tools:    Rule,  pencil,  compass  and  knife. 

Directions:  Mark  and  cut  out  the  shape  for  the  back  and  then 
cover  it  with  colored  paper.  Cut  the  slots  to  receive  the  flaps  of 
the  pocket  at  a  distance  of  one  and  one-quarter  inches  from  the 
edge  and  two  inches  long,  parallel  to  the  slanting  edges.  Now 
mark  and  cut  out  the  pocket  as  shown  in  the  drawing  (^the  shape 
may  be  varied  at  pleasure).  Covef  with  colored  paper  and  then 
cut  the  lines  for  the  fold.  Slip  the  flaps  of  the  pocket  tiirough 
the  slots  in  the  back  piece  and  glue  them  firmly  to  the  back. 


153 


A  Top. — (To   illustrate    the    secondary  colors    produced    by 
rapid  rotation.) 


Two  or  more  disks  of  strawboard  or  thin  wood  are  cut  out 
and  glued  together,  sl  }("  hole  being  either  punched  or  bored 
through  the  center.  The  point  is  to  be  made  of  wood,  cone 
shaped,  and  a  short  length  of  ^"  dowel  rod  fastened  into  it 
with  glue  as  shown.  The  disk  is  then  to  be  bound  on  the  edge 
with  dark  paper,  as  also  the  under  surface.  The  upper  surface  of 
the  disk  is  to  be  covered  with  a  sheet  of  either  blue  or  red  paper, 
and  sectors  of  red  or  yellow  are  to  be  glued  on  top  of  this  at  equal 
distances  apart.*  Fasten  the  disk  in  place  with  glue.  The  rapid 
rotation  of  this  top  will  produce  the  appearance  of  violet  (blue  and 
red),  or  orange  (red  and  yellow),  the  effect  being  due  to  the  dura- 
tion of  the  impression  of  light. 

*  Six  sections  of  red  or  yellow  are  better  than  three. 


154 


An  Electric  Toy.- — The  drawing  represents  an  electric  toy 
which  is  designed  to  amuse  very  young  children  and  to  instruct 
older  ones.     It  illustrates  the  attraction  of  unlike  and  the  repulsion 


.vmmwmm.mmwM;/* 


=^ 


^^yyy^yy^^yyyyyyJJ/^/JJ^^M///77m 


I? 


2^ 


due    to   like   electric   polarity.      The    box     may   be    made    either 
square  or  circular,  of  strawboard,   and   should   be  neatly  covered 


155 

with  colored  paper.  A  ring,  narrower  than  the  height  of  the  box, 
should  be  glued  inside  to  serve  as  a  support  for  the  glass  cover, 
which  is  to  be  held  in  place  by  a  bindihg  of  linen  or  strong  paper. 
Before  fixing  the  glass  in  position,  place  a  number  of  bits,  of  paper 
and  charcoal  (burnt  matches  broken  small)  in  the  box. 

If  the  glass  is  now  rubbed  with  flannel  or  silk  the  paper  and 
charcoal  will  be  attracted  so  forcibly  that  they  will  jump  up  and 
cling  to  the  glass  until  they  become  charged  with  electricity  from 
the  glass  when  they  will  be  as  forcibly  repelled  and  will  continue 
dancing  back  and  forth  for  some  time  or  until  they  have  con- 
ducted away  all  of  the  electricity  from  the  glass  cover.  The  sizes 
of  the  boxes  will  be  determined  by  the  size  of  the  glass  squares  or 
disks  obtainable. 


Apparatus  to  Illustrate  that  the  Angle  of  Reflection 
OF  a  Ray  of  Light  is  Equal  to  the  Angle  of  Incidence. — The 


•  0  0  0  o  o    o 


'±. 


o  ;o  o  o  0  0  OP 


i 


back  piece,  8"  long,  is  made  from  pine  wood  with  a  small  piece  of 
mirror  is  let  into  the  center  flush  with  the  face  of  the  board.  The 
base,  a  semicircle,  is  to  be  made  of  ^"  wood.  The  arc,  made  of 
thin  basswood  or  strawboard,  should  be   divided   before  bending. 


156 

The  divisions  are  shown  as  ten  degrees  apart,  but  may  be  any 
equidistant  spaces.  Holes  are  drilled  at  each  division.  If  now, 
a  light  is  held  near  a  hole  on  either  side  of  the  center  (o),  its 
reflection  can  be  seen  only  through  a  hole  equally  distarit  from  the 
center  on  the  other  side. 

A  Scientific  Top. — In   addition   to   the    endless    amount  of 


amusement  to  be  derived  from  the  spinning  of  tops,  this  form  of 
toy  has  come  to  be  a  most  useful  piece  of  apparatus  for  demon- 
strating certain  laws  of  light  and  of  motion. 

How  many  boys  can  tell  the  reasons  for  the  following  phe- 
nomena of  a  rapidly  spinning  top?  Why  does  it  continue  to 
revolve  after  being  set  in  motion?  Why  does  it  persistently 
remain  in  a  vertical  position  in  spite  of  attempts  to  tip  it  over  to 
one  side?  Why  does  not  a  top  spin  longer  when  its  speed  is 
increased?     Why  does  a  heavy  top  spin  longer  than  a  light  one? 

The  top  shown  has  been  designed  for  use  as  a  manual  training 


157 

exercise  and  is,  therefore,  not  such  an  accurate  or  heavy  instru- 
ment as  is  to  be  found  in  a  physical  laboratory,  but  many  experi- 
ments of  interest  and  value  may  be  performed  with  it  and  the  skill 
necessary  to  produce  a  well  balanced  top  will  teach  a  lesson  in 
care  which  should  be  invaluable. 


Directions  for  Making.  — Cut  out  a  disk  (A)  3"  in  diameter 
from  a  piece  of  wood  about  3-16"  thick.  The  black  squares 
shown  in  the  sectional  view  represent  a  ring  of  lead  which  is 
fastened  to  the  edge  of  disk  A  and  is  placed  there  to   give  weight 


158 

to  the  top,  in  the  same  manner  that  the  rim  of  a  fly-wheel  is  made 
thick  and  heavy  in  order  that  it  may  store  up  energy.  The  ring 
may  be  made  either  by  hammering  a  piece  of  lead  to  the  form  of 
a  long  (lo")  ribbon  and  bending  it  around  the  disk  where  it  is 
nailed  in  place,  or  it  may  be  cast  by  melting  the  lead  and  pouring 
into  a  suitably  prepared  mould  which  is  easily  made  of  wood. 
The  forging  method  is,  however,  the  easiest. 

Having  made  and  fastened  the  rim  in  place,  cut  out  two  disks 
of  thin  wood  3^"  in  diameter  to  be  used  as  covers.  Glue  these 
to  disk  A.  While  the  glue  is  drying,  make  the  spinning  point,  as 
shown,  from  dowel  rods,  and  also  the  ring  for  the  cord  with  which 
the  top  is  to  be  spun.  The  handle  may  also  be  made  at  this  time 
by  drilling  a  hole  into  the  end  of  a  short  dowel  and  driving  into  it 
a  heavy  piece  of  wire.  Now  bore  a  hole  through  the  three  disks. 
This  hole  must  be  exactly  in  the  center  and  must  be  at  right  angles 
to  the  face  of  the  disks.  Glue  the  point  and  spindle  in  place  as 
shown.  Clean  with  sand  paper  and  bind  the  edge  of  the  disk  with 
paper  or  cloth  to  hide  the  lead  rim  and  also  to  prevent  its  becom- 
ing loose. 

Color  disks,  bent  wires  and  pieces  of  cardboard  may  be 
placed  in  the  hollow  of  the  spindle  while  the  top  is  spinning,  and 
will  produce  wonderful  and  beautiful  forms,  which  are  all  due  to 
the  persistence  with  which  the  eye  retains  an  impression. 

LOOMS. 

Cigar- Box  T^oom.^ — Figure  A  represents  the  lines  to  be  drawn 
on  the  cover  of  a  cigar  box,  which,  when  sawed  out,  will  form  the 
uprights  for  supporting  the  rollers.  The  circle  is  to  be  notched 
and  used  as  a  ratchet  when  fastened  by  means  of  brads  to  the  end 
of  one  or  both  of  the  rollers. 

A  nail  driven  through  the  upright  to  engage  the  teeth  of  the 
ratchet  wheel  serves  to  admit  of  tightening  and  winding  of  the 
fabric.     The  roller  may  be  made  from  dowel  rods  or  broom  handles. 

Figure  B  represents  the  best  design  we  have  seen  for  a  Weav- 
ing Shuttle.  It  is  easily  made  of  thin  wood,  either  basswood  or 
a  piece  of  a  cigar  box.  The  curved  arms  at  the  top  will  spring 
sufficiently  apart  to  admit  of  winding  the  yarn.  The  length  of  the 
shuttle  should  be  somewhat  greater  than  the  width  of  the  loom. 


150 

TiiK  Card. — Figure  C  may  be  made  of  strawboard  or  wood. 
Its  length  should  be  less  than  the  distance  between  the  uprights 
of  the  loom,  in  order  that  it  may  be  used  to  press  together  the 
cross  strands  of  the  fabric  while  weaving.  The  distance  between 
the  holes  in  the  card  is  about  %".  No  explanation  is  necessary 
for  the  making  of  the  first  loom  because  of  its  simplicity. 


160 
RUSTIC  WORK. 

In  presenting  the  following  suggestions  for  rustic  work  I  have 


in  mind  the  value,  in  connection  with  the  Nature  Study,  of  bring- 
ing the  products  of  that  study  into  the  school  room,  and  instead 


161 


of  throwing  them  away  as  valueless  after  study  and  discussion,  to 


use  the  withered  twigs,  acorns  and  leaves  for  decoration  and  con- 
struction. The  tools  (a  knife  and  a  hammer)  necessary  for  this 
work  are  so  few  and  simple  that  almost  any  school  can  have  them 


and  the  work  is  of  such  a  nature  that  it  may  be  carried  on  in  the 
ordinary  school  room. 


162 

SUGGESTIONS  FOR  RUSTIC  WORK. 

The  first  is  a  design  for  an  easel  which  is  to  be  made  of  twigs 
which  have  been  whittled  flat  on  one  side.  The  second  is  a  news- 
paper or  music  rack  made  of  branches,  which  are  left  round  with 
the  bark  on  and  merely  cut  to  length  and  nailed  together.  No 
dimensions  are  given,  the  intention  being  that  the  children  will 
make  the  objects  of  such  a  size  as  will  meet  the  requirements  for 
practical  use.  The  rack  may  be  made  as  small  as  the  easel  and 
used  for  holding  envelopes  or  postal  cards  or  it  maybe  made  three 
or  four  feet  high  and  used  for  holding  music  or  newspapers. 

The  flower  basket  is  to  be  made  from  branches  or  twigs  flat- 
tened as  in  the  easel  and  can  be  any  size  from  six  inches  to  three 
feet  high  according  to  its  intended  use,  in  the  house  or  on  the 
lawn.  Thoroughly  dry  twigs  are  better  than  green  branches  for 
rustic  work. 

The  umbrella  stand  is  to  be  made  of  rather  large  branches, 
nailed  together  as  shown,  the  lower  ends  being  firmly  driven  into 
holes  previously  bored  through  the  upper  base  piece.  The  two  hexa- 
gons which  form  the  base  are  to  be  screwed  together  from  under- 
neath. No  dimensions  are  given,  as  it  is  expected  that  each  child 
will  work  out  the  proportions  for  himself. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  objects  which  may  prove  suggestive 
for  rustic  work  : 

Ladder,  stands  for  flower  pots,  saw-horse,  fruit  basket,  pic- 
ture frame,  frame  or  trellis  for  vines,  chair,  either  garden  or  fold- 
ing, garden  seat,  garden  table,  three  legged  stool,  hanging  basket, 
sponge  rack,  waste  paper  basket,  dog  kennel,  bird  house  and  shoe 
box.  The  latter  may  be  made  from  any  old  soap  or  starch  box 
and  covered  with  split  twigs;  it  is  then  a  rather  ornamental  piece 
of  furniture. 

WIRE    WORK. 

The  wire  required  for  this  work  is  tinned-iron  wire,  No.  20, 
S.  W.  G.  (standard  wire  gauge).  The  tinned  wire  costs  slightly 
more  than  either  black  or  bright  wire,  but  is  by  far  the  best  for 
children's  work  because  it  does  not  rust  easily.  Wire  is  sold  in 
coils,  on  spools  or  in  bundles  of  straight  pieces.      The  latter  is  the 


103 

best  for  our  use  for  we  will  not  have  to  straighten  it  as  would  be 
necessary  with  coiled  wire. 

Many  useful  as  well  as  ornamental  articles  canibe  made  from 
wire,  and,  because  of  its  cheapness  and  because  only  one  tool  is 
required  for  its  nranipulation,  wire  work  forms  a  most  useful  sub- 
ject for  manual  training  exercises. 

The  Pliers. — This  tool  is  a  pair  of  pincers  for  cutting,  hold- 
ing and  bending  the  wire.  There  are  several  kinds,  but  a  combi- 
nation of  three  kinds  is  most  suitable  for  our  work.  It  has  a  cut- 
ting edge  that  enables  us  to  cut  the  wire  to  any  desired  length;  it 
has  flat  jaws  for  holding  the  wire  and  for  bending  angles,  and  it 
has  a  round  nose  for  bending  curves. 

Each  pupil  should  be  provided  with  a  pair  of  pliers  and  short 
piece  of  wire.  The  first  lesson  should  consist  in  the  practice  of 
forming  such  shapes  as  A,  B,  C  and  D,  and  also  the  loops  (Fig.  5) 
which  are  used  in  joining  parts  of  a  completed  object. 


T^ROhi'T    ^lE^. 


fl 

> 

( 

Vicj.S. 



164 

Fig.  I  represents  the  shape  to  be  bent  for  a  book  support  and 
its  application  is  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  size  will  be  determined  by 
the  work  to  be  held  by  the  support. 

Fig.  3  and  Fig.  4  show  the  drawing-  and  picture  of  a  hanging 
letter  rack,  made  from  two  pieces  of  wire  joined  t)y  loops,  bent  as- 
in  Fig.  5. 


Fig.  6  represents  a  wire  rack  for  holding  three  test  tubes.  If 
you  are  using  test  tubes  in  your  nature  study  work  you  will  appre- 
ciate the  value  of  this  rack  as  a  constructive  exercise. 


165 

Fig.  7  shows  a  very  simple  pen  or  pencil  rack,  which  is  cap- 
able of  great  variation  in  design,  and  I  would  recommend  that,  if 
made  by  the  class,  each  child  plan  the  shape  to  which  the  legs 
are  to  be  bent. 

Fig.  8  is  the  most  complex  form  we  have  yet  attempted.  It 
represents  a  wire  puzzle,  the  feat  being  to  remove  the  heart  with- 
out bending  any  of  the  wires  or  opening  the  loops.  Loops  A  and 
B  are  to  be  made  small,  just  large  enough  to  admit  the  straight 
piece  of  wire.  Loops  C  and  D  are  to  be  made  large  enough  for 
the  passage  of  the  U  shaped  part  of  the  heart  (E),  but  C  should 
not  be  large  enough  to  allow  D  to  pass  through  it. 

Fig.  9  represents  a  bill  or  memorandum  file  made  of  wire  and 
either  wood  or  pasteboard  for  a  base.  The  two  pieces  for  the 
base  are  hollowed  in  the  center  to  take  the  loop  of  wire  which 
holds  the  spindle  vertically;  the  two  pieces  for  the  base  are  to  be 
fastened  together  with  glue. 


166 


VENETIflN  IFtON   WQHK. 
c 


rig    J.    Forms.  Fiq  2 .     FfdunctMut. 


Fiq  3-    Cai'irinq    Set  5ta.ncl. 


©1 


i® 


I 

i 


6  r^6 


T'vg'   6".     Cancllesticl\.  Fi^  7-    Flciver  Pot  ^tonc/ 


Ft  a  S.     Teu  Pot   ^tand. 


Fl(f    6.  Ha,tging  Basifet 


rig  /O    Picture  Frame, 


'    II    "    ,,    "    ,1     "  ■ 

I  II  II  II  I 


I  II         "TT 


ro 


lajjjjl^  <l1 


Ftqll       Cloc*\     Cait..  r-       ,n       r  I 

'  Fiq/2      Easel 

/?   W  Ey/ihs  Bel. 


Fiq/3-    Coinoiitation    In/i  Settle    ptaiid. 
&.ft  Hancocly.   IJta. 


107 


Paper  Pulp  Map  of 
North  America  made  by 
sixth  grade  pupils  in  the 
Thomas  Hoyne  School. 
This  map  has  been  tinted 
to  show  climatic  condi- 
tions and  is  mounted  up- 
on blue  mounting-board. 


See  page  i68. 


Paper  Pulp  Map  of 
South  America  made  by 
sixth  grade  pupils  in  the 
Thomas  Hoyne  School. 
This  map  has  not  been 
tinted  or  mounted.  It 
shows  the  grain  of  the 
pulp  and  the  marks  of  the 
fingers. 


lOS 
MODELING  IN  PAPER  PULP. 

Paper  pulp  is  a  substance  which  anyone  can  easily  make  and 
use  in  place  of  clay,  sand,  putty  or  plaster  of  Paris  for  making 
relief  maps  and  for  modeling.  The  material  costs  nothing  and  is 
so  clean  and  pleasant  to  work,  it  is  a  wonder  paper  pulp  has  not 
been  more  generally  applied  in  constructive  work. 

MANUFACTURE    OF    PULP. 

To  make  pulp  or  papier-mache,  tear  any  waste  paper,  (news- 
paper or  writing  paper  will  do)  into  pieces  not  more  than  an  inch 
square.  Fill  a  bucket  with  these  bits  of  paper  and  pour  over  it 
about  a  gallon  of  boiling  water.  Let  the  paper  soak  for  five  or  six 
hours  and  then  drain  off  the  excess  water.  If  now  the  mass  of  wet 
paper  is  worked  vigorously  with  a  stick,  churning  it  and  thus  tear- 
ing the  bits  of  paper  very  fine,  you  will  have,  at  the  end  of  a  iew 
minutes,  an  excellent  quality  of  paper  pulp.  The  pupils  will  enjoy 
the  making  as  well  as  the  using  of  this  material. 

MAKING    OF    MAPS. 

To  make  relief  maps,  spread  a  layer  of  pulp  about  one-fourth 
of  an  inch  thick  upon  a  board,  to  somewhat  the  shape  of  the  map 
to  be  made,  and  with  a  small  stick,  or  better  still,  a  clay  modeling 
tool,  press  the  edges  of  the  layer  of  pulp  inward  to  the  correct 
outline,  work  up  the  mountain  ranges,  cut  out  the  rivers  and  lakes 
and  when  through  set  the  board  aside  to  dry.  When  thoroughly 
dry  the  entire  map  can  easily  be  removed  from  the  modeling  board 
and  glued  to  a  sheet  of  strawboard  or  heavy  cardboard. 

TINTING. 

The  map  may  now  be  tinted  with  water  color  paints,  either  to 
show  physical  features  or  political  divisions,  according  as  the 
class  are  studying  elevations,  locations,  products  or  history. 

A  method  frequently  used  to  produce  correct  outlines  is  to 
have  each  pupil  draw  the  map  upon  paper,  erasing  and  correcting 
the  drawing  until  a  satisfactory  outline  is  made.  Then  cut  out 
along  the  boundary  and  use  this  paper  map  as  a  stencil  with  which 
to  draw  the  outline  on  the  modeling  board. 


169 


BOOK    MENDING. 

By  Waldo  Dennis,   Principal  Park  Manor  School. 


TOOLS  AND  MATERIAL  REQUIRED. 

Glue-pot,  Gas  or  Oil  Stove,  Glue  Brush,  Glue,  Paste  Brush, 
Square-end  Knife,  Round-end  Knife,  Needles,  Linen  Thread,  Two 
Awls  (one  straight  and  one  curved).  Tissue  Mending  Strips, 
Opaque  Mending  Strips,  Brass-bound  Ruler,  Marble  Paper,  Lining 
Paper,  Strawboard,  Cloth  for  backs  (cambrick).  Paper  Folder,* 
Book  Press,  and  Book  Sewing  Table,  f 

USE    OF    GLUE. 

The  Glue  used  by  cabinet-makers  is  said  to  be  too  hard  and 
brittle.  For  book  work  a  glue  somewhat  elastic  is  needed. 
Hence  this  should  be  bought  of  parties  supplying  book-binding 
materials. 

Finely  broken  glue  may  be  had,  and  will  be  found  most  con- 
venient. When  heated  the  glue  should  be  about  as  thin  as  thin 
maple  syrup.  If  the  lower  part  of  the  glue-pot  be  kept  well  filled 
with  water,  the  glue,  once  heated,  will  keep  its  heat  the  longer. 
A  brass  or  iron  rod  should  be  kept  standing  in  the  glue-pot.  This 
will  be  found  convenient  for  pressing  out  of  the  brush  the  excess 
of  glue  each  time  before  using  it. 

If  the  pot  is  kept  only  a  third  or  fourth  full,  its  sides  soon 
become  loaded  with  glue;  whereas,  if  the  pot  is  kept  half  or  two- 
thirds  full,  most  of  this  will  dissolve. 

As  the  water  evaporates,  add  more.  If  the  glue  gets  too  thin 
add  more  glue.  Glue  does  not  work  well  when  hot,  because  it 
dries  too  fast.      Children  are  almost  sure  to  use  too  much  glue. 

Paste  should  be  thick.  First  attempts  usually  result  in  its 
being  too  thin.  In  making  paste  it  is  of  chief  importance  to  have 
a  batter,  like  thick  cr^^im,  free  from  lumps.  This  is  best  obtained 
by  the  use  of  warm  water. 

Hence  to  make  paste,  place  a  pint  of  water  on  the  stove.  By 
the  time  you  have   measured  out   four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 

*  See  page  22.         +  See  page  177. 


170 

flour  (nearly  a  pint)  the  water  is  warm  enough  for  making  the  bat- 
ter. By  the  time  the  batter  is  ready  the  remainder  of  the  water  is 
boiling.  Into  this  slowly  pour  the  batter,  and  stir  till  the  paste 
looks  the  same  throughout  (about  a  minute). 

Paste  should  be  used  from  a  low  pan  or  cup.  Otherwise  from 
the  smeared  sides  of  the  pail,  the  handles  of  the  brushes  soon 
become  unpleasant  to  take  hold  of.  I  find  the  cast-off  school 
drinking  cups  make  satisfactory  paste  cups. 

At  the  close  of  the  day,  the  cups  and  brushes  should  be 
washed  out.  This  is  made  earsy  by  allowing  the  cups  to  stand  full 
of  water  till  the  dried  portions  of  paste  soak  soft.  In  using  paste 
children  are  apt  to  use  the  brush  too  lightly.  Their  mistaken 
remedy  for  this  is  to  use  too  much  paste.  Another  fault  quite  as 
general  and  as  mischievous,  is  their  skipping  of  spots,  especially 
along  the  edges  of  a  paper  they  are  covering  with  paste. 

By  reason  of  the  children's  interest  the  work  divides  itself 
into  two  parts.  The  second  and  third  grade  children  like  to  mend 
the  torn  leaves  with  the  strips.  They  do  not  seem  to  tire  of  this 
work.  Older  children  find  it  tedious.  But  they  like  the  work  of 
mending  loose  backs,  making  new  covers,  and  rebinding,  the  very 
work  the  little  ones  are  not  able  to  do.  The  character  of  the 
work  done  by  the  little  ones  is  good.  Being  careful  to  do  just  as 
directed,  their  mending  is  neat  and  otherwise  satisfactory. 


Fig.   I.  Fk;.  2. 

To    teach    the    little  ones   how  to   mend  torn    t.kavks   and- 
EDGES  was  always  to  us  both  a  lark. 


171 

Not  more  than  a  single  class,  of  twenty  or  twenty-five,  should 
be  taught  at  once.  Each  pupil  is  to  select  from  his  desk  a  book, 
in  which  he  is  to  find  a  leaf  to  be  mended. 

Standing  before  them  I  do  some  mending.  Thus  they  quickly 
get  an  idea  of  what  they  are  to  do,  and  how  they  are  to  do  it. 

I  show  them  the  two  kinds  of  strips,  and  explain  that  for 
places  torn  into  the  print  the  tissue  strips  are  used,  because  even 
though  they  cover  up  the  print  we  can  read  through  them.  See 
Figs.  I  and  2.  In  this  first  lesson  the  work  is  entirely  confined  to 
the  mending  with  tissue  paper. 

With  the  brush  I  give  a  part  of  our  pasting-board  (with  us  a 
piece  of  tin)  a  coating  of  paste;  I  then  cut  over  this  a  few  tissue 
strips  into  different  lengths.  These  fall  upon  the  pasted  surface 
and  are  then  carefully  smoothed  out,  so  that  the  paste  comes  into 
contact  with  every  part  of  their  under  surface.  Having  selected  a 
torn  leaf  from  the  many  offered,  I  peel  off  the  tin  a  tissue  strip  of 
the  right  length.  The  torn  edges  are  brought  carefully  together, 
and  are  then  neatly  covered  by  the  strip.  A  piece  of  paper  at 
hand  for  the  purpose,  is  laid  over  the  strip.  This  is  rubbed  with 
a  firm  pressue  till  the  strip  is  so  smooth  and  transparent  that  it 
scarcely  shows.  That  the  strips  look  clean  and  fresh  when  dry, 
the  fingers  should  touch  them  as  little  as  possible. .  A  piece  of 
paper  kept  for  the  purpose  should  always  intervene. 


Vh:.  3.  Fig.  4. 

Next,  each  pupil  is  ready  to  try  his  own  hand  at  the  work. 
I    give    the    tin    a    new   coating    of  paste,   and    more  strips, 


172 

smoothe  them  down  into  the  paste,  and  pass  these  around  among 
the  pupils  according  to  their  needs.  They  select  their  strips 
according  to  the  places  to  be  mended,  and  as  they  peel  them  off,  I 
direct  how  to  use  them.  The  work  moves  on  with  spirit,  the 
demand  for  slips  being  greater  than  the  supply.  The  dismissing 
gong  sounds,  buteven  that  does  not  stop  the  work. 

One  lesson  sufifices  for  this  part  of  the  work.  The  next  one, 
conducted  in  the  same  way,  teaches  how  to  mend  mutilated  edges 
with  the  strong  opaque  strips,  Figs,  3  and  4.  In  this,  the  precau- 
tions for  neatness  are  the  same.  The  strips  must  be  pressed  and 
rubbed  till  perfectly  smooth,  but  always  with  the  intervening 
paper.  The  edge  of  the  strip  must  be  brought  exactly  to  the  edge 
of  the  leaf.  A  book,  like  a  boy,  neatly  patched  is  perfectly  re- 
spectable— and  slovenly  patched  always  meets  with  disapproval. 

If  strips  dry  on  the  tin  before  they  can  be  used,  and  refuse  to 
peel  off,  brush  them  over  with  paste.  In  a  minute  or  two,  from 
the  absorbed  moisture,  they  will  come  off  readily. 

Sometimes  a  piece  of  the  leaf  is  gone.  If  this  be  covered 
with  a  pasted  strip,  a  piece  of  paper  must  be  inserted  below  to 
prevent  the  paste's  going  to  the  lower  leaf. 

Replacing  loose  leaves  can  scarcely  be  done  by  weak  hands. 


The  difficulty  is  to  push    the   leaf  as   far   into  the  back  as  it  was 
originally,  so  that   its   edges  will   not   stick   out   beyond  the  rest. 


173 

The  best  device  I  found  for  this,  was  a  piece  of  Russia  iron,  Figs. 
5  and  6.  It  should  be  longer  than  the  leaf,  and  wide  enough  to 
be  easily  manipulated.  Place  one  edge  of  the  iron  on  the  loose 
leaf  within  one-eighth  or  one-twelfth  of  an  inch  of  the  edge  to  be 
pasted  (the  inner  edge).  With  the  leaf  and  iron  held  together,  fold 
them  over  together,  flat  upon  the  table.  Thus  the  projecting  edge 
is  turned  under.      Run  your  thumb  along  this  edge  to  crease  it. 

Take  it  up  and  apply  paste  sparingly  to  this  little  folded  edge. 
By  means  of  the  sheet  iron  insert  the  leaf  to  its  place,  pushing  it 
down  into  the  back  till  its  edges  are  even  with  those  of    the  book. 

Two  adjacent  loose  leaves  should  be  fastened  together  by  a 
strip,  and  then  by  the  sheet  iron  pushed  down  into  the  back  where 
they  belong.  Where  there  are  several  loose  adjacent  leaves,  they 
should  be  built  into  a  section,  sewed,  pasted  and  pushed  down  into 
the  back. 

Sometimes  it  is  justifiable,  instead  of  building  up  a  section  by 
pasting  opposite  leaves  together,  to  sew  them  together  by  neatly 
overcasting  their  inner  edges.  Care  must  be  used  not  to  take  the 
stitches  deeply  into  the  margin  as  this  would  prevent  the  leaves 
opening  properly. 

Loose  leaves  where  margins  have  been  mended  must  dry 
under  pressure,  otherwise  they  will  be  very  much  out  of  shape 
when  dry. 

To  put  in  an  'Mnsheet"  so  improves  the  appearance  of  an  old 
book  that  it  pays,  especially  as  the  cost  is  but  the  fraction  of  a 
cent.  Those  who  can,  should  learn  to  do  this  by  seeing  it  done, 
and  then  by  doing  it  under  supervision. 

The  insheet  is  the  double  blank  sheet,  next  to  the  cover,  one- 
half  of  it  being  pasted  to  the  cover,  the  other  half  free.  They 
should  be  cut  a  trifle  large  and  trimmed  to  exact  size  after  being 
fastened  in  place.  Cut  and  fold  in  the  middle.  Paste  a  narrow 
streak  on  the  edge  of  the  fold,  and  press  this  folded  edge  well  up 
under  the  edge  of  the  cover;  close  the  cover  and  let  dry  while  you 
fix  the  opposite  one.  When  the  insheet  is  dry,  so  that  it  is  well 
fastened,  trim  it  with  a  knife;  trim  the  lower  one  first,  by  inserting 
under  it  a  piece  of  pasteboard  to  cut  into,  and  above  it  the  brass 
ruler  as  a  guide  for  the  knife,  the  ruler  being  placed  exactly  even 
with  the  edges  of  the  book. 


174 

To  paste  the  outer  sheet  to  the  cover  apply  paste  to  the  paper 
and  close  the  lid  down  over  it,  pressing  thoroughly.  When  the 
lid  is  lifted  the  insheet  comes  with  it,  and  the  work  is  done. 

Examine  several  books  to  see  how  the  insheets  have  been 
put  in. 

This  and  the  following  work  was  taught  in  the  othce  to  one  or 
two  at  a  time,  as  other  work  permitted.  When  I  found  one  with 
a  special  aptitude  for  the  work  I  made  of  him  a  teacher  for  the 
guidance  of  others. 

What  to  do  for  a  book  with  \  loose  back  is  puzzling  to  an 
amateur.  Each  case  has  to  be  treated  on  its  own  merits.  The 
best  training  for  this  kind  of  surgery  is  to  carefully  examine  some 
new  books  along  with  some  old  and  loose  ones.  This  brings  you 
face  to  face  with  the  commonplace  fact  that  the  book  is  held  to 
its  cover  by  glue.  If  the  cover  is  loose  the  glue  has  given  way 
somewhere.  But  how  to  get  at  the  place?  The  brush  can't  be 
poked  into  the  middle  of  the  back  from  one  end.  To  effect  the 
needed  remedy  you  have  to  cut  down  far  enough  to  lay  bare  the 
weakness.  One  side  of  the  cover  must  be  entirely  detached  from 
the  book.  This  enables  you  to  get  at  both  sides  freely.  By  run- 
ning a  sharp  knife  along  the  edge  of  the  cloth,  easily  seen  under 
the  paper,  about  an  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  cover,  the  cloth 
which  comes  off  with  the  book  will  peel  from  the  cover  with  a 
straight  edge  and  can  be  as  neatly  glued  in  place  again. 

By  carefully  examining  a  few  books  some  will  be  found  with 
the  back  proper  free  from  the  back  of  the  book  and  others  free  in 
no  particular,  but  tightly  glued  to  the  back  of  the  book  through- 
out.    In  mending  a  book  follow  the  plan  upon  which  it  was  made. 

A  loose  back  being  a  trifle  too  large  for  a  tight  back,  if  made 
into  the  latter  will  distress  the  mender  with  its  wrinkles. 

To  give  a  paper  bound  book  a  boanl  cover,  it  must  be  un- 
derstood that  the  back  must  bend  where  the  leaves  bend.  Hence, 
give  a  pupil  two  books  for  study:  one  that  has  been  sewed,  and 
one  that  has  been  fastened  with  staples.  Show  him  how  much 
closer  the  lids  come  to  the  back  in  one  case  than  in  the  other.  If 
you  can  have  him  work  out  why  this  is,  theie  will  be  a  saving  for 
him  of  many  mistakes,  and  for  you  of  much  explaining  and 
directing. 


175 

If  it  is  not  plain  to  you,  you  can  easily  make  it  so  by  the  two 
experiments  of  fastening  the  cover  an  inch  above,  and  then  an  inch 
below  the  staples,  noting  how  this  cover  opens  in  each  case. 

Whenever  a  straight,  smooth  edge  is  required  of  paper  or 
board,  do  the  cutting  with  the  knife,  not  the  scissors.  Use  a 
brass  ruler  as  a  guide  for  the  knife.  In  cutting  board  don't  feel 
that  it  must  be  done  by  one  stroke  of  the  knife.  Be  sure  only  that 
the  knife  follows  the  same  track  each  time.  However  lightly  the 
pressure,  the  knife  will  in  time  make  its  way  through.  Don't  press 
so  hard  that  a  few  minutes'  use  of  the  knife  will  cause  blisters. 
Make  of  cutting,  not  hard,  but  easy  workc 

Rebinding  a  book  proceeds  thus:  The  cover  is  made;  it  is 
fastened  to  the  book;  it  is  then  covered,  and  finally  receives  its 
insheets. 

To  get  the  back  on  the  book  sciuarely,  keep  it  straight  with 
the  edge  of  the  table  as  you  work. 

The  correct  distance  between  the  lids  of  the  covers,  as  they 
lie  to  receive  the  cloth-back,  is  a  very  important  measurement. 
To  get  it,  wrap  closely  around  the  back  of  the  book,  a  piece  of 
paper.  Clamp  this  firmly  to  the  sides  of  the  book  by  the  lids  in 
their  proper  place.  Run  a  pencil  along  the  back  edges  of  the 
boards  where  they  come  to  the  paper,  and  you  have  your  measure. 

Lay  this  on  the  table  so  that  when  the  boards  are  laid  to  the 
marks  they  will  be  straight  with  the  edge  of  the  table.  To  make 
the  work  easy  for  the  children's  hands,  fasten  the  boards  thus  in 
proper  position,  by  small  clamps  to  the  table.  Then  they  will  not 
get  out  of  square  in  gluing.  The  cloth-back  should  be  longer  than 
the  cover,  to  allow  of  folding  over  at  each  end.  Its  width 
depends  on  how  wide  a  strip  of  cloth  you  like  to  see  on  the  back 
of  your  book.  Lay  the  cloth-back  where  it  belongs  on  the  boards 
and  mark,  that  you  may  know  how  wide  a  strip  on  your  boards 
to  glue  for  it.  Use  the  glue  very  sparingly,  but  thoroughly,  that 
your  cloth  does  not  get  mussy  and  pulled.  Never,  if  avoidable, 
apply  paste  or  glue  to  material  that  will  ^'strike  through"  quickly. 
Always  use  protecting  sheets  to  confine  the  glue  exactly  to  the 
strips  where  it  is  needed. 

While  the  cover  thus  made  is  drying,  cut  a  similar  piece  of 
cloth,  but  shorter  than   the   book,  to  be   glued    to  the   back  of  it. 


176 

Before  doing  this,  remove  all  old  glue  and  loose  shreds.  This  is 
best  done  by  alternately  pounding  and  scraping  the  back.  When 
clean,  apply  glue,  driving  the  brush  hard  so  as  to  force  the  glue 
well  in  between  the  sections.  Place  the  glued  back  in  the  middle 
of  the  strip  of  cloth  prepared  for  it,  and  by  pressing  and  rubbing, 
bring  every  part  of  the  cloth  down  into  the  glue,  being  especially 
careful  to  have  the  cloth  adhere  strongly  at  the  edges.  To  ensure 
the  last,  let  the  book  dry  in  press.  In  press,  the  back  should  pro- 
ject free  from  the  pressing  boards;  but  the  free  cloth  edges  should 
be  held  down  by  the  pressing  boards,  tightly  against  the  edges  of 
the  back. 

When  dry,  the  book  may  be  placed  within  the  cover.  In 
doing  this,  the  only  parts  to  receive  glue,  are  strips  on  the  inner 
parts  of  the  boards  which  the  free  cloth  edges  belonging  to  the 
back  of  the  book  mark  for  their  own.  Mark  how  far  out  the 
cloth  edges  come;  with  protecting  sheet  apply  glue,  and  bring 
the  surfaces  together  by  closing  down  the  lid  of  the  book.  In  do- 
ing this,  have  the  book  pressed  well  back  into  the  cover  equally 
distant  from  each  end.  With  the  thumb  crease  down  the  cloth  at 
the  edge  of  the  board,  so  that  every  part  of  the  cloth  of  the  back 
and  the  cover  shall  be  thoroughly  glued  together  and  utilized  for 
strength. 

When  finished,  the  book  should  dry  in  press.  If  the  glue 
has  been  used  sparingly,  it  may  be  taken  from  press  in  a  few 
hours.  Otherwise  it  should  remain  there  over  night.  To  avoid 
surfaces  sticking  together  that  should  not,  protecting  sheets  should 
be  inserted  freely. 

To  PUT  ON  THE  MARBLE  PAPER  usc  paste,  applying  this  to  the 
paper.  A  careful  examination  of  a  book  bound  in  boards  will 
render  further  directions  needless,  except  that  the  corners  will  be 
puzzling  till  they  are  cut  off  with  the  shears  within  a  third  of  an 
inch  of  the  corner  of  the  board.  These  are  cut  off  more  conven- 
iently after  the  paper  has  been  pasted  to  the  board,  when  ready  to 
turn  the  edges. 

When  the  book  has  been  covered  with  marble  paper,  it  is 
ready  for  its  insheets. 

Only  the  cheapest  materials  have  been  used  in  our  work;  hence 
nothing  has  been  said  of  what  the  work  would  be  with  any  other. 


y.y^/1     'ir'.W/NG   771/ J ^iL 


jijir^/i^s  Jjii 


C  5  ivcas  Jjts 


P/ISTING    nOLLEH 


Section  M/l 


Chaa.  S    Irons,  Ueji, 


179 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  IMPORTANT  WOODS 
OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

[arranged  alphabetically.] 


A.— CONIFEROUS    WOODS. 

Woods  of  simple  and  uniform  structure,  generally  light,  soft 
but  stiff;  abundant  in  suitable  dimensions  and  forming  by  far  the 
greatest  part  of  all  the  lumber  used. 

CEDAR — Light,  soft,  stiff,  not  strong,  of  fine  texture;  sap  and 
heartwood  distinct,  the  former  lighter,  the  latter  a  dull,  grayish 
brown,  or  red.  The  wood  seasons  rapidly,  shrinks  and  checks 
but  little,  and  is  very  durable.  Used  like  soft  pine,  but  owing  to 
its  great  durability  preferred  for  shingles,  etc.  Small  sizes  used 
for  posts,  ties,  etc.*  Cedars  usually  Occur  scattered,  but  they 
form,  in  certain  localities,  forests  of  considerable  extent. 

a.   White  Cedars. — Heartwood  a  light  grayish  brown. 

1.  White  cedar  {Thuya  occidentalis)  (Arborvitae):  Scattered 
along  streams  and  lakes,  frequently  covering  extensive  swamps; 
rarely  large  enough  for  lumber,  but  commonly  used  for  posts, 
ties,  etc.      Maine  to  Minnesota  and  northward. 

2.  Canoe  cedar  {Thuya  gigantea)  (red  cedar  of  the  West):  In 
Oregon  and  Washington  a  very  large  tree,  covering  extensive 
swamps;  in  the  mountains  much  smaller,  skirting  the  water 
courses;  an  important  lumber  tree.  Washington  to  northern 
California  and  eastward  to  Montana. 

3.  White  cedar  {Chamcecyparis  ihyoides):  Medium-sized  tree, 
wood  very  light  and  soft.  Along  the  coast  from  Maine  to 
Mississippi. 

4.  White  cedar  {Chamcecyparis  lawsoniand)  (Port  Oxford  cedar, 
Oregon  cedar,  Lawson's  cypress,  ginger  pine):  A  very  large 
tree,  extensively  cut  for  lumber;  heavier  and  stronger  than 
the  preceding.     Along  the  coast  line  of  Oregon. 

*  Since  almost  all  kinds  of  woods  are  used  for  fuel  and  charcoal,  and  in  the  construction  of 
fences,  sheds,  barns,  etc.,  the  enumeration  of  these  uses  has  been  omitted  in  this  list. 


180 

5-  White  cedar  (^Libocedrns  decun-ens^  (incense  cedar):  A  large 
tree,  abundantly  scattered  among  pine  and  fir;  wood  fine 
grained.  Cascades  and  Sierra  Nevada  of  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia. 

b.   Red  Cedars. — Heartwood  red. 

6.  Red  cedar  {Juniperus  virginiand)  (Savin  juniper):  Similar 
to  white  cedar,  but  of  somewhat  finer  texture.  Used  in  cab- 
inetwork in  cooperage,  for  veneers,  and  especially  for  lead 
pencils,  for  which  purpose  alone  several  million  feet  are  cut 
each  year.  A  small  to  medium  sized  tree  scattered  through 
the  forests,  or,  in  the  West,  sparsely  covering  extensive  areas 
(cedar  brakes).  The  red  cedar  is  the  most  widely  distributed 
conifer  of  the  United  States,  occurring  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Pacific  and  from  Florida  to  Minnesota,  but  attains  a  suit- 
able size  for  lumber  only  in  the  Southern,  and  more  especially 
the  Gulf,  States. 

7.  Redwood  {Sequoia  se77ipervirens)\  Wood  in  its  quality  and 
uses  like  white  cedar;  the  narrow  sapwood  whitish;  the  heart- 
wood  light  red,  soon  turning  to  brownish  red  when  exposed. 
A  very  large  tree,  limited  to  the  coast  ranges  of  California, 
and  forming  considerable  forests,  which  are  rapidly  being 
converted  into  lumber. 

CYPRESS. 

8.  Cypress  {Taxodium  distichuj?i)  (bald  cypress;  black,  white, 
and  red  cypress):  Wood  in  appearance,  quality,  and  uses 
similar  to  white  cedar.  "Black  cypress"  and  "white  cypress" 
are  heavy  and  light  forms  of  the  same  species.  The  cypress 
is  a  large  deciduous  tree  occupying  much  of  the  swamp  and 
overflow  land  along  the  coast  and  rivers  of  the  Southern 
States. 

FIR. — This  name  is  frequently  applied  to  wood  and  to  trees  which 
are  not  fir;  most  commonly  to  spruce,  but  also,  especially 
in  English  markets,  to  pine.  It  resembles  spruce,  but  is  easily 
distinguished  from  it,  as  well  as  from  pine  and  larch,  by  the 
absence  of  resin  ducts.  Quality,  uses,  and  habits  similar  to 
spruce. 
9.   Balsam  fir  {Abies  balsamed):     A  medium-sized  tree  scat- 


181 

tered  throughout  the  northern  pineries;  cut,  in  lumber  opera- 
tions, whenever  of  sufficient  size,  and  sold  with  pine  or  spruce. 
Minnesota  to  Maine  and  northward. 

10.  White  fir  {^Abies  gratidis  and  Abies  concolory.  Medium  to 
very  large  sized  tree,  forming  an  important  part  of  most  of  the 
Western  mountain  forests,  and  furnishing  much  of  the  lumber 
of  the  respective  regions.  The  former  occurs  from  Vancouver 
to  central  California  and  eastward  to  Montana;  the  latter 
from  Oregon  to  Arizona  and  eastward  to  Colorado  and  New 
Mexico. 

11.  White  fir  (^Abies  amabilisy  Good-sized  tree  often  form- 
ing extensive  mountain  forests.  Cascade  Mountains  of  Wash- 
ington and  Oregon. 

12.  Red  fir  [Abies  nobilis)  (not  to  be  confounded  with  Doug- 
las fir;  see  No.  37):  Large  to  very  large  tree,  forming  with 
A.  amabilis  extensive  forests  on  the  slope  of  the  mountains 
between  3,000  and  4,000  feet  elevation.  Cascade  Mountains 
of  Oregon. 

13.  Red  fir  {Abies  inagnificay.  Very  large  tree,  forming  forests 
about  the  base  of  Mount  Shasta.  Sierra  Nevada  of  Califor- 
nia, from  Mount  Shasta  southward. 

HEMLOCK.^Light  to  medium  weight,  soft,  stiff,  but  brittle, 
commonly  crossgrained,  rough  and  splintery;  sapwood  and 
heartwood  not  well  defined;  the  wood  of  a  light  reddish-gray 
color,  free  from  resin  ducts,  moderately  durable,  shrinks  and 
warps  considerably,  wears  rough,  retains  nails  firmly.  Used 
principally  for  dimension  stuff  and  timbers.  Hemlocks  are 
medium  to  large  sized  trees,  commonly  scattered  among  broad- 
leaved  trees  and  conifers,  but  often  forming  forests  of  almost 
pure  growth. 

14.  Hemlock  {Tsuga  canadensis):  Medium-sized  tree,  furnishes 
almost  all  the  hemlock  of  the  Eastern  market.  Maine  to 
Wisconsin;  also  following  the  Alleghanies  southward  to  Geor- 
gia and  Alabama. 

15.  Hemlock  [Tsitga  mertensiana):  Large-sized  tree,  wood 
claimed  to  be  heavier  and  harder  than  the  eastern  form  and 
of  superior  quality.  Washington  to  California  and  eastward 
to  Montana. 


182 

LARCH  OR  TAMARACK.— Wood  like  the  best  of  hard  pine, 
both  in  appearance,  quality,  and  uses,  and  owing  to  its  great 
durability,  somewhat  preferred  in  ship  building,  for  telegraph 
poles,  and  railroad  ties.  In  its  structure  it  resembles  spruce. 
The  larches  are  deciduous  trees,  occasionally  covering  consider- 
able areas,  but  usually  scattered  among  other  conifers. 
i6.   Tamarack  (Larix  ameri'cana)  {Ha.ckm3ita.ck):   Medium-sized 

tree,  often  covering  swamps,  in  which  case  it  is  smaller  and 

of   poor    quality.      Maine    to    Minnesota    and    southward    to 

Pennsylvania. 
17.   Tamarack   (Z.   occidentalis):     Large-sized  trees,   scattered, 

locally  abundant.      Washington  and  Oregon  to  Montana. 

PINE. — Very  variable,  very  light  and  soft  in  ''soft"  pine,  such  as 
white  pine;  of  medium  weight  to  heavy  and  quite  hard  in  ''hard" 
pine,  of  which  longleaf  or  Georgia  pine  is  the  extreme  form. 
Usually  it  is  stiff,  quite  strong,  of  even  texture,  and  more  or 
less  resinous.  The  sapwood  is  yellowish  white;  the  heartwood, 
orange  brown.  Pine  shrinks  moderately,  seasons  rapidly  and 
without  much  injury;  it  works  easily;  is  never  too  hard  to  nail  ( un- 
like oak  or  hickory);  it  is  mostly  quite  durable,  and  if  well  sea- 
soned is  not  subject  to  the  attacks  of  boring  insects.  The  heavier 
the  wood,  the  darker,  stronger,  and  harder  it  is,  and  the  more 
it  shrinks  and  checks.  Pine  is  used  more  extensively  than  any 
other  kind  of  wood.  It  is  the  principal  wood  in  common  car- 
pentry, as  well  as  in  all  heavy  construction,  bridges,  trestles, 
etc.  It  is  also  used  in  almost  every  other  wood  industry,  for 
spars,  masts,  planks,  and  timbers  in  shipbuilding,  in  car  and 
wagon  construction,  in  cooperage,  for  crates  and  boxes,  in  fur- 
niture work,  for  toys  and  patterns,  railway  ties,  water  pipes, 
excelsior,  etc.  Pines  are  usually  large  trees  with  few  branches, 
the  straight,  cylindrical,  useful  stem  forming  by  far  the  greatest 
part  of  the  tree;  they  occur  gregariously,  forming  vast  forests, 
a  fact  which  greatly  facilitates  their  exploitation.  Of  the  many 
special  terms  applied  to  pine  as  lumber,  denoting  sometimes 
differences  in  quality,  the  following  deserve  attention  : 

"  White  pine,"  "pumpkin  pine,"  "soft  pine,"  in  the  Eastern 
markets  refer  to  the  wood  of  the  white  pine  {Pinus  strobus) 


183 

and  on  the  Pacific  coast  to  that  of  the  sugar  pine  {Pinus 
lamberiiana ). 
<*  Yellow  pine"  is  applied  in  the  trade  to  all  the  Southern  lum- 
ber pines;  in  the  Northeast  it  is  also  applied  to  the  pitch 
pine  {P.  rigida);  in  the  West  it  refers  mostly  to  bull  pine 
(  P.  ponderosa ) . 
*' Yellow    longleaf   pine,"    ''Georgia    pine,"  chiefly    used    in 

advertisement,  refers  to  longleaf  pine  {P.  palustris). 
"  Hard  pine"  is  a  common  term  in  carpentry,  and  applies  to 

everything  except  white  pine. 
''  Pitch  pine"  includes  all  Southern  pines  and  also  the  true 
pitch  pine  {P.  rigida),  but  is  mostly  applied,  especially  in 
foreign  markets,  to  the  wood  of  the  longleaf  pine  {P.  palus- 
tris ) . 
For  the  great  variety  of  confusing  local  names  applied  to  the 
Southern  pines  in  their  homes,  part  of  which   have  been  adopted 
in  the  markets  of   the   Atlantic   seaboard,  see  report  of  Chief  of 
Division   of   Forestry  for    1891,  page   212,  etc.,  and    also    the   list 
below  : 

a.  Soft  Pines. 

18.  White  pine  (P/m/s  strobus^-.  Large  to  very  large  sized  tree; 
for  the  last  fifty  years  the  most  important  timber  tree  of  the 
Union,  furnishing  the  best  quality  of  soft  pine.  Minnesota, 
Wisconsin,  Michigan,  New  England,  along  the  Alleghanies  to 
Georgia. 

19.  Sugar  PINE  [Pmus lainbertiana)-.  A  very  large  tree,  together 
with  Abies  concolor,  forming  extensive  forests;  important  lum- 
ber tree.     Oregon  and  California. 

20.  White  pine  {Pinus  7noniicola)\  A  large  tree,  at  home  in 
Montana,  Idaho,  and  the  Pacific  States;  most  common  and 
locally  used  in  Northern  Idaho. 

21.  White  pine  {Pinus  flexilis):  A  small  tree,  forming  moun- 
tain forests  of  considerable  extent  and  locally  used;  Eastern 
Rocky  Mountain  slopes;  Montana  to  New  Mexico. 

b.  Hard  Pines. 

22.  Longleaf  pine  {Pinus  palustris)  (Georgia  pine,  yellow 
pine,  long  straw  pine,  etc.  ):   Large  tree;  forms  extensive  for- 


184 

ests  and  furnishes   the  hardest   and  strongest  pine  lumber  in 
the  market.      Coast  region  from  North  Carolina  to  Texas. 

23.  Bull  pine  {Pinus  ponderosa)  (yellow  pine):  Medium  to 
very  large  sized  tree,  forming  extensive  forests  in  Pacific  and 
Rocky  Mountain  regions;  furnishes  most  of  the  hard  pine  of 
the  West;  sapwood  wide;  wood  very  variable. 

24.  Loblolly  pine  {Finus  tceda)  (slash  pine,  old  field  pine, 
rosemary  pine,  sap  pine,  short  straw  pine,  etc.  ):  Large-sized 
tree,  forms  extensive  forests;  wider  ringed,  coarser,  lighter, 
softer,  with  more  sapwood  than  the  longleaf  pine,  but  the 
two  often  confounded.  This  is  the  common  lumber  pine 
from  Virginia  to  South  Carolina,  and  is  found  extensively  in 
Arkansas  and  Texas.  Southern  States;  Virginia  to  Texas  and 
Arkansas. 

25.  Norway  pine  {Piniis  resinosa):  Large-sized  tree,  never 
forming  forests,  usually  scattered  or  in  small  groves,  together 
with  white  pine;  largely  sapwood  and  hence  not  durable. 
Minnesota  to  Michigan;  also  in  New  England  to  Pennsylvania. 

26.  Shortleaf  pine  [Pinus  echinata)  (slash  pine,  Carolina 
pine,  yellow  pine,  old  field  pine,  etc.):  Resembles  loblolly 
pine;  often  approaches  in  its  wood  the  Norway  pine.  The 
common  lumber  pine  of  Missouri  and  Arkansas.  North  Car- 
olina to  Texas  and  Missouri. 

27.  Cuban  pine  {Pinus  Cubensis)  (slash  pine,  swamp  pine,  bas- 
tard pine,  meadow  pine):  Resembles  longleaf  pine,  but  com- 
monly has  wider  sapwood  and  coarser  grain;  does  not  enter 
the  markets  to  any  great  extent.  Along  the  coast  from  South 
Carolina  to  Louisiana. 

28.  Bull  vm^  {Pinus  Jeffrey i)  (black  pine):  Large-sized  tree, 
wood  resembling  bull  pine  {P.  ponderosa);  used  locally  in 
California,  replacing  P.  potiderosa  at  high  altitudes. 

The  following  are  small  to  medium  sized  pines,  not   commonly 
offered  as  lumber  in  the  market;  used  locally  for  timber,  ties,  etc. : 

29.  Black  pine  [Pinus  murrayana)  (lodge-pole  pine,  tamarack): 
Rocky  Mountains  and  Pacific  regions. 

30.  Pitch  pine  {Pinus  rigida)\  Along  the  coast  from  New  York 
to  Georgia  and  along  the  mountains  to  Kentucky. 

31.  Jersey  pine  {Pinus  inops)  (scrub  pine):  As  before. 


185 

32.  Gray  piy:E  {Pi;n/s  l^a/iA'siafid)  (scrub  pine):  Maine,  \'ermont, 
and  Michigan  to  Minnesota. 

REDWOOD.     (6"^^  Cedar.) 

SPRUCE. — Resembles  soft  pine,  is  light,  very  soft,  stiff,  moder- 
ately strong,  less  resinous  than  pine;  has  no  distinct  heartwood, 
and  is  of  whitish  color.  Used  like  soft  pine,  but  also  employed 
as  resonance  wood  and  preferred  for  paper  pulp.  Spruces,  like 
pines,  form  extensive  forests;  they  are  more  frugal,  thrive  on 
thinner  soils,  and  bear  more  shade,  but  usually  require  a  more 
humid  climate.  ''Black"  and  ''white  spruce,"  as  applied  by 
lumbermen,  usually  refer  to  narrow  and  wide  ringed  forms  of 
the  black  spruce  {Picea  nigra). 

2^^^.  Black  spruce  {Picea  nigra):  Medium-sized. tree,  forms  ex- 
tensive forests  in  northeastern  United  States  and  in  British 
America;  occurs  scattered  or  in  groves,  especially  in  low 
lands  throughout  the  Northern  pineries.  Important  lumber 
tree  in  Eastern  United  States.  Maine  to  Minnesota,  British 
America,  and  on  the  Alleghanies  to  North  Carolina. 

34.  White  spruce  {Picea  alba):  Generally  associated  with 
the  preceding;  most  abundant  along  streams  and  lakes,  grows 
largest  in  Montana  and  forms  the  most  important  tree  of  the 
subarctic  forest  of  British  America.  Northern  United  States, 
from  Maine  to  Minnesota,  also  from  Montana  to  Pacific, 
British  America. 

35.  White  spruce  {Picea  engelmanni):  Medium  to  large-sized 
tree,  forming  extensive  forests  at  elevations  from  5,000  to 
10,000  feet  above  sea  level;  resembles  the  preceding,  but 
ccupies  a  different  station.  A  very  important  timber  tree  in 
the  central  and  Southern  parts  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Rocky  Mountains  from  Mexico  to  Montana. 

36.  Tide-land  spruce  (Picea  sitchensis):  A  large-sized  tree, 
forming  an  extensive  coast-belt  forest.  Along  the  seacoast 
from  Alaska  to  Central  California. 

BASTARD  SPRUCE.— Spruce  or  fir  in  name  but  resembling 
hard  pine  or  larch  in  the  appearance,  quality,  and  uses  of  its 
wood. 

37.  Douglas    spruce    {Pseudotsuga  douglasii)    (yellow  fir,  red 


186 
fir,  Oregon  pine):  One  of  the  most  important  trees  of  the 
Western  United  States;  grows  very  large  in  the  Pacific  States, 
to  fair  size  in  all  parts  of  the  mountains,  in  Colorado  up  to 
about  10,000  feet  above  sea  level;  forms  extensive  forests, 
often  of  pure  growth.  Wood  very  variable,  usually  coarse- 
grained and  heavy,  with  very  pronounced  summer  wood,  hard 
and  strong  (  "red"  fir),  but  often  fine-grained  and  light  (  "yel- 
low" fir).  It  replaces  hard  pine  and  is  especially  suited  to 
heavy  construction.  From  the  plains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean; 
from  Mexico  to  British  America. 

TAMARACK.      (See  Larch.  ) 

xYEW. — Wood  heavy,  hard,  extremely  stiff  and  strong,  of  fine 
texture  with  a  pale  yellow  sapwood,  and  an  orange  red  heart; 
seasons  well  and  is  quite  durable.  Yew  is  extensively  used  for 
archery,  bows,  turner's  ware,  etc.  The  yews  form  no  forests, 
but  occur  scattered  with  other  conifers. 

;^8.   Yew  {Tuxns  brevifolia):     A  small  to  medium-sized  tree  of 
the  Pacific  region. 

B.-  BROAD-LEAVED  WOODS   (HARDWOODS). 

Woods  of  complex  and  very  variable  structure  and  therefore 
differing  widely  in  quality,  behavior,  and  consequently  in  applica- 
bility to  the  arts. 

ASH. --Wood  heavy,  hard,  strong,  stiff,  quite  tough,  not  durable, 
in  contact  with  soil,  straight  grained,  rough  on  the  split  surface 
and  coarse  in  texture.  The  wood  shrinks  moderately,  seasons 
with  little  injury,  stands  well  and  takes  a  good  polish.  In  car- 
pentry ash  is  used  for  finishing  lumber,  stairways,  panels,  etc.; 
it  is  used  in  shipbuilding,  in  the  construction  of  cars,  wagons, 
carriages,  etc.,  in  the  manufacture  of  farm  implements,  machin- 
ery, and  especially  of  furniture  of  all  kinds,  and  also  for  harness 
work;  for  barrels,  baskets,  oars,  tool  handles,  hoops,  clothes- 
pins, and  toys.  The  trees  of  the  several  species  of  ash  are  rapid 
growers,  of  small  to  medium  height  with  stout  trunks;  they  form 
no  forests,  but  occur  scattered  in  almost  all  our  broad-leaved 
forests. 
39.    White    ash    [Fraxinus   americana):      Medium,    sometimes 


18T 

large  sized  tree.      Basin  of  the  Ohio,  but  found  from  Maine  to 
Minnesota  and  Texas. 

40.  Red  ASH  (Fraxini/s  pnbescens)\  Small-sized  tree.  North 
Atlantic  States,  but  extends  to  the  Mississippi. 

41.  Black  ash  (  Fraxiniis  sambucifolia  )  (  hoop  ash,  ground 
ash):  Medium-sized  tree,  very  common.  Maine  to  Minne- 
sota, and  southward  to  Virginia  and  Arkansas. 

42.  Blue  ash  { Fraxtntis  quadrangulaia):  Small  to  medium 
sized.  Indiana  and  Illinois;  occurs  from  Michigan  to  Minne- 
sota and  southward  to  Alabama. 

43.  Green  ash  {Fraxinus  viridis)  Small-sized  tree.  New  York 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  southward  to  Florida  and 
Arizona. 

44.  Oregon  ash  {Fraxinus  oregana):  Medium-sized  tree. 
Western  Washington  to  California. 

ASPEN.      {See  Poplar.) 

BASSWOOD. 

45.  Basswood  {Tilia  americana)  (lime  tree,  American  linden, 
lin,  bee  tree) :  Wood  light,  soft,  stiff  but  not  strong,  of  fine 
texture,  and  white  to  light  brown  color.  The  wood  shrinks 
considerably  in  drying,  works  and  stands  well;  it  is  used  in 
carpentry,  in  the  manufacture  of  furniture  and  woodenware, 
both  turned  and  carved,  in  cooperage,  for  toys,  also  for  pan- 
eling of  car  and  carriage  bodies.  Medium  to  large-sized  tree, 
common  in  all  Northern  broad-leaved  forests;  found  through- 
out the  Eastern  United  States. 

46.  White  basswood  {Tilia  heterophylla):  A  small-sized  tree 
most  abundant  in  the  Alleghany  region. 

BEECH. 

47.  BE¥.cii  { Fagus  ferruginea):  Wood  heavy,  hard,  stiff,  strong, 
of  rather  coarse  texture,  white  to  light  brown,  not  durable  in 
the  ground,  and  subject  to  the  inroads  of  boring  insects;  it 
shrinks  and  checks  considerably  in  drying,  works  and  stands 
well  and  takes  a  good  polish.  Used  for  furniture,  in  turnery, 
for  handles,  lasts,  etc.  Abroad  it  is  very  extensively  em- 
ployed by  the  carpenter,  millwright,  and  wagon  maker,  in 
turnery  as  well   as  wood   carving.      The   beech   is  a  medium- 


188 

sized  tree,  common,  sometimes  forming  forest;  most  abund- 
ant in  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  basin,  but  found  from  Maine 
to  Wisconsin  and  southward  to  Florida. 

BIRCH. — Wood  heavy,  hard,  strong,  of  fine  texture;  sapwood 
whitish,  heartwood  in  shades  of  brown  with  red  and  yellow;  very 
handsome,  with  satiny  luster,  equaling  cherry.  The  wood 
shrinks  considerably  in  drying,  works  and  stands  well  and  takes 
a  good  polish,  but  is  not  durable,  if  exposed.  Birch  is  used 
for  finishing  lumber  in  building,  in  the  manufacture  of  furniture, 
in  wood  turning,  for  spools,  boxes,  wooden  shoes,  etc.,  for  shoe 
lasts  and  pegs,  for  wagon  hubs,  ox  yokes,  etc.,  also  in  wood 
carving.  The  birches  are  medium-sized  trees,  form  extensive 
forests  northward  and  occur  scattered  in  all  broad-leaved  forests 
of  the  Eastern  United  States. 

48.  Cherry  birch  {Betula  lento)  (black  birch,  sweet  birch, 
mahogany  birch):  Medium-sized  tree;  very  common.  Maine 
to  Michigan  and  to  Tennessee. 

49.  Yellow  birch  {Beti/Ia  lutea)  (gray  birch):  Medium-sized 
tree;  common.  Maine  to  Minnesota  and  southward  to 
Tennessee. 

50.  Red  Birch  {Betula  nigra)  (river  birch):  Small  to  medium- 
sized  tree;  very  common;  lighter  and  less  valuable  than  the 
preceding.       New  England  to  Texas  and  Missouri. 

51.  Canoe  Bwicw  {Betula  papyri/era)  (white  birch,  paper  birch): 
Generally  a  small  tree;  common,  forming  forests;  wood  of 
good  quality  but  lighter.  All  along  the  northern  boundary  of 
United  States  and  northward,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific. 

BLACK  WALNUT.      {See  Walnut.) 

BLUE  BEECH. 

52.  Blue  beech  {Carpinus  caroliniana)  (hornbeam,  water  beech, 
ironwood):  Wood  very  heavy,  hard,  strong,  very  stiff,  of 
rather  fine  texture  and  white  color;  not  durable  in  the  ground; 
shrinks  and  checks  greatly,  but  works  and  stands  well.  Used 
chiefly  in  turnery  for  tool  handles,  etc.  Abroad,  much  used 
by  mill  and  wheel-wrights.  A  small  tree,  largest  in  the  South- 
west, but  found  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  Eastern  United 
States. 


189 
BOIS  D'ARC.      {See  Osage  orange.) 

BUCKEYE— HORSE  CHESTNUT.— Wood  light,  soft,  not 
strong,  .  often  quite  tough,  of  fine  and  uniform  texture  and 
creamy  white  color.  It  shrinks  considerably,  but  works  and 
stands  well.  Used  for  wooden  ware,  artificial  limbs,  paper 
pulp,  and  locally  also  for  building  lumber.  Small-sized  trees, 
scattered. 

53.  Ohio  BUCKEYE  (^seu/us  g/al^ra)  (fetid  buckeye):  Allegha- 
nies,  Pennsylvania  to  Indian  Territory. 

54.  Sweet  buckeye  {.<Ese7////s ^ava):  Alleghanies,  Pennsylvania 
to  Texas. 

BUTTERNUT. 

55.  Butternut  {Juglans  cinerea)  (white  walnut):  Wood  very 
similar  to  black  walnut,  but  light,  quite  soft,  not  strong  and 
of  light  brown  color.  Used  chiefly  for  finishing  lumber, 
cabinetwork,  and  cooperage.  Medium-sized  tree,  largest  and 
most  common  in  the  Ohio  basin;  Maine  to  Minnesota  and 
southward  to  Georgia  and  Alabama. 

CATALPA.    . 

56.  Catalpa  {Caialpa  speciosa)-.  Wood  light,  soft,  not  strong, 
brittle,  durable,  of  coarse  texture  and  brown  color;  used  for 
ties  and  posts,  but  well  suited  for  a  great  variety  of  uses. 
Medium-sized  tree;  lower  basin  of  the  Ohio  River,  locally 
common.  Extensively  planted,  and  therefore  promising  to 
become  of  some  importance. 

CHERRY. 

57.  Cherry  {Primus  serotina):  Wood  heavy,  hard,  strong,  of 
fine  texture;  sapwood  yellowish  white,  heartwood  reddish  to 
brown.  The  wood  shrinks  considerably  in  drying,  works  and 
stands  well,  takes  a  good  polish,  and  is  much  esteemed  for  its 
beauty.  Cherry  is  chiefly  used  as  a  decorative  finishing  lum- 
ber for  buildings,  cars,  and  boats,  also  for  furniture  and  in 
turnery.  It  is  becoming  too  costly  for  many  purposes  for 
which  it  is  naturally  well  suited.  The  lumber-furnishing 
cherry  of  this  country,  the  wild  black  cherry  {prunus serotina), 
is  a   small   to   medium-sized   tree,  scattered  through  many  of 


190 

the  broad-leaved  woods  of  the  western  slope  of  the  Allegha- 
nies,  but  found  from  Michigan  to  Florida  and  west  to  Texas. 
Other  species  of  this  genus  as  well  as  the  hawthorns  ^Cratcegus) 
and  wild  apple  {Pyrus)  are  not  commonly  offered  in  the 
market.  Their  wood  is  of  the  same  character  as  cherry, 
often  even  finer,  but  in  small  dimensions. 

CHESTNUT. 

58.  Chestnut  {Castanea  vulgaris  var.  ainericana)-.  Wood  light, 
moderately  soft,  stiff,  not  strong,  of  coarse  texture;  the  sap- 
wood  light,  the  heartwood  darker  brown.  It  shrinks  and 
checks  considerably  in  drying,  works  easily,  stands  well,  and 
is  very  durable.  Used  in  cabinetwork,  cooperage,  for  rail- 
way ties,  telegraph  poles,  and  locally  in  heavy  construction. 
Medium-sized  tree,  very  common  in  the  Alleghanies,  occurs 
from  Maine  to  Michigan  and  southward  to  Alabama. 

59.  Chinquapin  {Castanea  pumila):  A  small-sized  tree,  with 
wood  slightly  heavier  but  otherwise  similar  to  the  preceding; 
most  common  in  Arkansas,  but  with  nearly  the  same  range  as 
the  chestnut. 

60.  Chinquapin  {Castanopsis  chrysophylla)-.  A  medium-sized 
tree  of  the  western  ranges  of  California  and  Oregon. 

COFFEE  TREE. 

61.  Coffee  TREE  {Gy?nnoc/adi/s  canadensis)  (coffee  nut):  Wood 
heavy,  hard,  strong,  very  stiff,  of  coarse  texture,  durable;  the 
sapwood  yellow,  the  heartwood  reddish  brown;  shrinks  and 
checks  considerably  in  drying;  works  and  stands  well  and 
takes  a  good  polish.  It  is  used  to  a  limited  extent  in  cabinet- 
work. A  medium  to  large  sized  tree;  not  common.  Penn- 
sylvania to  Minnesota  and  Arkansas. 

COTTONWOOD.      {See  Poplar.  ) 

CUCUMBER  TREE.      {See  Tulip.  ) 

ELM. — Wood  heavy,  hard,  strong,  very  tough;  moderately  durable 
in  contact  with  the  soil;  commonly  crossgrained,  difficult  to 
split  and  shape,  warps,  and  checks  considerably  in  drying, 
but  stands  well  if  properly  handled.  The  broad  sapwood 
whitish,   heart  brown,   both   with   shades  of  gray   and    red;   on 


191 

split  surface  rough;  texture  coarse  to  fine;  capable  of  high 
polish,  l^lm  is  used  in  the  construction  of  cars,  wagons,  etc., 
in  boat  and  ship  building,  for  agricultural  implements  and 
machinery;  in  rough  cooperage,  saddlery  and  harness  work, 
but  particularly  in  the  manufacture  of  all  kinds  of  furniture, 
where  the  beautiful  figures,  especially  those  of  the  tangential 
or  bastard  section,  are  just  beginning  to  be  duly  appreciated. 
The  elms  are  medium  to  large  sized  trees,  of  fairly  rapid  growth, 
with  stout  trunk,  form  no  forests  of  pure  growth,  but  are 
found  scattered  in  all  the  broad-leaved  woods  of  our  country, 
sometimes  forming  a  considerable  portion  of  the  arborescent 
growth. 

62.  White  elm  {Ulmiis  americana)  (American  elm,  water  elm): 
Medium  to  large  sized  tree,  common.  Maine  to  Minnesota, 
southward  to  Florida  and  Texas. 

63.  Rock  ELM  (  67;;///i"  rrtr^/;/i7^d! )( cork  elm,  hickory  elm,  white 
elm,  cliff  elm):  Medium  to  large  sized  tree.  Michigan,  Ohio, 
from  Vermont  to  Iowa,  southward  to   Kentucky. 

64.  Red  elm  {Ulmus  fuiva)  (slippery  elm,  moose  elm):  Small- 
sized  tree,  found  chiefly  along  water  courses.  New  York  to 
Minnesota,  and  southward  to  Florida  and  Texas. 

65.  Cedar  elm  {Ulmus  crassifolia)\  Small-sized  tree,  quite 
common.     Arkansas  and  Texas. 

66.  Winged  elm  {Ulmus  alata)  (Wahoo):  Small-sized  tree, 
locally  quite  common.  Arkansas,  Missouri,  and  eastern 
Virginia. 

GUM. — This  general  term  refers  to  two  kinds  of  wood  usually 
distinguished  as  sweet  or  red  gum,  and  sour,  black,  or  tupelo 
gum,  the  former  being  a  relative  of  the  witch-hazel,  the  latter 
belonging  to  the  dogwood  family. 

67.  Tupelo  [Nyssa  sylvatica)  (sour  gum,  black  gum):  Maine 
to  Michigan,  and  southward  to  Florida  and  Texas.  Wood 
heavy,  hard,  strong,  tough,  of  fine  texture,  frequently  cross- 
grained,  of  yellowish  or  grayish  white  color,  hard  to  split  and 
work,  troublesome  in  seasoning,  warps  and  checks  consider- 
ably, and  is  not  durable  if  exposed;  used  for  wagon  hubs, 
wooden  ware,  handles,  wooden  shoes,  etc.      Medium  to  large 


192 

sized  trees,  with  straight,  clear  trunks;  locally  quite  abundant, 
but  never  forming  forests  of  pure  growth. 

68.  Tupelo  gum  {Nyssa  uniflora)  (cotton  gum):  Lower  Missis- 
sippi basin,  northward  to  Illinois  and  eastward  to  Virginia, 
otherwise  like  preceding  species. 

69.  Sweet  gum  {Liquidambar  styj-acifiiia)  (red  gum,  liquidam- 
bar,  bilsted):  Wood  rather  heavy,  rather  soft,  quite  stiff  and 
strong,  tough,  commonly  crossgrained,  of  fine  texture;  the 
broad  sapwood  whitish,  the  heartwood  reddish  brown;  the 
wood  shrinks  and  warps  considerably,  but  does  not  check 
badly,  stands  well  when  fully  seasoned,  and  takes  good  polish. 
Sweet  gum  is  used  in  carpentry,  in  the  manufacture  of  furni- 
ture, for  cut  veneer,  for  wooden  plates,  plaques,  baskets,  etc., 
also  for  wagon  hubs,  hat  blocks,  etc.  A  large-sized  tree,  very 
abundant,  often  the  principal  tree  in  the  swampy  parts  of  the 
bottoms  of  the  Lower  Mississippi  Valley;  occurs  from  New 
York  to  Texas  and  from  Indiana  to  Florida. 

HACKBERRY. 

70.  Hackberry  {Celtis-occidentalis)  (sugar  berry):  The  hand- 
some wood  heavy,  hard,  strong,  quite  tough,  of  moderately 
fine  texture,  and  greenish  or  yellowish  white  color;  shrinks 
moderately,  works  well,  and  takes  a  good  polish.  So  far  but 
little  used  in  the  manufacture  of  furniture.  Medium  to  large 
sized  tree,  locally  quite  common,  largest  in  the  Lower  Missis- 
sippi Valley;  occurs  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  Eastern  United 
States. 

HICKORY. — Wood  very  heavy,  hard,  and  strong,  proverbially 
tough,  of  rather  coarse  texture,  smooth  and  of  straight  grain. 
The  broad  sapwood  white,  the  heart  reddish  nut  brown.  It  dries 
slowly,  shrinks  and  checks  considerably;  is  not  durable  in  the 
ground,  or  if  exposed,  and,  especially  the  sapwood,  is  always 
subject  to  the  inroads  of  boring  insects.  Hickory  excels  as 
carriage  and  wagon  stock,  but  is  also  extensively  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  implements  and  machinery,  for  tool  handles, 
timber  pins,  for  harness  work,  and  cooperage.  The  hickories 
are  tall  trees  with  slender  stems,  never  form  forests,  occasionally 
small  groves,  but   usually  occur  scattered    among  other   broad- 


103 

leaved    trees   in  suitable   localities.      The  following   species   all 
contribute  more  or  less  to  hickory  of  the  markets: 

71.  Sha(;p,ark  HICKORY  {Hicoria  ovafa)  (shellbark  hickory ):  A 
medium  to  large  sized  tree,  quite  common;  the  favorite  among 
hickories;  best  developed  in  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  basins; 
from  Lake  Ontario  to  Texas,  Minnesota  to  Florida. 

72.  MocKERNUT  HICKORY  {Hicovia  alba)  (black  hickory,  bull 
and  black  nut,  big  bud,  and  white-heart  hickory):  A  medium 
to  large  sized  tree,  with  the  same  range  as  the  foregoing; 
common,  especially  in  the  South. 

73.  Pignut  hickory  {Hico7'ia  glabra)  (brown  hickory,  black 
hickory,  switch-bud  hickory):  Medium  to  large  sized  tree, 
abundant;  all  Eastern  United  States. 

74.  Bitter  nut  hickory  {Hicoria  ini7iiina)  (swamp  hickory): 
A  medium-sized  tree,  favoring  wet  localities,  with  the  same 
range  as  the  preceding. 

75.  Pecan  {Hicoria  pecan)  (Illinois  nut):  A  large  tree,  very 
common  in  the  fertile  bottoms  of  the  Western  streams.  In- 
diana to  Nebraska  and  southward  to  Louisiana  and  Texas. 

HOLLY. 

76.  Holly  {Ilex  opaca) :  Wood  of  medium  weight,  hard,  strong, 
tough,  of  fine  texture  and  white  color;  works  and  stands  well, 
used  for  cabinet  work  and  turnery.  A  small  tree,  most 
abundant  in  the  Lower  Mississippi  Valley  and  Gulf  States, 
but  occurring  eastward  to  Massachusetts  and  north  to  Indiana. 

HORSE  CHESTNUT.      (6"^^  Buckeye.) 

IRONWOOD.      {See  Blue  beech.) 

LOCUST. — This  name  applies  to  both  of  the  following: 

77.  Black  locust  {Robinia  pseudacacia)  (black  locust,  yellow 
locust):  Wood  very  heavy,  hard,  strong,  and  tough,  of  coarse 
texture,  very  durable  in  contact  with  the  soil,  shrinks  consid- 
erably and  suffers  in  seasoning;  the  very  narrow  sapwood 
yellowish,  the  heartwood  brown,  with  shades  of  red  and  green. 
Used  for  wagon  hubs,  tree  nails  or  pins,  but  especially  for 
ties,  posts,  etc.  Abroad  it  is  much  used  for  furniture  and 
farm  implements  and  also  in  turnery.     Small  to  medium  sized 


194 

tree,  at  home  in  the  Alleghanies,  extensively  planted,  especi- 
ally in  the  West. 

78.  Honey  locust  {Gleditsc/iia  iriacanthos)  (black  locust,  sweet 
locust,  three-thorned  acacia):  Wood  heavy,  hard,  strong, 
tough,  of  coarse  texture,  susceptible  of  a  good  polish,  the 
narrow  sapwood  yellow,  the  heartwood  brownish  red.  So 
far,  but  little  appreciated  except  for  fencing  and  fuel;  used  to 
some  extent  for  wagon  hubs  and  in  rough  construction.  A 
medium-sized  tree,  found  from  Pennsylvania  to  Nebraska, 
and  southward  to  Florida  and  Texas;  locally  quite  abundant. 

MAGNOLIA.      {See  Tulip.) 

MAPLE. — Wood  heavy,  hard,  strong,  stiff,  and  tough,  of  fine 
texture,  frequently  wavy-grained,  this  giving  rise  to  ''curly"  and 
"blister"  figures;  not  durable  in  the  ground  or  otherwise  ex- 
posed. Maple  is  creamy  white,  with  shades  of  light  brown  in 
the  heart;  shrinks  moderately,  seasons,  works  and  stands  well, 
wears  smoothly,  and  takes  a  fine  polish.  The  wood  is  used  for 
ceiling,  flooring,  paneling,  stairway,  and  other  finishing  lumber 
in  house,  ship,  and  car  construction;  it  is  used  for  the  keels  of 
boats  and  ships,  in  the  manufacture  of  implements  and  ma- 
chinery, but  especially  for  furniture,  where  entire  chamber  sets 
of  maple  rival  those  of  oak.  Maple  is  also  used  for  shoe  lasts 
and  other  form  blocks,  for  shoe  pegs,  for  piano  actions,  school 
apparatus,  for  wood  type  in  show  bill  printing,  tool  handles,  in 
wood  carving,  turnery,  and  scroll  work.  The  maples  are 
medium-sized  trees,  of  fairly  rapid  growth;  sometimes  form 
forests  and  frequently  constitute  a  large  proportion  of  the 
arborescent  growth. 

79.  Sugar  Maple  {Acer  sacchantm)  (hard  maple,  rock  maple): 
Medium  to  large  sized  tree,  very  common,  forms  considerable 
forests.  Maine  to  Minnesota,  abundant,  with  birch,  in  parts 
of  the  pineries;  southward  to  northern  Florida;  most  abundant 
in  the  region  of  the  Great  Lakes. 

80.  Red  maple  {Acer  rubrum)  (swamp  or  water  maple): 
Medium-sized  tree.  Like  the  preceding,  but  scattered  along 
water  courses  and  other  moist  localities. 

81.  Silver    maple     {Acer    saccharinum)     (soft    maple,    silver 


195 

maple):  Medium-sized,  common;  wood  lighter,  softer,  in- 
ferior to  hard  maple,  and  usually  offered  in  small  quantities 
and  held  separate  in  the  market.  Valley  of  the  Ohio,  but 
occurs  from  Maine  to  Dakota  and  southward  to  Florida. 
82.  Broad  LEAFED  MAPLE  {Acer  macrophyllum)'.  Medium-sized, 
forms  considerable  forests,  and  like  the  preceding  has  a 
lighter,  softer,  and  less  valuable  wood.  Pacific  Coast. 
MULBERRY. 

'^T^.   Red  mulberry  {Morus  rubra):    Wood  moderately  heavy, 
hard,  strong,  rather  tough,  of   coarse  texture,    durable;  sap- 
wood    whitish,    heart   yellow   to    orange  brown;   shrinks    and 
checks  considerably  in  drying;  works  and  stands  well.      Used 
in  cooperage  and  locally  in  shipbuilding  and  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  farm  implements.     A  small-sized  tree,  common  in  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys,    but  widely   distributed  in  the 
Eastern  United  States. 
OAK. — Wood   very  variable,    usually  very  heavy  and   hard,  very 
strong   and   tough,  porous,  and   of  coarse  texture;   the  sapwood 
whitish,  the  heart  ''oak"  brown   to  reddish  brown.      It  shrinks 
and  checks  badly,  giving  trouble  in  seasoning,  but  stands  well, 
is  durable,  and  little  subject  to  attacks  of  insects.      Oak  is  used 
for  many  purposes:   in  shipbuilding,  for  heavy  construction,  in 
common  carpentry,  in  furniture,  car,  and  wagon  work,  cooper- 
age, turnery,  and  even  in  wood   carving;  also  in   the   manufac- 
ture of  all  kinds  of  farm   implements,  wooden  mill  machinery, 
for  piles  and  wharves,  railway  ties,  etc.       The  oaks  are  medium 
to  large  sized   trees,  forming   the  predominant   part   of  a  large 
portion  of  our  broad-leaved  forests,  so  that  these  are  generally 
''oak  forests"  though  they  always  contain  a   considerable  pro- 
portion of  other  kinds  of  trees.    Three  well-marked  kinds,  white, 
red  and  live  oak,  are  distinguished  and  kept  separate  in  the  mar- 
ket.     Of   the  two   principal  kinds   white   oak   is  the    stronger, 
tougher,  less  porous  and    more   durable.      Red  oak  is  usually  of 
coarser  texture,  more  porous,  often  brittle,  less  durable,  and  even 
more  troublesome  in  seasoning  than  white  oak.    In  carpentry  and 
furniture  work  red  oak  brings  about  the  same  price  at  present  as 
white  oak.     The  red  oaks  everywhere  accompany  the  white  oaks, 
and,  like  the  latter,  are   usually  represented   by  several  species 


196 

in  any  given  locality.  Live  oak,  once  largely  employed  in  ship- 
building, possesses  all  the  good  qualities  (except  that  of  size)  of 
white  oak,  even  to  a  greater  degree.  It  is  one  of  the  heaviest, 
hardest,  and  most  durable  building  timbers  of  this  country;  in 
structure  it  resembles  the  red  oaks,  but  is  much  less  porous. 

84.  White  OAK  {Quercus  alba):  Medium  to  large  sized  tree; 
common  in  the  Eastern  States,  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys; 
occurs  throughout  Eastern  United  States. 

85.  Bur  oak  {Quercus  macrocarpa)  (mossy-cup  oak,  over-cup 
oak):  Large-sized  tree,  locally  abundant,  common.  Bot- 
toms west  of  Mississippi;   range   farther  west  than  preceding. 

86.  Swamp  white  oak  {^Quercus  bicolor)-.  Large-sized  tree,  com- 
mon. Most  abundant  in  the  Lake  States,  but  with  range  as 
in  white  oak. 

87.  Yellow  oak  {Quercus prinoides)  (chestnut  oak,  chinquapin 
oak):  Medium-sized  tree;  Southern  Alleghanies,  eastward  ta 
Massachusetts. 

88.  Basket  oak  {Quercus  michauxii)  (cow  oak):  Large-sized 
tree;  locally  abundant;  lower  Mississippi  and  eastward  to 
Delaware. 

89.  OvER-cup  OAK  {Quercus  lyrata)  (swamp  white  oak,  swamp 
post  oak):  Medium  to  large  sized  tree;  rather  restricted; 
ranges  as  in  the  preceding. 

90.  Post  OAK  {Quercus  obiusiloba)  (iron  oak):  Medium  to  large 
sized  tree.  Arkansas  to  Texas,  eastward  to  New  England  and 
northward  to  Michigan. 

91.  White  oak  {Quercus  durandii)'.  Medium  to  small  sized 
tree.     Texas,  eastward  to  Alabama. 

92.  White  oak  {Quercus  garryana)-.  Medium  to  large-sized 
tree.     Washington  to  California. 

93.  White  oak  {Quercus  lobata):  Medium  to  large-sized  tree; 
largest  oak  on  the  Pacific  coast;  California. 

94.  Red  oak  {Quercus  rubra)  (black  oak):  Medium  to  large- 
sized  tree;  common  in  all  parts  of  its  range.  Maine  to  Min- 
nesota, and  southward  to  the  Gulf. 

95.  Black  oak  {Quercus  tinctoria)  (yellow  oak):  Medium  to 
large  sized  tree,  very  common  in  the  Southern  States,  but 
occurring  north  as  far  as  Minnesota,  and  Eastward  to  Maine. 


197 

96.  Spanish  oak  {Querciis  falcata)  (red  oak):  Medium  sized 
tree,  common  in  the  South  Atlantic  and  Gulf  region,  but 
found  from  Texas  to  New  York,  and  north  to  Missouri  and 
Kentucky. 

97.  Scarlet  oak  {Quercus  coccinea):  Medium  to  large-sized 
tree;  best  developed  in  the  lower  basin  of  the  Ohio,  but  found 
from  Maine  to  Missouri,  and  from   Minnesota  to  Florida. 

98.  Pin  oak  {Quercus  palustris)  (swamp  Spanish  oak,  water 
oak):  Medium  to  large  sized  tree,  common  along  borders  of 
streams  and  swamps.  Arkansas  to  Wisconsin,  and  eastward 
to  the  Alleghanies. 

99.  Willow  oak  {^Quercus  phellos)  (peach  oak):  Small  to 
medium  sized  tree.  New  York  to  Texas,  and  northward  to 
Kentucky. 

100.  Water  oak  {Quercus  aquaiica)  (duck  oak,  possum  oak, 
punk  oak):  Medium  to  large  sized  tree,  of  extremely  rapid 
growth.  Eastern  Gulf  States,  eastward  to  Delaware,  and 
northward  to  Missouri  and  Kentucky. 

lot.  Live  oak  {^Quercus  virens):  Small  sized  tree,  scattered 
along  the  coast  from  Virginia  to  Texas. 

102.  Live  oak  {Quercus chrysolepis){mzM\  oak,  Valparaiso  oak): 
Medium  sized  tree;  California. 

OSAGE  ORANGE. 

103.  Osage  orange  (^Madura  aurantiaca)  (Boisd'Arc):  Wood 
very  heavy,  exceedingly  hard,  strong,  not  tough,  of  moder- 
ately coarse  texture,  and  very  durable;  sapwood  yellow,  heart 
brown  on  the  end,  yellow  on  longitudinal  faces,  soon  turning 
grayish  brown  if  exposed;  it  shrinks  considerably  in  drying, 
but  once  dry  it  stands  unusually  well.  Formerly  much  used  for 
wheel  stock  in  the  dry  regions  of  Texas;  otherwise  employed 
for  posts,  railway  ties,  etc.  Seems  too  little  appreciated;  it  is 
well  suited  for  turned  ware  and  especially  for  wood  carving. 
A  small  sized.tree,  of  fairly  rapid  growth,  scattered  through  the 
rich  bottoms  of  Arkansas  and  Texas. 

PERSIMMON. 

104.  Persimmon  {Diospyros  virginiafta):  Wood  very  heavy  and 
hard,   strong  and   tough;  resembles  hickory,  but  is   of  finer 


198 

texture;  the  broad  sapwood  cream  color,  the  heart  black;  used 
in  turnery  for  shuttles,  plane  stocks,  shoe  lasts,  etc.  Small  to 
medium  sized  tree,  common  and  best  developed  in  the  Lower 
Ohio  Valley,  but  occurs  from  New  York  to  Texas  and  Mis- 
souri. 

POPLAR  AND  COTTONWOOD  (6*^^  ^/i-^  Tulip  wood).— Wood 
light,  very  soft,  not  strong,  of  fine  texture  and  whitish,  grayish 
to  yellowish  color,  usually  with  a  satiny  luster.  The  wood 
shrinks  moderately  (some  crossgrained  forms  warp  excessively), 
but  checks  little;  is  easily  worked,  but  is  not  durable.  Used  as 
building  and  furniture  lumber,  in  cooperage  for  sugar  and  flour 
barrels,  for  crates  and  boxes  (especially  cracker  boxes),  for 
wooden  ware  and  paper  pulp. 

105.  Cottonwood  {Fopult^s  monilifera):  Large  sized  tree;  forms 
considerable  forests  along  many  of  the  Western  streams,  and 
furnishes  most  of  the  cottonwood  of  the  market.  Mississippi 
Valley  and  west;  New  England  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

106.  Balsam  {Fopulus  balsamt/era)  (balm  of  Gilead):  Medium 
to  large  sized  tree;  common  all  along  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  United  States. 

107.  Black  cottonwood  {Populus  trichocarpa)-.  The  largest 
deciduous  tree  of  Washington;  very  common.  Northern 
Rocky  Mountains  and  Pacific  region. 

108.  Cottonwood  {Populus  fremontii  var.  wislizeniy.  Medium 
to  large  sized  tree,  common.     Texas  to  California. 

109.  Poplar  {Populus  grandidentata):  Medium  sized  tree, 
chiefly  used  for  pulp.  Maine  to  Minnesota  and  southward 
along  the  Alleghanies. 

no.  Aspen  {Populus  tremuloides):  Small  to  medium  sized  tree, 
often  forming  extensive  forests  and  covering  burned  areas. 
Maine  to  Washington  and  northward,  south  in  the  Western 
mountains  to  California  and  New  Mexico. 

SOUR  GUM.      {See  Gum.) 

RED  GUM.      (6*^^  Gum.) 

SASSAFRAS. 

III.  Sassafras  {Sassafras  sassafras):  Wood  light,  soft;  not 
strong,   brittle,   of  coarse  texture,  durable;   sapwood   yellow, 


199 

heart  orange  brown.  Used  in  cooperage,  for  skiffs,  fencing, 
etc.  Medium  sized  tree,  largest  in  the  Lower  Mississippi 
Valley,  from  New  England  to  Texas  and  from  Michigan  to 
Florida. 

SWEET  GUM.      {See  Gum.) 

SYCAMORE. 

112.  Sycamore  {F/atanns  occidenialis)  (button  wood,  button- 
ball  tree,  water  beech):  Wood  moderately  heavy,  quite  hard, 
stiff,  strong,  tough,  usually  crossgrained,  of  coarse  texture, 
and  white  to  light  brown  color;  the  wood  is  hard  to  split  and 
work,  shrinks  moderately,  warps  and  checks  considerably, 
but  stands  well.  It  is  used  extensively  for  drawers,  backs, 
bottoms,  etc.,  in  cabinet-making,  for  tobacco  boxes,  in 
cooperage,  and  also  for  finishing  lumber,  where  it  has  too 
long  been  underrated.  A  large  tree  of  rapid  growth,  com- 
mon and  largest  in  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys,  at  home 
in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  Eastern  United  States.  The  Cali- 
fornia species — 

113.  Plaianus  racemosa  resembles  in  its  wood  the  Eastern 
form. 

TULIP  WOOD. 

114.  Tulip  tree  {Liriodendron  tulipifera)  (yellow  poplar,  white 
wood):  W^ood  quite  variable  in  weight,  usually  light,  soft, 
stiff  but  not  strong,  of  fine  texture,  and  yellowish  color;  the 
wood  shrinks  considerably,  but  seasons  without  much  injury; 
works  and  stands  remarkably  well.  Used  for  siding,  for 
paneling  and  finishing  lumber  in  house,  car,  and  ship  build- 
ing, for  sideboards  and  panels  of  wagons  and  carriages;  also 
in  the  manufacture  of  furniture,  implements  and  machinery, 
for  pump  logs,  and  almost  every  kind  of  common  wooden  ware, 
boxes,  shelving,  drawers,  etc.  An  ideal  wood  for  the  carver 
and  toy  man.  A  large  tree,  does  not  form  forests,  but  is  quite 
common,  especially  in  the  Ohio  Basin;  occurs  from  New 
England  to  Missouri  and  southward  to  Florida. 

115.  Cucumber  tree  {Magnolia  aci/mi?iata)\  A  medium-sized 
tree,  most  common  in  the  Southern  Alleghanies,  but  distrib- 
uted from  New  York  to  Arkansas,  southward  to  Alabama  and 


200 

northward  to  Illinois.    Resembling,  and  probably  confounded 
with,  tulip  wood  in  the  markets. 

TUPELO.      {See  Gum.) 

WALNUT. 

1 1 6.  Black  \VAL-NUT(/ug/ans  nigi'ci) :  Wood  heavy,  hard,  strong, 
of  coarse  texture;  the  narrow  sapwood  whitish,  the  heart- 
wood  chocolate  brown.  The  wood  shrinks  moderately  in 
drying,  works  and  stands  well,  takes  a  good  polish,  is  quite 
handsome,  and  has  been  for  a  long  time  the  favorite  cabinet 
wood  in  this  country.  Walnut,  formerly  used  even  for  fenc- 
ing, has  become  too  costly  for  ordinary  uses,  and  is  to  day 
employed  largely  as  a  veneer,  for  inside  finish  and  cabinet- 
work; also  in  turnery,  for  gunstocks,  etc.  Black  walnut  is  a 
large  tree,  with  stout  trunk,  of  rapid  growth,  and  was  formerly 
quite  abundant  throughout  the  Alleghany  region,  occurring 
from  New  England  to  Texas,  and  from   Michigan  to  Florida. 

WHITE  WALNUT.     {See  Butternut.  ) 

WHITE  WOOD.      {See  Tulip,  and  also  Basswood.) 

YELLOW  POPLAR.      {See  Tulip.) 


201 


INSTRUCTION  ON  TOOLS. 

Arranged  bv  Mr.  Grant  Beebe,  from  Notes  by  the  Author. 


After  the  pupils  have  been  assigned  to  their  benches  it  is 
desirable  that  they  should  clearly  understand  just  what  is  expected 
of  them  in  the  matter  of  conduct.  On  account  of  the  novelty  of 
their  surroundings  in  the  shop,  many  pupils  are  likely  to  be  dis- 
orderly, who  would  not  be  so,  if  they  knew  what  was  expected  of 
them.  The  following  suggestions  have  been  found  of  value  in 
overcoming  this  difficulty.  They  may  either  be  given  orally  by 
the  teacher  or  in  case  a  note  book  is  kept  they  should  be  the  first 
entry  made.     In  that  case  they  should  be  dictated  by  the  instructor. 

1.  Remain  at  the  bench  assigned  to  you  always,  unless  given 
permission  to  leave  it. 

2.  When  you  come  into  the  shop  you  should  go  to  your  bench 
-and  stand  at  the  middle  of  it  facing  the  teacher  while  he  reads 
the  names  of  the  members  of  the  class. 

Answer  to  your  own  name  when  it  is  read. 

3.  After  the  names  are  read  you  should  inspect  your  bench 
and  tools.  See  that  you  have  all  the  tools  and  that  they  are  in 
the  proper  places.  If  any  tool  is  broken  or  missing  you  should 
let  the  teacher  know  at  once.  If  you  do  not  do  so  you  will  be 
held  responsible.  You  should  also  see  that  all  the  tools  that  you 
are  going  to  use  are  sharp.    If  they  are  not  report  to  the  teacher. 

4.  When  you  have  looked  over  your  tools  you  will  receive 
your  work,  but  you  are  not  to  begin  work  until  told  to  do  so. 

5.  Never  do  any  talking  or  communicating  in  the  shop  unless 
you  receive  permission  to  do  so. 

6.  When  you  need  to  use  glue,  shellac,  or  varnish  go  to  the 
table  or  shelf  to  do  so.  Each  can  is  labeled  so  that  you  can  tell 
what  is  in  it.  Be  careful  to  put  the  brushes  into  the  same  can  in 
which  you  found  them. 

7.  In  case  any  tool  does  not  work  well  and  you  can  not  fix  it, 
let  the  teacher  know  at  once. 

Having  given  the  preceding  instructions  let  the  pupils  at  once 


202 

familiarize  themselves  with  the  bench  and  tools.  The  first  object 
that  will  attract  their  attention  is  the  vise.  Explain  its  action  and 
show  how  to  open  and  close  it  quietly.  If  this  is  insisted  upon 
at  first  much  trouble  will  be  avoided.  After  the  vise  take  up 
the  tools  in  order  calling  attention  to  the  place  where  each  is  kept. 
If  possible  get  the  pupils  to  give  the  names  of  the  tools.  If  not 
tell  them  the  names.  Too  much  stress  can  not  be  laid  on  this 
point  as  it  is  impossible  to  give  instructions  unless  the  pupils  have 
the  names  of  the  tools  fixed  in  their  minds. 

Having  let  the  pupils  become  familiar  with  the  tools  and  the 
places  where  they  are  kept  some  slight  instruction  should  be  given 
on  the  material  to  be  used.  It  is  not  desirable  to  give  extended 
instruction  at  this  point  but  the  name  of  the  kind  of  wood  used 
should  be  given  and  the  meaning  of  the  word  grain  clearly  defined 
as  suggested  below. 

WOOD. 

Note. — The  kind  of  wood  used  is  white  pine  (or  whatever 
wood  is  employed. )  It  belongs  to  the  class  known  as  soft  woods. 
The  grain  of  wood  is  due  to  the  direction  in  which  the  fibres  grow 
in  the  tree.      Wood  always  splits  in  the  direction  of  the  grain. 

Directions. — The  teacher  should  illustrate  this  by  splitting  a 
small  block  or  better  provide  each  pupil  with  a  block  and  let  him 
investigate  for  himself. 

THE  RULER. 

FIG.  / 


d:i 


Note. — The  carpenter's  ruler  is  twenty-four  inches  long  and 
each  inch  is  divided  either  into  eighths  or  sixteenths. 

Directions. — The  teacher  should  place  on  the  blackboard  a 
large  sketch  similar  to  Fig.  i,  and  should  divide  the  inches  before 
the  class,  who  may  compare  with  their  rulers.  Make  clear  the 
point  that  the  ruler. measures  spaces  and  to  make  sure  that  this  is 
understood  ask  questions  such  as:    How  mdSi^  lines  mark  one  inch? 


two  inches?  three-eighths?  etc.      Also   have  pupils  read  from  the 
blackboard  drawing. 

TRYSQUARE. 
Note. — The  square  is  used  to  determine  whether  two  surfaces 
make  a  right   angle  (or  an   angle   of  90^)  with   each  other.      The 
names  of  the  parts  of  the  square  are  given  below. 


P 


«5 


J''l'i'L'i'L'i'L'i'L'"l.'"i;" 


Directions. — Define  a  right  angle  and  make  sure  that  the 
pupil  understands  what  an  angle  is.  Make  clear  the  difference 
between  the  geometrical  square  and  use  of  the  word  in  mechanics. 
Draw  on  the  board  a  square  and  any  other  rectangle  and  show 
that  in  the  sense  that  the  word  is  used  in  the  shop  the  rectangle  is 
also  ''square." 

SAWS. 

Note. — The  shape  of  the  teeth  of  a  saw  determines  the  use  to 
which  the  saw  is  put. 

RIP  SAW. 

Note. — The  Rip  Saw  is  used  to  cut  in  the  direction- of  the 
grain.     The  shape  of  the  teeth  of  the  rip  saw  is  given  below. 

FIG.  3 


Directions. — The  teacher  should  have  a  wooden  model  which 


204 

has  teeth  not  less  than  three  inches  on  the  front  side  and  which 
the  pupils  can  compare  with  the  teeth  on  their  rip  saws.  The 
model  should  show  the  set  very  plainly.  The  rip  saw  cuts  as  a 
chisel  does  and  the  teacher  should  illustrate  with  a  chisel  and  saw, 
showing  that  the  shaving  from  the  chisel  is  similar  to  the  particles 
of  saw  dust  from  the  saw. 

CROSS  CUT  SAW. 

Note. — The  Cross  Cut  Saw  is  used   to  cut  across   the  grain. 
The  teeth  are  shaped  like  this  : 

FIG  ^. 


The  cross  cut  saw  is  sometimes  called  the  panel  saw. 

Directions. — The  teacher  should  illustrate  with  wooden 
model  as  before.  If  possible  have  the  pupils  draw  the  teeth  on 
the  blackboard  from  their  own  saws  before  showing  them  the 
model.  This  training  of  the  faculty  of  observation  is  important. 
The  action  of  the  cross  cut  saw  is  that  obtained  by  the  use  of 
a  knife  and  chisel.  The  sharp  edge  of  the  tooth  cuts  the  fibres 
and  the  upper  part  pushes  them  from  the  cut.  Illustrate  with 
knife  and  chisel. 

Both  saws  are  narrower   at   the  point  than  at   the  handle  to 


make  them  cut   more  near  the   handle   than  at   the   point.     The 


205 

narrow  point  also  enables  the  user  to  straighten  a  crooked  cut. 
(Illustrate.  ) 

Note. — If  a  saw  bends  in  an  even  curve  from  handle  to 
point  it  shows  that  the  blade  is  of  uniform  temper  and  evenly- 
ground. 

If  the  saw  is  poor  it  will  bend  unevenly  as  shown  by  the 
dotted  line.  A  good  saw  should  spring  back  into  a  straight  line 
after  being  bent. 

PRINCIPLES  OF  SAW  CONSTRUCTION. 

The  saw  is  either  reciprocating  or  continuous  in  action,  the 
first  being  a  flat  blade  and  practically  straight  edge,  making  a 
plane  cut,  as  in  hand,  mill,  jig  and  sash  saws;  the  latter,  either  a 
circular  or  rotating  disc,  cutting  in  a  plane  at  a  right  angle  to  its 
axis,  a  cylindrical  or  barrel  shape  with  a  convex  edge  cutting  par- 
allel to  its  axis,  or  a  continuous  ribbon  or  band  running  on  two 
pulleys  making  a  plain  or  curved  cut  with  a  straight  edge  parallel 
to  their  axis  of  rotation.  Practically  speaking,  the  teeth  are  a 
series  of  knives  set  on  a  circular  or  straight  line,  each  tooth  cut- 
ting out  its  proportion  of  wood  and  kept  from  cutting  more  by  the 
teeth  on  either  side  of  it.  Each  tooth  should  cut  the  same 
amount  and  carry  out  the  chip  or  dust,  dropping  it  to  the  sides  or 
below  the  material  being  sawed.  Different  kinds  of  wood  require 
teeth  different  in  number,  angle  or  pitch  and  style  of  filing. 

The  most  perfect  saw  is  one  that  cuts  the  fastest  and  smooth- 
est with  the  least  expenditure  of  power;  to  do  this,  it  is  evident 
that  each  tooth  should  be  so  constructed  and  dressed  as  to  do  an 
equal  proportion  of  the  work,  for  if  any  of  the  teeth  are  out  of  line 
or  shape,  they  are  not  only  useless  themselves,  but  a  disadvant- 
age to  the  others.  We  find  many  good  mechanics  who  frankly 
acknowledge  that  they  never  could  file  a  saw  satisfactorily;  the 
probable  reason  is  that  they  never  studied  the  principle  of  the 
action  or  working  of  the  tool.  There  is  no  reason  why  any  man 
of  ordinary  mechanical  ability  should  not  be  able  to  put  and  keep 
his  saw  in  order,  but  like  all  trades,  it  requires  practice  and  study 
of  the  subject. 

A  careful  study  of  the  following  illustrations  and  explanations 
is  suggested. 


206 

A  saw  tooth  has  two  functions — paring  and  scraping.  A 
slitting  or  ripping  saw  for  wood  should  have  its  cutting  edge  at 
about  right  angles  to  the  fibre  of  the  wood,  severing  it  in  one  ^\2iCQ, 
the  throat  of  tooth  wedging  out  the  piece. 

In  a  cross-cut  wood  saw,  the  cutting  edge  also  strikes  the  fibre 
at  right  angles  to  its  length,  but  severs  it  on  each  side  from  the 
main  body  before  dislodging  it. 


RIP  SAWS. 


Fig.  7. 

Fig.  8  is  a  four  point  rip  or  slitting  saw  with  the  rake  all  in 
front,  where  the  cutting  duty  is.  This  saw  should  be  filed  square 
across,  filing  one-half  the  teeth  from  each  side  after  setting,  which 


207 

will  give  a  slight  bevel  to  the  cutting  edge  of  the  tooth,  as  it  should 
be  for  soft  wood;  for  medium  hard  woods  a  finer  toothed  saw  with 


Fig.  8. 

five  points  to  the  inch  should  be  used  and  dressed  in  the  same 
manner;  for  the  very  hardest  and  toughest  cross-grained  woods  a 
saw  still  finer,  the  teeth  filed  slightly  beveling,  as  ripping  cross- 
grained  stuff  partakes  a  little  of  the  nature  of  cross-cutting.  In  all 
cases  where  ripping  is  done,  the  thrust  of  the  saw  should  be  on  an 
angle  of  about  45  -  to  the  material  being  cut,  as  shown  in  Fig.  7, 
this  makes  a  shearing  cut,  an  advantage  that  can  be  quickly  dem- 
onstrated with  an  ordinary  pocket  knife  cutting  any  piece  of  wood. 
For  ripping  thoroughly  dry  lumber,  it  will  be  found  advantageous 
to  use  an  extra  thin  back  saw  which  will  run  without  set. 


CROSS-CUT    HAND    SAWS. 

In  cross-cutting,  the  fibre  of  the  wood  is  severed  twice — on 
each  side  of  the  saw — the  thrust  dislodging  and  carrying  the  dust 
out. 

Fig.  9  is  a  five-point  peg  tooth  cross-cut  saw  with  the  rake  on 
the  side.  For  the  same  reason  that  the  rip  saw  has  the  rake  on 
front  of  tooth,  the  cross-cut  has  it  on   the   side,  as   that  is  where 


Fig. 


the  cutting  duty  is.      The  bevel  or  fleam  to  teeth  in  Fig.  9  is  about 


208 

45°>  while  there  is  no  pitch  at  all;  the  angle  on  each  side  being 
the  same,  forms  the  ^^peg  tooth,^^  which  is  best  adapted  to  cutting 
soft,  wet  and    fibrous   woods,  and  used  principally  as  a  buck  saw. 

In  all  cases,  the  size  and  length  of  teeth  depend  largely  upon 
the  duty  required;  a  long  tooth  has  the  demerit  of  being  weak 
and  liable  to  spring,  but  the  merit  of  giving  a  greater  clearance  to 
the  saw-dust.  The  throat  space  in  front  of  each  tooth  must  be 
large  enough  to  contain  the  dust  of  that  tooth  from  one  stroke; 
the  greater  the  feed,  the  deeper  the  dust  chamber  required,  or, 
more  teeth.  When  the  teeth  are  fine,  the  shape  of  the  throat  is 
of  special  interest. 

The  first  point  to  be  observed  in  the  selection  of  a  saw  is  to 
see  that  it  "hangs"  right.  Grasp  it  by  the  handle  and  hold  it  in 
position  for  working,  to  see  if  the  handle  fits  the  hand  properly. 
These  are  points  of  great  importance  for  comfort  and  utility.  A 
handle  should  be  symmetrical,  and  the  lines  as  perfect  as  any 
drawing.  Many  handles  are  made  of  green  wood;  they  soon 
shrink  and  become  loose,  the  screws  standing  above  the  wood. 
An  unseasoned  handle  is  liable  to  warp  and  throw  the  saw  out  of 
shape.  The  next  thing  in  order  is  to  try  the  blade  by  springing 
it,  seeing  that  it  bends  regularly  and  evenly  from  point  to  butt  in 
proportion  as  the  width  and  gauge  of  the  saw  varies.  If  the  blade 
is  too  heavy  in  comparison  to  the  teeth,  the  saw  will  never  give 
satisfaction,  because  it  will  require  more  labor  to  use  it;  the 
thinner  you  can  get  a  stiff  saw  the  better;  it  makes  less  kerf  and 
takes  less  muscle  to  drive  it.  This  principle  applies  to  the  well- 
ground  saw.  There  is  less  friction  on  a  narrow  true  saw  than  on 
a  wide  one;  you  will  get  a  smaller  portion  of  blade,  but  you  will 
save  much  unnecessary  labor  at  a  very  little  loss  of  the  width. 

See  that  it  is  well  set  and  sharpened  and  has  a  good  crowning 
breast;  place  it  at  a  distance  from  you  and  get  a  proper  light  on 
it,  by  which  you  can  see  if  there  is  any  imperfection  in  grinding 
or  hammering.  We  should  invariably  make  a  cut  before  purchas- 
ing a  saw,  even  if  we  had  to  carry  a  board  to  the  hardware  store. 
Saws  are  set  on  a  stake  or  small  anvil  with  a  hammer;  a  highly 
tempered  saw  takes  three  or  four  blows,  as  it  is  apt  to  break  by 
attempting  to  set  it  with  but  one  blow.  This  is  a  severe  test,  and 
no  tooth  ought  to    break   afterwards  in  setting,  nor   will   it,  if  the 


209 

mechanic  adopts  the  proper  method.  The  saw  that  is  easily  filed 
and  set  is  easily  made  dull.  As  a  rule,  saws"  are  set  more  than  is 
necessary,  and  if  more  attention  was  paid  to  keeping  points  of 
teeth  well  sharpened,  any  well-made  saw  would  run  with  very  little 
set,  and  there  would  be  fewer  broken  ones.  The  principal  trouble 
is  that  too  many  try  to  get  part  of  the  set  out  of  the  body  of  the 
plate,  while  the  whole  of  the  set  should  be  on  the  teeth.  Setting 
below  the  root  of  the  tooth  distorts  and  strains  the  saw-plate, 
which  may  cause  a  full-tempered  cast-steel  blade  to  crack  and 
eventually  break  at  this  spot,  and  is  always  an  injury  to  the  saw, 
even  if  it  does  not  crack  or  break. 

The  teeth  of  a  hand-saw  should  be  filed  so  true  that,  on  hold- 
ing it  up  to  the  eye  and  looking  along  its  edge,  it  will  show  a 
central  groove  down  which  a  fine  needle  will  slide  freely  the  entire 
length;  this  groove  must  be  angular  in  shape  and  equal  on  each 
side,  or  the  saw  is  not  filed  properly  and  will  not  run  true. 


u 


y 


Fig.  lo.  Fic;.  ii.  Fic.  12.  Fic,.  13. 

Fig  10  shows  how  the  groove  should  appear  on  looking  down 
the  edge  of  the  saw;  the  action  should  be  such  that  the  bottom  of 
kerf  will  present  the  appearance  as  shown  in  Fig.  ii,  and  not  like 
Fig.  12;  the  cutting  action  is  as  shown  in  Fig.  13,  the  cutting  be- 
ing done  with  the  outside  of  tooth,  the  fibre  of  the  wood  is  severed 
in  the  two  places  and  the  wood  is  crumbled  out  from  point  to 
point  by  the  thrust  of  saw. 

The  proper  amount  of  bevel  to  give  the  teeth  h  very  im- 
portant, as  is  demonstrated  by  the  above  figures,  for  if  too  much 
bevel  is  given,  the  points  will  score  so  deeply  that  the  fibres  severed 
from  the  main  body  will  not  crumble  out  as  severed,  but  be  re- 
moved by  continued  rasping,  particularly  in  hard  woods,  as  they 
require  less  bevel,  as  well  as  pitch,  than  soft  wood. 

Fig.  14,  shows  a  six-point  cross-cut  saw  filed  with  a  medium 
amount  of  bevel  on  front  or  face  of  tooth,  and  none  on  the  back. 


210 


This  tooth  is  used   in  buck   saws,  on  hard    wood,  and   for  general 
sawing  of  woods   of  varying   degrees   of  tenacity.      This   style  of 


Fig. 


dressing  is  the  best,  but  a  number  of  saws  each  having  teeth  suited 
to  its  particular  work,  will  be  found  more  advantageous  than  try- 
ing to  make  one  saw  serve  for  all  kinds  of  hand  saw  work. 

We  will   now   consider   the   cross-cut   saw  tooth,  in  regard  to 


rake  or  pitch;  this  being  one  of  the  most  important  features,  too 
much  care  cannot  be   taken  to  have   the   correct  amount  of  pitch 


211 

for  the  duty  required.  To  illustrate  this  Fig.  15  represents  a 
board,  across  which  we  wish  to  make  a  deep  mark  or  score  with 
the  point  of  a  knife;  suppose  we  hold  the  knife  nearly  perpen- 
dicular as  at  B,  it  is  evident  it  will  push  harder  and  will  not  cut 
as  smoothly  as  if  it  was  inclined  forward  as  at  A\  it  follows  then 
that  the  cutting  edge  of  a  cross-cut  saw  should  incline  forward 
as  at  C,  rather  than  stand  perpendicular  as  at  D. 


Fig.  16. 

Too  much  hook  or  pitch,  and  too  heavy  a  set  are  very 
<:ommon  faults,  not  only  detrimental  to  good  work  but  ruinous 
to  the  saw;  the  first,  by  having  a  large  amount  of  pitch,  the  saw 
takes  hold  so  keenly  that  frequently  it  ^ 'hangs  i/p*^  suddenly  in 
the  thrust — the  result,  a  kinked  or  broken  blade;  the  second,  by 
having  too  much  set,  the  strain  caused  by  the  additional  and 
unnecessary  amount  of  set  is  out  of  proportion  to  the  strength 
■of  the  blade,  and  is  broken  in  the  same  manner.  The  most 
general  amount  of  pitch  used  is  60°,  though  this  may  be  varied 
a  little  more  or  less  to  advantage,  as  occasion  may  demand. 

The  next  point  to  be  considered  is  the  bevel,  or  fleam  of 
the  point.  In  Figs.  16,  17  and  18,  the  filer,  as  in  all  cases,  files 
irom  the  heel  to  the  point,  which  is  the  only  correct  way.  The 
file  is  supposed  to  be  horizontal  to  the  perpendicular  of  the  side 
of  saw,  and  on  an  angle  of  about  45°  longitudinally  with  the 
length,   measuring  from  file  line  toward  heel. 


212 


Fig.  i6  is  a   five-and-a-half-point   cross-cut   saw  showing  the 
same  amount  of  fleam  front  and  back;   this  saw  is  best  suited  for 


Fig.  17. 


213 

work  in  soft  wood,  and  where  rapid,  rather  than  fine  work  is 
required.  A  shows  the  position  of  the  file,  B  an  exaggerated 
view  of  shape  of  point,  and  Cthe  shape  of  point. 

Fig.  17  is  a  seven-point  saw  for  medium  hard  woods,  illus- 
trated in  same  manner  as  Fig.  10.  This  tooth  has  less  fleam  on 
the  back,  which  gives  a  shorter  bevel  to  point,  as  at  C. 

Fig.  18  is  a  still  finer  saw,  having  ten  points  to  the  inch. 
This  saw  has  no  fleam  on  back,  the  result  being  very  noticeable  at 
C  and  B.     This  style  of  point  is  for  hard  wood. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  bevel  on  the  front  of  teeth  in  Figs.  16, 
17  and  18  is  the  same,  but  the  bevel  of  the  point  looking  the  length 
of  saw  is  quite  different,  consequent  upon  the  difference  in  the 
angles  of  the  backs. 


^JvM<A.M^^-AK  A. 


Fig    iq. 

Fig.  19  is  a  representation  of  some  of  the  saws  we  have  seen; 
there  are  entirely  too  many  such  now  in  use. 

As  we  said  in  the  preceding  pages,  and  as  will  be  seen  by 
Figs.  16,  17  and  18,  the  filing  should  be  done  from  the  heel  of 
saw  toward  the  point.  Many  practical  saw  filers  contend  this  is 
wrong,  that  the  filing  should  be  done  from  point  of  saw  toward 
handle,  but  the  only  support  they  have  for  their  theory  is  that  they 
do  away  with  the  feather  edge  that  the  filing  from  the  heel  of  saw 
puts  on  the  cutting  face  of  tooth.  The  feather  edge  is  no  objec- 
tion, as  the  main  part  of  it  is  removed  when  the  teeth  are  side- 
dressed  after  filing.  Against  the  correctness  of  filing  from  point 
to  handle  may  be' cited  the  following  objections: 

Where  a  different  angle  of  back  is  required  (it  being  remem- 
bered that  angle  of  face  should  be  the  same  in  nearly  all  cross- 
cut hand  saws,  and  that  angle  of  back  governs  angle  of  point,)  it 


214 

will  be  found  very  difficult  to  obtain  it  without  changing  angle  of 
face  of  tooth,  and  as  the  cutting  duty  is  on  the  long  side  of  face, 
any  change  is,  of  course,  of  great  influence. 

Again,  to  file  from  point  of  saw,  it  is  necessary  to  file  with 
the  teeth  bent  toward  the  operator;  this  will  cause  the  saw  to 
vibrate  or  chatter,  which  not  only  renders  good,  clean,  even  filing 
impossible,  but  breaks  the  teeth  of  the  file. 

In  the  preceding  illustrations,  we  have  only  given  the  coarser 
saws  that  are  in  most  general  use,  but  the  same  principle  of  filing 
should  be  applied  to  the  finer  toothed  saws  regarding  angles  and 
pitch  suitable  for  woods  of  different  degrees  of  hardness,  the  only 
actual  difference  being  that  one  saw  has  finer  points,  and  they 
being  finer,  require  a  little  more  care  and  delicate  touch  in  setting 
and  filing. 


M^<MM^^MMM^^^M 


Fig.  20. 


Fig.  21 


Fig.  20  is  a  section  of  an  eleven-point  saw  suitable  for  the 
finer  kinds  of  work  on  dry,  soft  woods,  such  as  cutting  mitres 
dove-tailing,  pattern  work,  etc. 

Fig.  21  shows  a  section  of  saw  with  same  number  of  points  as 
Fig.  20,  but  filed  same  as  Fig.  18.  This  saw  is  for  finer  work, 
same  as  Fig.  20,  only  on  the  medium  hard  woods. 


NA'.\- A' \w  \\\\\' \\\\\\\v\r\\V 


Fig. 


Fig.  23. 


215 

Fig.  2  2  is  a  still  finer  saw  for  fine  work  on  the  very  hardest 
woods  having  the  same  dress  as  Fig.  20. 

Fig.  23  is  the  finest  toothed  saw  of  its  kind  that  is  made  for 
wood.  All  the  above  named  saws  in  Figs.  20,  21,  22  and  23  are 
made  especially  hard  and  will  not  admit  of  setting,  but  being  made 
thinner  at  the  back,  when  properly  filed,  will  cut  clean  and  sweet. 
Teeth  such  as  shown  in  Fig.  23  are  used  principally  on  back  saws 
and  smooth  cutting  hand-saws. 


^^fxjNiiWKiyy^ 


Fig.  24. 

Fig.  24  is  a  section  of  a  pruning  saw  which  differs  from  a 
cross-cut  hand-saw  in  being  thicker,  having  a  little  more  pitch  to 
the  teeth  and  being  ground  thinner  on  the  back  in  proportion  to 
its  width.  These,  of  course  are  made  for  cross-cutting  only,  as 
there  is  not  a  great  variety  in  the  work,  nor  as  much  difference  in 
the  woods  to  be  sawed  as  to  degrees  of  hardness,  being  used  only 
as  a  pruning  saw  on  fruit  and  shade  trees,  which  are  always  prac- 
tically green  and  comparatively  soft. 

COMPASS  SAWS. 

These  saws  are  for  miscellaneous  sawing,  having  in  turn,  cross- 
cut, rip  and  mitre.  The  best  form  of  tooth  for  this  purpose  is  the 
same  as  Fig.  18,  excepting  that  it  has  a  trifle  less  bevel.  As  the 
nature  of  the  work  partakes  about  as  much  of  cross-cutting  as  of 
ripping,  and  as  a  cross-cut  saw  will  rip  better  than  a  rip  will  cross- 
cut, it  is  apparent  the  shape  of  tooth  should  be  between  the 
two.  These  saws  are  all  ground  thinner  at  back  but  set  same  as 
any  hand-saw. 

Scroll  and  web  saws  are  ground,  filed  and  set  in  the  same 
manner,  and  should  have  pitch  according  to  the  work  to  be  done. 
If  more  ripping  than  cross-cutting  is  done,  as  in  large  felloes,  more 
pitch  is  given  than  in  compass  saws   and   vice  versa,  though  these 


21G 

saws  are  almost  universally  run  with  a  rip-saw  tooth  and  have  very 
little  variation  in  the  pitch. 

Note. — The  teeth  of  every  saw  are  bent  from  side  to  side  so 
that  the  cut  will  be  wider  than  the  thickness  of  the  blade  and  the 
blade  will  pass  easily  through  the  cut.  This  bending  is  called 
the  ''Set". 

BACK  SAW. 

Note. — The  Back  Saw  is  so  called  on  account  of  the  steel 
back  put  on  it  to  stiffen  the  blade.  It'is  sometimes  called  the 
tenon  saw  and  is  used  for  short  fine  cuts. 

SETTING  SAWS. 

This  is  an  important  part  of  the  work  of  keeping  a  saw  in 
order  and  should  always  be  done  after  the  teeth  2.xq  jointed  2.x\A 
before  filing.  In  all  cases  the  set  should  be  perfectly  uniform,  as 
the  good  working  of  the  saw  depends  as  much  on  this  as  on  the 
filing.  Whether  the  saw  is  fine  or  coarse,  the  depth  of  set  should 
not  go,  at  the  most,  lower  than  half  the  length  of  the  tooth,  as  it 
is  certain  to  spring  the  body  of  saw  if  not  break  the  tooth  out.  Soft, 
wet  woods  require  more  set  as  well  as  coarser  teeth  than  dry,  hard 
woods.  For  fine  work  on  dry  woods,  either  hard  or  soft,  it  is  best 
.to  have  a  saw  that  is  ground  so  thin  on  the  back  that  it  requires  no 
set;  such  saws  are  made  hard  and  will  not  stand  setting,  and  an 
attempt  to  do  so  would  surely  break  the  teeth. 


PLANES. 

Note. — The  plane  is  generally  used  to  make  a  flat,  or  plane 
surface.  The  names  of  the  principal  parts  of  the  plane  are  given 
below. 

The  Clamp  is  to  hold  the  blade  and  c^p-iron  in  place. 

The  Cap-iron  is  to  break  off  the  shavings. 

The  Thumb  Screw  is  to  push  the  blade  out  or  in. 

The  Lever  is  to  bring  the  edge  of  the  blade  parallel  with  the 
face  of  the  sole. 

The  Blade  does  the  cutting  and  must  be  kept  sharp. 

Directions. — Have  the  pupils  take  their  planes,  (preferably 
the  jack  plane  on  account  of  its  large  size)  and  remove  the  clamp, 
blade  and   cap-iron.     Give  them   the  names   of  the  stock  and  its 


217 
parts  as   shown  in  the  sketch.      Let  them  see  the  operation  of  the 
lever   and    thumb   screw.      Call  attention  to  the  different  materials 


Moutk 


^oU 


Fig.  25. 


Ill  o 


fc" 


^/ac/« 


Fig.  26. 


used  in  the  stock  and  the  reason  for  selecting  them.  It  will  not 
be  possible  in  the  majority  of  classes  to  have  the  sketch  made 
from  the  plane,  but  Fig.  25  should  be  placed  on  the  blackboard  and 
the  names  put  where  they  belong,  a  sketch  should  also  be  made 
showing  the  manner  in  which  the  cap-iron  turns  the  shavings  and 
breaks  them  off.      In  regard   to  the   piece  called  the  clamp  there 


218 

seems  to  be  a  difference  of  usage.  I  have  adopted  the  word  clamp 
because  it  prevents  confusion  and  more  nearly  describes  the 
action  of  the  piece  than  any  other  single  word.  The  cap-iron  is 
universally  called  by  this  name  but  the  blade  is  variously  called 
the  cutter,  bit,  plane  iron,  etc.  I  have  adopted  the  word  blade 
because  it  seems  to  convey  the  idea  of  the  use  of  this  piece  more 
clearly  than  any  other  word.  I  object  to  the  use  of  the  words 
plane  iron  as  being  inaccurate  and  likely  to  confuse  the  pupil. 
Explain  the  difference  between  the  wrought  iron  of  which  the  cap 
is  made  and  the  steel  of  which  the  blade  is  made. 

KINDS  OF  PLANES. 

Note. — The  most  common  planes  are  the  Jack  Plane  and  the 
Smoothing  Plane.  These  are  used  to  plane  in  the  direction  of  the 
grain.  There  is  a  plane  used  for  planing  across  the  end  of  the 
grain.  This  plane  is  called  the  Block  Plane,  but  the  smoothing 
plane  may  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

Directions. — The  teacher  should  illustrate  the  different  cuts 
with  the  plane  and  .particularly  the  effect  of  planing  against  the 
grain. 

Note. — The  Jack  Plane  is  made  for  rough  work  and  so  the 
blade  is  ground  to  take  a  thick  shaving.  The  edge  of  a  jack  plane 
blade  should  round  slightly  like  Fig.  27. 


Fig.  27. 

Note. — The    Smoothing  Plane  is  used    to    make  a  smooth 


215> 


surface.    The  blade  is  therefore  ground  straight  across  like  Fig.  28. 


Fig.  28. 

SHARPENING  PLANES. 

Note. — If  the  blade  of  a  plane  has  its  edge  injured  like  Fig.  29  it 


Fig.  29. 

must  be  ground  on  the  grindstone.  The  little  notches  in  the 
blade  are  called  *'nicks"  and  the  blade  must  be  ground  until  they 
disappear.  In  placing  the  blade  on  the  grindstone  it  must  be  held 
on  the  stone  at  an  angle  of  about  30^  as  in  Fig.  30. 


Fig.  30. 


220 

After  grinding  on  the  grindstone  the  edge  of  the  blade  is  too 
rough  to  use  and  it  must  be  rubbed  on  the  oil-stone.  First 
rub  the  newly  ground  or  slanting  face.  To  do  this  the  blade  must 
be  held  slanting  as  shown  in  Fig.  31. 


Fig.  31. 

When  the  slanting  side  has  been  rubbed  there  will  be  little 
particles  of  steel  forming  a  burr  (called  a  wire  edge)  on  the  flat 
side.  This  burr  must  now  be  rubbed  away  and  to  do  this  the 
blade  must  be  held  flat  as  shown  in  Fig.  32. 


kmmmmmim-m- 


Fig.  32. 


After  the  blade  has  been  made  as  sharp  as  possible  on  the 
oil-stone  it  must  -be  stropped  on  the  block  covered  with  leather 
provided  for  that  purpose.      (See  page  247.) 


221 

BORING    TOOLS. 

Note. — The  tools   used  for   making  holes  are  the  brace  and 
bit.     The  brace  or  bit-stock  is  shown  below,  Fig.  ^^. 


Fig.  33. 


There  are  a  large  number  of  different  kinds  of  bits  used  for 
various  purposes,  the  most  common  of  which  are  given  below. 


AWE. 


Counterain^. 


Aa^e)"  Bit. 


^g^ng/ttttm^m 


^creu/  JJfuxer  Bit. 


Gitnict  Bit- 


Fig.  34. 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  SHARPENING  AN  AUGER  BIT. 


A.  hereto  Point 

B.  Outside  of  Lifi 
C.Sfiuiz 

U  Li/i 

F.  Insidt  oj  Lit 


G.Tiu'ist 


A.  3c;-ea)  Point... 

B.  Outi'tdc    of  Lip 

c.  Bfiu.^' 

D.  L'lfi 

L.  3id&  Li/3 

F.  /jiside  of  Li/i 

G.  Fcblst 


Fiq.   /. 


Fiq.E. 


1.  For  sharpening  an  Auger  Bit,  a  four  inch,  half  round,  dead- 
smooth  file  should  be  used. 

2.  To  sharpen  the  lip,  hold  the  Bit  firmly  in  the  left  hand  with 
the  screw  point  down  on  edge  of  bench.  Slant  the  Bit  slightly  to 
the  left.  File  from  the  inside  of  the  Lip,  back,  being  careful  to 
preserve  the  original  bevel.  File  lightly  until  a  slight  burr,  or 
feather  edge,  is  thrown  upon  the  outside  of  the  Lip.  Remove  this 
burr  by  a  slight  brush  of  the  file,  and  a  keen  cutting  edge  will  be 
produced.  Except  for  removing  burr  never  use  a  file  on  the  out- 
side of  the  Lip. 

If  the  Bit  has  a  side  Lip,  (see  Fig.  2  E)'this  is  next  sharpened 
by  filing  from  the  inside,  care  being  taken  to  preserve  original 
bevel. 

3.  To  sharpen  the  spur,  hold  the  Bit  in  the  left  hand  with  the 
Twist  resting  on  edge  of  bench.  Turn  the  Bit  around  until  the 
Spur  you  wish  to  sharpen  comes  uppermost.  File  side  of  Spur, 
next  to  Screw,  keeping  the  original  bevel.  File  lightly,  until  a  burr 
is  thrown  upon  the  outside  of  the  Spur.  Remove  this  burr  by  a 
careful  brush  of  the  file;  a  fine  cutting  edge  will  be  the  result. 
Never  use  a  file  on  the  outside  of  the  Spur  except  for  the  above 
purpose. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  sharpen  the  opposite  Lips  and 
Spurs  alike. 


223 
THE  HAMMER  AND  MALLET. 

Pupils  are  apt  to  use  these  tools  interchangeably  and  they 
should  be  made  to  understand  the  use  of  each  at  once.  The  ham- 
mer should  be  carefully  examined  and  the  following  points  brought 
out.  Shape  and  use  of  the  claw.  Reason  for  the  rounded  face. 
Reason  for  the  shape  of  the  handle.  Great  stress  should  be  laid 
on  the  proper  handling  of  the  hammer  as  pupils  nearly  always  hold 
it  too  near  the  head. 

The  foregoing  paragraphs  cover  the  points  that  it  is  desirable 
to  emphasize,  but  the  teacher  should  be  familiar  with  the  more 
extended  treatment  given  in  the  books  of  reference.  Special  tools 
as  the  rabbet  plane,  etc.,  should  be  explained  as  used.  It  has 
been  found  that  a  very  good  method  of  impressing  the  points  on 
the  pupils  is  to  give  the  instruction  as  outlined  at  first  orally  and 
at  the  next  lesson  dictate  the  portions  marked  ''Note."  This  will 
teach  the  pupils  the  spelling  of  the  names  of  the  tools  and  the  other 
words  that  are  unusual.  The  sketches  given  should  be  made  as  far  as 
possible  from  the  object,  but  where  the  sketch  is  too  difficult  as  in 
the  case  of  the  section  of  the  plane  the  pupil  should  copy  the 
teacher's  sketch,  which  should  be  put  on  the  blackboard.  All  the 
sketches  given  should  be  put  on  the  blackboard  by  the  teacher, 
and  if  note  books  are  not  kept  the  sketches  should  be  left  on  the 
board  as  long  as  possible  in  order  to  familiarize  the  pupils  with 
the  spelling  and  form  of  the  terms. 


224 


THE  FILE  AND  FILING. 


W.  H.  VAN  DERVOORT. 


A  piece  of  high-grade  crucible  steel,  forged  to  shape,  ground, 
cut  and  carefully  tempered,  forms  that  tool  so  indispensable  to  the 
mechanic — the  file. 

The  file  maker  is  no  longer  compelled  to  forge  his  blanks  from 
stock  of  unsuitable  proportion,  but  receives  from  the  steel  manu- 
facturers stock  of  the  required  cross-section  to  make  all  standard 
shapes.  This  reduces  the  forging  to  a  minimum,  it  being  only 
necessary  to  cut  the  stock  to  the  required  lengths,  to  draw  down 
the  point  and  form  the  tang,  the  latter  operation  being  very  rapidly 
performed  under  power  hammers. 

The  National  Association  of  File  Manufacturers  prescribe  to 
the  steel  makers  the  forms  of  cross-sections  they  require.  Conse- 
quently, all  makers  of  file  steel  can  furnish  any  sections  correct  to 

.......    ^ 


Fig-  / 


gauge.  In  Fig.  i  are  shown  the  correct  cross-sections  of  steel 
for  flat  files,  even  inch  lengths,  from  4  to  16  inches.  In  Fig.  2 
are  shown  the  cross-sections  of  file  steel  for  all  the  shapes  in  gen- 
eral use.  Each  section  is  for  an  8"  file,  full  scale.  The  names  of 
the  files  made  from  steel  of  these  sections  are,  referring  to  the 
numbers  of  the  figure:  i,  ''Hand";  2,  "Flat";  3,  "Mill";  4, 
"Pillar";  5,  "Warding";  6,  "Square";  7,  "Round";  8,  "Half- 
round";  9,  "Three-square";  10,  "Knife";  11,  "Pit-saw";  12, 
"Crossing";  13,  "Tumbler";  14,  "Cross-cut";  15,  "Feather- 
edge";  16,  "Cant-saw";  17,  "Cant-file";  18,  "Cabinet";  19, 
"Shoe-rasp";  20,  "Rasp." 


It  will  be  noticed  that  many  of  these  files  are  named  from  the 
form  of  their  cross-section,  and  that  those  so  named  are  the  ones 
most  used  for  general  work;  while  the  others  receive  their  names 
from  the  special  character  of  the  work  they  are  expected  to  be 
used  upon.  It  will  also  be  noted  that  the  stock  for  files  of  rec-^ 
tangular  cross  section  may  be  classified  as  to  thickness  as  follows: 
''Mill,"  ''Square,"  "Pillar,"  "Hand,"  "Flat,"  "Rasp"  and 
"Warding."  As  to  width,  "Hand"  is  the  widest;  "Flat, ""Rasp," 
"Mill"  and  "Warding"  are  the  same  width;  "Pillar"  materially 
narrower,  and  "Square"  the  narrowest. 


■ 


The  "Half-round"  is  not  a  full  semi-circle,  the  arc  being  about 
one-third  of  the  full  circle.  On  the  other  hand,  the  "Pit-saw"  is 
a  full  half  circle  in  section. 

The  "Three-square,"  "Cant-saw"  and  "Cant-file"  differ  in 
•section  in  their   angles,    the  former   having  equal  angles,  60^  and 


226 

equal  sides,  the  next  35   ,  35    and  iio    angles,  and  the  latter  30^, 
30^  and  120^  angles. 

The  length  of  a  file  is  measured  from  point  to  heel,  and  does 
not  include  the  tang.  The  tang  is  usually  made  spike  shaped  to 
receive  a  plain  ferrule  handle.  Some  makers  modify  the  form  of 
tang  to  fit  patented  handles. 


As  forged,  the  blank  for  a  *'Hand"  file.  Fig.  3,  is  parallel  'in 
'thickness  from  heel  to  middle  and  tapered  from  middle  to  point, 
making  the  point  about  one-half  the  thickness  of  the  stock. 
The  edges  of  the  blank  are  usually  left  parallel.  They  are,  how- 
ever, sometimes  drawn  in  slightly  at  the  point. 


Fig.  4 

The  **Flat"  file  blank,  Fig.  4,  is  parallel  in  both  of  its  longitu- 
dinal sections  from  heel  to  middle  and  tapered  in  both  sections 
from  middle  to  point,  the  thickness  of  point  being  about  two- 
thirds  and  width  about  one-half  that  of  the  stock. 

For  the  "Mill"  file  the  blank  is  parallel  in  thickness  from 
heel  to  point,  and  usually  tapered  to  about  three-fourths  the  width 
of  the  stock.  The  ''Mill"  file  is  often  made  blunt-that  is,  of 
equal  width  and  thickness  throughout  its  length. 

The  blank  for  the  ''Warding"  file  is  tapered  in  width  from 
heel  to  point  and  is  of  uniform  thickness.  Aside  from  width,  the 
''Pillar"  file  is  similar   to   the  "Hand"  file.     The  "Pillar"  file  is. 


227 

also  made  in  ''narrow"  and   extra    narrow  patterns,  the  extra  nar- 
row approximating  a  square  in  section. 

The  ''Three-square,"  "Square"  and  "Round"  are  also  made 
in  slim  and  blunt  forms.  The  "Slim"  is  a  file  of  regular  length, 
but  smallef  cross-section,  and  the  "Blunt"  of  equal  cross-section 
from  heel  to  point,  being  either  "slim"  or  regular. 

After  forging,  the  blanks  are  thoroughly  annealed  in  anneal- 
ing furnaces,  the  operation  taking  from  twenty-four  to  thirty-six 
hours.  When  the  blank  comes  from  the  furnace,  it  is  twisted  and 
scaly,  and  must  be  subjected  to  a  "straightening"  process,  after 
which  the  scale  is  removed  by  "grinding"  on  very  heavy  grind- 
stones. The  blanks  are  next  draw-filed  to  make  them  perfectly 
smooth  and  even,  after  which  they  are  ready  for  the  cutting. 

Files  are  classified  under  three  heads — '.'Single  cut,"  "Double- 
cut"  and  "Rasp."  The  "Single-cut"  file — or  "Float,"  as  its  coarser 
cuts  are  sometimes  called — has  surfaces  covered  with  teeth  made 
by  single  rows  of  parallel  chisel  cuts  extending  across  the  faces 
at  an  angle  of  from  65°  to  85°  with  the  length  of  the  file.  The 
size  of  this  angle  depends  on  the  form  of  the  file  and  the  nature 
of  the  work  it  is  to  perform. 

The  "Double-cut"  file  has  two  rows  of  chisel  cuts  crossing 
each  other.  The  first  row  is,  for  general  work,  at  an  angle  with 
the  length  of  the  file  of  from  40^  to  45^,  and  the  second  row  from 
70^  to  80°.  In  the  "Double-cut"  finishing  files  the  angle  of  the 
first  cut  is  about  30°,  and  the  second  from  80^  to  87°  with  the 
axis  of  the  file.  The  "Double-cut"  gives  a  broken  tooth,  the  sur- 
face of  the  file  being  made  up  of  a  large  number  of  small,  oval- 
pointed  teeth  inclined  toward  the  point,  and  resembling  in  shape 
the  cutting  end  of  a  diamond  pointed  cold  chisel. 

In  the  rasp  the  teeth  are  entirely  disconnected  from  each 
other.  They  are  round  on  top,  and  are  formed  by  raising,  with  a 
punch,  small  portions  of  stock  from  the  surface  of  the  blank. 
The  machinist  seldom  has  use  for  a  rasp,  as  they  are  intended  for 
filing  the  softer  materials,  as  wood  and  leather. 

The  regular  grades  of  cut  upon  which  the  coarseness  of  a  file 
depends  are  "Rough,"  "Coarse,"  "Bastard,"  "Second-cut," 
"Smooth"  and  "Dead-smooth."  The  "Rough"  file  is  usually 
single  cut  and  the  "Dead-smooth"  double  cut.     The  other  grades 


228 

are  made  in  both  double  and  single  cut.  These  grades  of 
coarseness  are,  however,  only  comparable  when  files  of  the  same 
length  are  considered,  as  the  longer  the  file  in   any  cut,  the   fewer 


the  teeth  per  inch  of  length. 


Fig.  5. 

This  is  shown  in  Fig.  5,   where  a  4' 


and  12"  ^'Bastard"  file  are  placed  side  by  side  for  comparison. 

The  relative  degrees  of  coarseness   for  the   different  cuts  are 


F/G.h.  ,  SINGLE  CUT. 


Bfi^TAHD.  SKCOND   CUT. 

FIG.  7.    DOUBLE  CUT. 


SMOOTH. 


shown,  for   the  ''Single-cut"  in  Fig.  6,  and   the   ''Double-cut"  in 
Fig.  7,  a  portion  of  an  8"  file  being  taken  in  each  case. 

The  value  of  a  file  depends  entirely  upon  three  things — qual- 
ity of  stock  from  which  it  is  made,  the  form  of  its  teeth  and  the 
temper.  The  stock  should  be  of  the  very  best,  as  tool  steel  is 
seldom  put  to  any  use  where  its  lasting  qualities  are  more  severely 
taxed. 


229 

As  to  the  forming  of  the  teeth:  It  is  only  within  the  past  few- 
years  that  machine-cut  files  have  come  prominently  upon  the  mar- 
ket, it  being  generally  believed  that  a  file  to  be  first-class  must  be 
hand  cut.  The  difference  between  these  cuts  is  so  slight  that 
only  an  expert,  with  the  files,  could  tell,  with  any  degree  of  cer- 
tainty, which  was  hand  and  which  machine  cut. 

Up  to  the  time  of  the  perfecting  of  the  increment  cut  file,  the 
great  trouble  with  machine-cut  files  was  in  the  perfect  uniformity 
of  the  teeth.  In  a  hand-cut  file  the  width  and  spacing  of  the 
teeth  depend  entirely  upon  the  skill  of  the  workman;  and  no 
matter  how  carefully  he  does  the  cutting,  irregularities  of  a 
thousandth  of  an  inch,  more  or  less,  will  occur  in  the  spacing 
and  in  the  angle  at  which  he  holds  the  broad  chisel  that  forms 
the  teeth.  These  slight  variations  will  cause  the  teeth  to  be  of 
uneven  height  and  irregular  outline.  These  irregularities  are  now 
very  faithfully  reproduced  in  the  increment,  machine-cut  file. 

It  is  difficult  to  make  a  file  having  teeth  of  uniform  height  and 
outline,  as  in  the  case  of  the  ordinary  machine-cut  file,  take  hold 
of  the  work.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  so  many  teeth  present 
themselves  to  the  work  surface  that  the  workman  must  exert  great 
pressure  on  the  file  to  make  them  bite.  With  the  file  having 
teeth  of  irregular  height,  fewer  will  come  in  contact  with  the 
work,  and  the  pressure  required  to  make  them  take  hold  will  be 
correspondingly  light.  As  these  long  teeth  wear  down,  the  shorter 
ones  will  begin  to  do  work;  but  the  file  will,  of  course,  not  cut  so 
freely  as  when  new.  Again,  in  using  the  file  with  teeth  of  uniform 
height,  it  will,  when  pushed  to  the  work,  produce,  at  the  start, 
grooves  which  will  grow  deeper  as  the  file  is  moved  forward,  and, 
due  to  the  broad  cut,  will  be  quite  certain  to  vibrate  and  ''chat- 
ter." On  the  other  hand,  the  uneven  teeth  of  the  hand  and  incre- 
ment cut  files  will  so  adapt  themselves  to  the  surface  of  the  work 
that  only  a  few  teeth  at  any  particular  point  in  the  length  of  the 
file  will  cut.  The  metal  left  between  these  teeth  will  be  removed 
by  the  teeth  following,  perhaps  a  dozen  or  more  rows  of  teeth  being 
required  to  finish  the  cut  started  by  one.  This  is  shown,  for  a 
"Single-cut"  file,  in  Fig.  9,  where  the  several  irregular  lines  rep- 
resent as  many  tooth  outlines  drawn  on  an  exaggerated  scale.  . 
These  teeth  come  successively  to  the  work,  and   if  all  their  high 


230 

points  were  brought  together   they  would  form    a   straight   line,  as 
shown,  which  would  be  the  outline  of  the  resulting  cut. 


Fig.  y. 

The  cutting  of  an  increment  cut  file  consists  in  the  forming  of 
the  teeth  by  a  chisel  operated  in  a  machine,  and  so  controlled  that 
the  spacing  between  teeth  may  be  increased  or  decreased,  the  same 
being  subject  to  a  small  amount  of  irregularity,  as  well  as  a  slight 
variation  in  the  angle  of  the  teeth  with  each  other.  As  manufac- 
tured by  one  company,  the  spacing  of  the  teeth  from  point  to  mid- 
dle is  increased,  and  from  middle  to  heel  decreased.  Another 
leading  manufacturer  increases  the  pitch  from  point  to  heel.  It 
will  be  understood  that  the  increment  of  space  is  very  small.  In 
a  12"  < 'Bastard"  file,  having  feeth  spaced  progressively  wider 
from  point  to  heel,  the  pitch  of  teeth  at  heel  is  about  .01  of  an 
inch  greater  than  at  the  point,  which  makes  the  average  increase 
per  tooth  about  .000030  of  an  inch. 

In  machine-made  files  the  cutting  is  very  rapidly  performed,  the 
chisel  receiving  from  500  to  3,500  blows  per  minute,  depending 
on  the  weight  of  the  file  being  cut.  The  blank  is  cut  from  point 
to  heel,  and  when  turned  over  is  placed  on  lead  strips  to  protect 
the  teeth  already  formed. 

After  cutting,  the  files  are  inspected  and  assorted  as  to  quality. 
They  are  then  tempered,  any  material  change  in  shape  due  to 
hardening  being  rectified  at  the  time  of  tempering,  after  which 
they  are  ready  for  final  inspection.  This  consists  of  trying  each 
file  on  a  piece  of  hard  steel  and  making  sure  that  it  is  free  from 
temper  cracks.  They  are  next  coated  with  oil  and  wrapped  in 
oiled  paper,  to  prevent  rusting,  after  which  they  are  packed  in 
boxes,  ready  for  the  market. 

The  teeth  of  a  file  remove  metal  by  a   shearing  cut.     This  is 


231 

most  apparent  in  the  '*Single-cut"  files,  where  the  teeth  have 
lateral  length;  but  is  equally  true  of  the  pointed  tooth  of  the 
''Double-cut"  file. 

A  file  bites  freer  on  work  having  a  narrow  surface  than  a  wide, 
because  fewer  teeth  come  in  contact,  at  any  point  in  the  stroke, 
with  the  work  surface,  and  consequently  less  pressure  is  required 
to  make  the  file  bite.  On  very  thin  work  the  teeth  of  a  ''Double- 
cut"  file  bite  so  freely  that  the  danger  of  breaking  them  is  great. 
For  work  of  this  character  the  long  tooth  of  the  "Single-cut"  is 
best  adapted,  as  its  form  gives  it  greater  strength,  and  the  shear 
of  the  cut  is  smoother,  one  tooth  coming  into  cut  as  another 
leaves.  On  the  broad  surfaces,  however,  the  teeth  of  the  "Double- 
cut"  have  the  advantage. 

A  file  is  "tapered"  when  it  is  thinner  at  the  point  than  at  the 
middle,  and  is  "full  tapered"  when  thinner  at  point  and  heel  than 
at  the  middle.  The  reasons  for  thus  tapering  a  file  are,  first,  to 
reduce  the  number  of  teeth  that  come  in  contact  with  the  work, 
and,  second,  to  enable  the  operator  to  file  a  straight  or  plane  sur- 


Fig.  /O. 

face.  The  first  reason  is  evident;  the  second  is  shown  in  Fig.  lo. 
If  the  file  is  perfectly  straight,  as  shown  in  i,  the  motion  in  order 
to  produce  a  plane  surface  on  the  work  must  be  absolutely  parallel 
to  this  surface.  This  the  most  expert  mechanic  can  scarcely  be 
expected  to  do,  and  the  result  will  be  work  rounded  at  the  edges 
A  and  B.  If  the  file  is  tapered,  its  surface  will  be  slightly  convex, 
as  shown  in  2,  and  if  moved  entirely  across  the  surface,  straight 
work  will  result.  The  workman  will  experience  little  difficulty  in 
accomplishing  this,  as  he  can    allow  the   motion   of  the  file  to  de- 


282 
viate  slightly  from  a  straight  line,  and  still  not  cut  away  the  edges 
A  and  B.      If  the  file  is  not   moved   clear   across, the  work,  a  con- 
cave surface  will  of  course  result. 

The  tempering  is  certain  to  distort  the  file  somewhat,  and  it 
will,  as  a  result,  usually  be  found  to  have  more  ''belly,"  as  this 
convex  is  usually  called,  on  one  side  than  on  the  other.  It  is  the 
side  having  the  most  ''belly,"  and  the  highest  part  of  that,  that 
the  careful  mechanic  will  always  select  for  use  in  his  most  partic- 
ular work.  This  high  point  he  readily  finds  by  running  his  eye 
along  the  edge  from  point  to  heel. 

In  filing  the  non-fibrous  metals,  as  cast  iron  and  brass,  sharper 
files  are  required  than  for  work  on  steel  and  wrought  iron.  Broad 
surfaces  require,  as  indicated  above,  sharper  files  than  narrow 
ones.  The  systematic  workman  will  therefore  use  his  new  files  on 
broad  surfaces  of  cast  iron  and  brass,  next  on  the  narrow  and 
when  dulled  to  such  an  extent  as  not  to  readily  take  hold  of  these 
metals,  he  will  use  them  for  work  on  wrought  iron  and  steel,  and 
finally,  when  too  dull  for  efficient  work,  may  be  used  for  smooth- 
ing up  and  removing  the  hard  scale  from  castings  and  forgings. 

A  new  or  good  file  should  never  be  used  on  rough  castings,  as 
the  scale  of  cast  iron  is  often  very  hard,  and  will  ruin  the  file  after 
a  few  strokes.  The  edge  of  the  file  can  be  used  to  advantage  for 
this  work,  as  it  is  seldom  used  for  other  purposes. 

When  the  file  is  pushed  endwise  across  the  work,  it  is  called 
cross  filing.  The  work  is  performed  on  the  forward  stroke  and 
the  file  released  from  all  cutting  duty  on  the  return  stroke.  It 
should  not,  however,  on  the  return  stroke  be  raised  from  the  work, 
except  at  such  times  as  may  be  necessary  to  examine  the  condi- 
tion of  the  surface.  As  the  file  is  pushed  forward,  it  should  be 
given  a  slight  side  motion,  and  after  a  number  of  strokes  the 
direction  should  be  changed,  so  as  to  make  the  file  marks  cross  at 
quite  an  angle.  This  will  increase  the  cutting  of  the  file,  and  will 
keep  the  work  true  by  preventing  deep  grooving. 

The  handle  of  the  file  in  cross  filing  should  be  held  in  the 
right  hand,  preferably  with  the  end  of  the  handle  seated  against 
the  palm  and  the  thumb  extended  along  the  top.  The  point  is 
held  under  the  ball  of  the  left  thumb,  the  fingers  pressing  upward 
against  the  lower  side.     In  using  thin  files  the  downward  pressure 


233 

at  heel  and  point  may  spring  them  until  they  are  concave  instead 
of  convex  to  the  work  surface.  In  this  case  the  point  must  be  so 
held  between  thumb  and  fingers  that  the  fingers  exert  an  upward 
pressure  under  the  point  and  the  thumb  a  downward  pressure  a 
few  inches  back  from  the  point,  which  will  tend  to  make  the  file 
more  convex  to  -the  work  surface.  It  is  a  tiresome  way  to  hold  the 
tool,  but  will  at  times  be  found  necessary. 

In  filing  broad  surfaces  the  work  should  be  placed  low,  thus 
enabling  the  operator  to  reach  all  points  of  its  surface  and  to  put 
the  required  pressure  on  the  file.  For  work  held  in  the  vise  or  on 
the  bench,  the  surface  being  filed  should  be  at  about  the  height  of 
the  workman's  elbow,  so  as  to  give  the  forearm  holding  the  file 
handle  a  nearly  horizontal  motion.  If  the  work  is  fine  and  deli- 
cate, it  is  preferable  to  hold  it  higher,  as  it  can  then  be  more 
readily  inspected. 

In  draw  filing  the  motion  of  the  file  is  at  right  angles  to  its 
length.  It  is  firmly  held  in  both  hands  at  heel  and  point,  the 
handle  usually  being  removed.  In  draw  filing  the  metal  is  re- 
moved much  slower  than  in  cross  filing,  with  the  same  cut  of  file; 
but  the  surface  left  is  smoother,  is  not  so  apt  to  be  scratched  in 
the  operation,  and  will  take  a  better  finish.  Draw  filing  requires 
less  skill  than  cross  filing,  the  beginner  being  able  to  produce 
very  creditable  work  after  comparatively  little  practice.  Cross 
filing,  on  the  other  hand,  requires  skill  and  experience  when 
smooth,  plane  surfaces  are  to  be  made. 

The  character  of  the  work  and  the  surface  required  will  deter- 
mine the  coarseness  of  the  file  the  mechanic  will  select  for  per- 
forming it.  The  ''bastard,"  "second-cut"  and  ''smooth"  are  the 
cuts  most  used  by  the  machinist  on  general  work.  The  "rough" 
and  "coarse"  cuts  are  used  mostly  on  the  softer  metals  where  a 
large  amount  of  stock  is  to  be  removed  quickly.  The  fine-cut 
files  will  take  hold  of  the  harder  metals  better  than  the  coarser 
files,  and  will  leave  the  surface  smoother. 

The  file  must  be  kept  free  from  the  cuttings  which  lodge  be- 
tween the  teeth.  When  lodged  too  firmly  to  be  removed  by  tap- 
ping the  edge  of  the  file  against  the  vise  back,  they  should  be 
scraped  out  with  a  soft  wire  file  card  or  brush.  When  working  on 
wrought  iron  or  steel,  cuttings   will   lodge  so  firmly  that  they  can- 


234 

not  be  brushed  out,  but  must  be  picked  out  with  soft  iron  scorer. 
They  will  often  project  above  the  teeth  and  cause  deep  scratches 
in  the  work.  This  annoying  trouble  is  called  "pinning."  It 
may  be  lessened  somewhat  by  thoroughly  chalking  the  surface  of 
the  file,  which  also  prevents  its  cutting  so  freely. 

When  filing  work  in  a  lathe,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  run  the 
surface  filed  too  fast.  It  must  be  remembered  that,  ordinarily, 
the  motion  of  the  file  to  the  work  is  comparatively  slow — say,  forty 
strokes  per  minute,  of  perhaps  8  inches  each.  As  the  file  is  cut- 
ting only  about  one-half  the  time,  the  actual  velocity  of  cut  in 
this  case  would  be  not  far  from  50  feet  per  minute.  The  inter- 
mittent motion  of  the  cut  prevents  the  teeth  becoming  extremely 
hot.  In  filing  revolving  work,  the  number  of  strokes  per  minute 
will  not  be  so  great,  but  the  length  of  stroke  will  be  somewhat  in- 
creased; so  the  actual  cutting  speed  due  to  the  motion  of  the  file 
will  not  be  much  less  than  in  cross  filing.  To  this  must  be  added 
the  speed  of  the  work,  which  will  vary  from  50  to  100  feet  per 
minute.  It  will  be  understood  that,  in  filing  stationary  work  a 
comparatively  short  length  of  the  file's  surface  is  cutting,  whereas 
in  filing  rotating,  work,  nearly  all  of  the  file's  length  is  brought 
into  use  at  each  stroke,  which  offsets  largely  the  disastrous  effects 
on  the  teeth  due  to  too  high  a  cutting  velocity.     The  file  must  not 


Fig.//. 


Fig.  12. 

be  held  stationary,  allowing  the  work  to  revolve  to  it,  as  in  that 
case  a  few  teeth  do  all  the  cutting  and  leave  a  grooved  surface. 
As  the  file  is  moved  forward,  it  should,  as  in  cross  filing,  be  given 


235 


a  small  amount  of  lateral  motion,  first  to  the  right  and  then  to  the 
left,  causing  the  file  marks  to  cross  at  quite  an  abrupt  angle. 
Rotating  work  should  be  filed  as  little  as  possible,  in  order  to  ob- 
tain the  desired  finish,  it  being  almost  impossible  to  retain  the 
cylindrical  truth  of  the  work  if  filed  too  much. 

A  safety  edge  on  a  file  is  one  having  no  teeth.  The  safety 
edge  enables  the  mechanic  to  file  one  of  two  surfaces  A,  intersect- 
ing at  right  angles,  without  injuring  the  other  B,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
II.  The  safety  edge  on  a  new  file  should  always  be  passed  over 
a  grindstone  or  emery  wheel  before  depending  on  its  ''safety,"  as 
in  the  cutting  of  the  sides  the  stock  is  expanded  over  the  edge, 
making  a  slight  concave,  as  shown  at  A,  in  Fig.  12.  While  the 
points  of  the  teeth  do  not,  in  cutting,  form  out  full  over  the  safety 
edge,  the  roots  of  the  teeth  do,  and  they  are  very  apt  to  scratch 
the  surface  the  edge  is  expected  to  protect.  A  very  satisfactory 
safety  edge  is  made  by  grinding  the  teeth  from  the  edge  of  a  full 
cut  file. 


^    y   ' 

y 

irr'illllllll Illllllllllllllllllllll^ 

llHiJJitiijIlllllllllllllllllllll"""' 

y     y' 

_3^- 

V 

Fig-  13. 

When  a  large  amount  of  metal  is  to  be  removed  quickly,  the  file 
may  be  used  at  different  angles,  as  shown  in  Fig.  13.  This  de- 
creases the  area  of  cut  and  increases  the  bite  of  the  file.  A  new 
file  should  never  be  used  for  this  purpose,  as  the  keen  edge  of  the 
teeth  would  be  broken  off.  All  work  surfaces,  especially  if  narrow, 
should  be  held  as  near  the  top  of  the  vise  jaws  as  possible,  thus 
preventing  vibration. 

Good  workmen  will  keep  the  files  they  are  using  in  a  rack  or 
drawer,  so  arranged   that  they  cannot   come  in  contact   with  each 


236 

other.  When  we  consider  the  amount  of  metal  a  file  will  remove 
under  favorable  conditions,  we  are  impressed  with  the  expense  of 
the  tool  when  improperly  used.  Far  too  many  are  ruined  through 
carelessness. 


THE  TOOL  HOUSE  AT  HOME. 

The  following  article  we  copy  from  the  July,  1895,  "Cen- 
tury."    It  is  by  Bayard  T.  Putnam  : 

"I  wish  to  present  a  plea  for  a  'tool  house'  at  home  for  the 
young  people,  and  one  well  stocked  with  the  best  tools.  A  great 
deal  of  creditable  work  has  doubtless  been  done  with  a  jack-knife 
and  an  old  cross-cut  saw,  reinforced,  possibly,  with  a  half-worn- 
out  smoothing  plane,  a  rusty  bit  or  two,  and,  perhaps,  a 
chisel;  and  a  certain  amount  of  ingenuity  has  unquestionably  been 
developed  by  the  adaptation  of  these  tools  to  the  work  in  hand. 
But,  after  all,  the  best  that  can  usually  be  said  of  such  work  is  that 
it  is  very  well  done  considering  the  means.  The  edges  are  rarely 
square  and  true,  the  joints  are  rarely  well  made,  and  the  time  con- 
sumed on  the  "job"  is  apt  to  be  unduly  prolonged,  so  that  the 
work,  if  intended  for  something  more  than  a  mere  makeshift,  be- 
comes wearisome  before  it  is  completed.  A  necessary  conse- 
quence is  that  the  boy  (or  girl,  for  there  is  no  reason  why  a  girl 
should  be  ignorant  of  the  use  of  tools)  becomes  discouraged  with 
his  work,  and  decides  that  his  forte  is  in  some  other  direction.  If 
on  the  other  hand,  a  boy  once  becomes  familiar  with  the  use  of 
good  tools — tools  such  as  ah  artisan  would  use  for  the  same  work 
— the  knowledge  stands. by  him,  and  is  a  source  of  constant  pleas- 
ure and  often  of  some  profit.  In  a  few  words,  to  use  a  Western 
expression,  the  best  tools  ought  not  to  be  'too  rich  for  the  blood' 
of  any  intelligent  American  boy." 


WORDS  OF  WISDOM. 

We  feel  justified  in  the  above  title  because  the  following  was 
not  written  by  ourselves  but  "cribbed"  from  some  one  greater. 
With  the  exception  of  the  first  paragraph  the  article  is  anonymous. 

"One  year's  faithful  practice  at  a    mechanical  employment 


237 

before  the  age  of  ten,  will  make  a  youth  more  efficient  in  future 
than  two  years  after  that  time." — Spencer. 

''The  above  is  good  advice:  If  acted  upon  with  boys,  it  would 
produce  strong  minds,  and  strong  healthy  bodies.  Would  you 
cultivate  the  understanding  of  your  boy,  cultivate  the  powers  it  is 
to  gavern;  exercise  his  mind  and  body  at  the  same  time  in  a  use- 
ful manner — for  the  grand  secret  of  education  is  to  contrive  that 
the  exercise  of  the  body  and  that  of  the  mind  may  always  serve  as 
relaxation  to  each  other.  If  one-tenth  of  the  time  which  is  em- 
ployed in  practising  gymnastic  exercises  were  directed  to  the 
acquisition  of  adequate  industrial  habits,  the  physical  faculties  of 
pupils  would  be  as  well  developed  and  their  power  incomparably 
increased.  Skill  in  the  use  of  tools  is  of  incalculable  advantage. 
It  gives  useful  employment  to  many  an  otherwise  idle  hour.  It 
prompts  one  to  add  a  thousand  little  conveniences  to  the  house, 
which,  but  for  this  skill  would  never  be  made.  In  a  word,  it  is 
carrying  out,  in  a  fuller  sense,  the  design  of  the  Creator,  when  he 
implanted  the  faculty  of  constructiveness  within  us.  A  bent  for 
mechanical  pursuits  usually  manifests  itself  at  a  very  early  period 
in  life;  the  inclination  of  the  six-year-old  boy  to  hammer  and 
pound,  to  tear  open  toys  and  clocks  to  'see  what  makes  'em  go,' 
all  so  annoying  to  the  careful  parent,  may  be  taken  as  indications 
of  latent  constructive  genius,  although  now  manifested  in  a  very 
destructive  form.  In  the  youth  the  mechanical  bias  becomes  still 
more  apparent,  manifesting  itself  in  attempts  to  construct  wagons, 
boats,  small  engines,  etc.  With  such  a  boy  a  mechanical  educa- 
tion is  no  doubtful  experiment." 

Give  your  boys  a  box  of  good  tools,  and  if  possible  a  room  or 
place  for  a  workshop.  Employed  in  it,  they  will  not  only  be  kept 
out  of  mischief,  but  they  will  be  strengthening  their  muscles,  exer- 
cising their  mental  powers,  and  fitting  themselves  for  greater  use- 
fulness, when  they  shall  be  called  upon  to  take  their  places  in  the 
ranks  of  men. 


238 
A  POT  OF  GLUE. 

Many  men  use  glue  all  their  lives  and  know  but  little  of  where 
it  is  made,  or  how.  We  will  tell  what  we  can,  and  that  is  not 
much  after  all — for  it  is  an  old  saying,  among  both  manufacturers 
and  merchants,  that  the  more  you  have  to  do  with  glue,  the  less 
you  think  you  know  about  it. 

There  are  three  leading  kinds:  First,  Hide  Glue,  which  is 
made  of  the  hides  or  sinews  of  cattle  and  such  beasts.  The  pieces 
of  hide  cut  off  by  the  butcher  and  tanner,  which  are  of  no  use  in 
making  leather,  are  soaked  in  lime  water  a  longer  or  shorter  time, 
according  to  their  condition.  The  lime  eats  away  the  fatty  or 
partly  decayed  matter,  leaving  the  glue  substance  uninjured,  pro- 
vided the  process  is  not  continued  too  long.  This  stock  is  then 
carefully  washed  and  put  into  large  kettles,  where  the  glue  liquor 
is  readily  boiled  out  and  the  insoluble  fibre  sinks  to  the  bottom. 
The  glue  liquor  is  poured  into  pans,  where  it  cools  and  hardens 
and  is  just  such  a  substance  as  calves'-foot  jelly  when  served  on 
the  table.  When  cold,  the  jelly  is  turned  out  of  the  pans  and 
sliced,  and  the  sheets  laid  on  nets  and  dried. 

The  second  kind — Bone  Glue — is  made  of  the  largest  bones 
of  cattle,  and  only  differs  from  the  other  method  in  softening  the 
stock  by  an  acid,  instead  of  a  lime  solution. 

Sixty  per  cent,  of  bone  is  lime,  the  other  forty  per  cent,  (or 
thereabouts)  is  glue. 

The  third  kind  of  glue  is  made  from  the  feet  of  cattle  and 
hogs;  their  hoofs  contain  a  large  proportion  of  glue  matter,  and 
this  is  simply  washed  and  then  boiled  out. 

As  to  which  is  best  of  the  kinds  mentioned,  it  is  hard  to  decide 
between  the  first  and  second,  the  hide  stock  and  the  acid-treated 
bone  stock  glues.  The  greater  purity  and  beauty  belong  most 
surely  to  the  bone  stock  glue,  and  for  work  requiring  delicacy  as 
well  as  strength,  it  is  unequalled.  But  the  acid  left  in  it,  and 
which  it  is  hard  to  wholly  eradicate,  qualifies  its  use  for  many 
purposes.  In  stiffening  straw  goods  and  finishing  silks,  and  for 
very  fine-grained  and  hard-surfaced  wood  work,  it  is  admirable. 

But,  if  we  had  no  bone  glue  at  all,  we  could  get  along  very 
Avell.     What  would  we   do,  however,  if  we  had  no  glue  made  of 


289 

hide  stock?  Thick  flowing  or  thin  flowing,  dark  color  or  light, 
slow  settling  or  quick,  rigid  or  elastic,  it  embraces  them  all.  It  is 
an  old  saying  ''that  glue  is  the  poor  workman's  best  friend" — 
that  means  hide  stock  glue,  which  is  the  cheapest  because  it  is  the 
best. 

A  great  improvement  was  made  twenty  years  ago,  when  a 
means  of  grinding  glue  and  at  nominal  cost  was  devised.  Ground 
glue  is  now  extensively  used.  It  is  indeed  not  the  poor  workman's 
but  the  good  workman's  best  friend. 

Now,  a  word  as  to  the  way  to  use  glue.  To  begin  with,  glue  is 
animal  matter.  A  ham  will  keep  a  long  time  uncooked,  but  who 
would  soak  it  over  night  and  forget  it  the  next  day  and  expect  to 
find  the  ham  sweet;  or  who  would  soak  and  cook  it  in  a  pot  where 
other  hams  have  been  cooked  and  the  pot  never  cleaned?  Such 
treatment  of  glue  is  unworkmanlike  and  wasteful. 

Then  the  glue  maker  knows  when  his  glue  is  cooked  enough, 
and  that  to  cook  it  longer  will  hurt  both  its  strength  and  color; 
yet  many  users  think  that  they  can  cook  glue  for  hours  and  get  as 
good,  or  even  better  results.  They  really  ought  to  soak  and  cook 
ahead  just  what  they  require,  and  use  it  as  fresh  as  possible.  If 
the  glue  is  ground  (as  it  should  be)  they  can  soak  it  in  three  min- 
utes, or  dissolve  more  in  the  melted  glue  that  is  in  the  pot  in  one 
minute,  and  always  have  their  melted  glue  at  its  best. 

We  now  come  to  a  source  of  much  trouble.  Glue  will  not 
hold  unless  the  pieces  to  be  glued  are  put  together  while  the  glue 
is  still  hot  and  liquid.  Its  function  is  to  sink  into  the  fibres  and 
grasp  them,  which  it  cannot  do  when  chilled.  In  the  Autumn, 
when  cooler  weather  makes  glue  dry  more  quickly,  we  have  com- 
plaints that  the  glue  will  not  hold.  A  suggestion  to  the  above 
effect  is  usually  sufficient.  Again  take  two  woods:  oak,  which  is 
close-grained,  and  pine,  which  is  porous.  One  requires  a  thin- 
bodied  and  penetrating  glue,  to  soak  in  and  lay  hold;  the  other 
needs  a  heavy-bodied  glue,  used  thick;  or  the  spongy  wood  will 
soak  up  the  glue  and  leave  nothing  at  all  to  hold  with. 

CHEAP  GLUES  ARE  NOT  ECONOMICAL. 

The  quality  of  glue  is  determined  by  the  amount  of  water  it 
will  take,  and  glue  is  usually  tested  in  this  manner.       Some  of  the 


240 

cheap  common,  glues  will  not  take  the  equivalent  of  their  own 
weight  in  water. 

The  cheapest  glue  (No.  5)  will  take  4  oz.  of  water  to  one. 
The  No.  10,  from  5  to  6  oz.  of  water  to  one,  and  the  No.  15  from 
8  to  10  oz.  of  water  to  one  of  glue. 

The  above  extreme  proportions  would  be  modified  by  prac- 
tice, as  different  kinds  of  work  require  the  glue  to  be  thinner  or 
thicker,  as  the  case  may  be. 

It  will,  then,  be  readily  understood  that  a  pound  of  glue, 
costing  10  cents,  and  which  will  only  make  a  quart  of  the  prepared 
article,  is  more  expensive  than  a  glue,  costing  twice  the  amount, 
that  will  make  two  and  one-half  quarts,  this  leaving  out  consider- 
ation of  the  fact,  that  quantity  for  quantity,  the  higher-priced 
glue  is  much  stronger  and  more  durable,  and  in  fact,  more  desir- 
able in  every  way. 

GROUND  GLUE. 

In  past  years  there  has  been  among  many  users  a  prejudice, 
against  ground  glue;  and  there  is  some  foundation  for  this  pre- 
judice, as  there  are  unscrupulous  manufacturers  who  grind  inferior 
glues  as  a  means  of  hiding  their  defects.  It  is  not  easy  to  tell 
much  about  glue  when  ground,  but  it  possesses  several  advantages 
over  the  sheet  glue.  It  requires  but  a  few  minutes  soaking  to 
dissolve,  and  for  those  who  use  glue  occasionally,  it  is  an  easy 
matter  to  prepare  just  the  amount  needed  and  no  more. 

LIQUID  GLUE. 

Fish  Glues  are  applicable  to  all  purposes  for  which  glue  is 
employed,  and  are  amongst  the  strongest  adhesives  known. 

The  advantages  of  liquid  glues  are  found  in  the  saving  of 
labor,  time  and  fuel  necessary  for  preparing  ordinary  glues.  To 
secure  the  best  results,  it  should  be  applied  with  a  short,  stiff 
brush  and  rubbed  off  to  a  very  thin  coat. 


•-.Ml 


DESIGNS  FOR  EQUIPMENT  OF  A  MANUAL 
TRAINING  SHOP. 


Upon  the  following  pages  (241  to  271)  are  shown  designs  for 
apparatus  which  has  been  designed  for  use  in  the  Chicago  Ele- 
mentary Schools. 


TWO   PUPIL  BENCH. 


242 


I 

I 

§ 


^  « :S  •«  ^  ^  ;  3  "  ^  ^'^ 


'<:?>       R,ft,'?5k       R,s 


243 


T7- 

'4' 

•  j^- 

*    €    ' 

■- 

. 

— 

■Z8f 

*? 

^J- 

Y 

■p 

tofi  to  lie.  tnaoie.  of  alter-nate  stri/ia  of  cner.i-if  and 
3  fucd  aixd  ctourcUd   tagtt/tei'.  Stfi/iS  to  ie  ix^ 
ine    te  4e.  made   of  /IsU. 
SacA  dr'auref   to  be.  fitted  witk   2  AeiLvif  Ai^aas  dt-cnuei- 
/lutia   a<icL    out.   Cer-im   loch   NO.  0&94   to  f d   master-  ^ey  of 
faufiita   ienci\.  Atao  a.    iil\e.    ioc/\   on.    cioor^ 
ftitisU   aa  Jier-     ajiecifico-tiow    of  ^u/iil's   /leiic/o 
5ufi/t/if    eacA    ieneA  wUk  oiit,    NO  4-0  Rapid 

Acting    /t3e,    and  o;«.e    do.  JfO.  35   Viati 
Tfeaf,    apace   Lcktnd    tool  ra.cli,  oncl,end  to  tie  u/ainacout 


fl  w.F...<,  n^t 


Dra, 


POSITION  OF T00L2  ON  TEACHER  3  BENCH. 


3ecttcnAB. 


Awr...,   n.f 


Lower  l{acH.     * 


244 


FOUR- PUPIL    PRIMhHY  BENCH. 


2 IX  -PUPIL   PHIMAB  Y  BEN  CH. 


/?  W  Evflns    UlL. 


PFilMAHY  MANUAL  TBAINING  BENCH 


[^ 


28' 


a 


2i4 


7 


J  E 


"SSc/ 


S]  J     I 


\l 


r£oU  &  Wasken^l 


(holta  for-  tte.£0 
^ ^     Screur       U 


:j3E:i. 


is 


^ 


i?x6 


SecUon,  J3C' 


'ii  II  n'-y 


7  /i<^   itite/t   can  itt  nxacle. 
for   -4  fiutlit^     Aiy   onytttm^ 
tniddit.    atcticii,      Tkt.    leiiji/v 
wou.id  iUtn,    /it.      6iP 


3>E 


9Ft.-  - 


l^H 


E3  SEL 


II 


3/2 


y 1 


d    W  f.YfltIi  Ut 


24; 


FOUB    PUPIL    BENCH. 

/8' — ^ 24" *^ /S"- 


Njco 

1 1 

■■;t- 

1          c 

— 

1 r: 

-^ 

1                          1 

o 

'4> 

■■■]:■        c^ 

^ 

I              V 

J  ft    

j:/l  .  Toomeu    DiS. 


246 


DESK  COVER  FOR  PHIMAHY MMUM  TH/ilNING. 


i 


-;-  ; 20 


-2J. 


^eciion.'AB' 


to 


Nad  and  g/ue  iAe /taHs    iogelAtr^- 

Part 'n'  ts  to  it  made  of  AlafiU    all   ot  kt>'  /tarts 

to  jlie  luacte    0/  /'tite   or    W lulturood . 

A   Metal  C Umfl     SuUaile  />>-  holding  uro^^    ,n 

c/iie-ca.r'vinq   is  to  he     atlachecL- 


A  W  r,ra«^  nei 


nnian  af  frati  fnttitMie   K, 


VABNI^H   CUP. 


^^ctioix   on  (t  Ltnt. 


/?    IV  Ev»NS   BtL 


E.Vai^nt.rC   Be 


24^ 


^mop. 


\ 


^'  L talktr  [Belting 
\qlueoL(facc\'3ikc    , 


rf  )d  Frnti  Btl 


BENCH  HOOK. 


9f 


^/r 


£■ 


i'Y 


f- 


f  *- 


r 
1. 


MaJfe  cj-  Anfd  mafi/t, 

ana  J  fuefi, 

I'lHtiU  u/itA  tu/o  cents-- 
of  u/kit*   sk^ila^. 


FmME  FOR  CU22  U3T^ 


-: j. , 

: 

N^  :::::::;; 

'../^^.:^V^'. 

'":::/\ 

K^ 

M 

it 

-  8-  -  -  ;-*-;--» 

|;/  ^ 

i          li 
j          :  i 

1  1                 G., 

1        ;  : 

i      •  i 

d    Cut    ua/a.<f    to   gtt 


O./t   tisL  fc  Kuck  cla3a    ^ .  t  A 


'^  -S 

■< 

J;-.? 

■^ 

" 

^ 

oq^^a 

> 

^ 

-^ 

;S 

:2 

~5 

V 

0^ 

-I 

't'-. 

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< 

1 

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• 

^ 

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, 

i 

i 

> 

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. 

^, 

«; 

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^ 

^ 

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^ 

9, 

. 

, 

5? 

^ 

An  oi'iitnarj   drawnj  sAeel    cut  m   iuro. 
J^iun   itnc/tta   t'tf.aliu-e  to  teucheft  £*nch,. 

A  >^n,..^    77>,    ^.J  D^L 


248 


uFi/iwiNQ  BO  Ann. 


A  w  v^.^  n^/ 


FOLDING  3HELL/iC  anl  GLUE  TABLE. 


■  ^J^^I^'x^'MafiU. 


Section     through   centr't. 


I: 


H  J  Gncn   Z/es. 


249 


^cr 


y'.'.'. 

\  ®  i 

'f 

/ 

7 

^ 

tj^      — f^ 

:  ^ 

^4r 


^ecUoii  o/casc  on  lint  R'B 

^aie  J"=  /£".  Shouitng  door  in /losition. 

/J^" ^ 


JJelaUs  of  do. 


Coinpasi 


^rosyjil.   tl_H_^.,^ 


rac/ia 

W^4 


'^PlnSiZTZ- 


*5S7 


^ 



1 

-iL 

o 



A.. 

/z   JC  /^  i 


HmW/NG  INSmUMENTTmY 


^"""^  "'■•- 


cUo;  on  l,n^    Q-D 

Siuii  §    ii' 


\     I J  CASE  HOLDING  a4  THRY^-. 


ne..^,„.ci  k.  iJ«'PHn../...^n.rr..„^ 


Case  made  of  Whitewood,  except  h"  strips  at  sides,  marked 
Basswood. 

Bottom  of  Till  made  of  i\"  Basswood. 

Divisions  and  sides  of  ^"  x  i"  Whitewood. 

Cut  pieces  as  follows  and    nail    and    glue    together    as    per 
drawing. 

2  pieces  12^"  long. 
2      ^'  ii«e"     •' 

2      <<  3     "      " 


I  piece 

1 1 34"  long. 

I      '^ 

6     "      " 

I      '' 

35/8"      - 

I      '' 

2/8"      - 

I      '^ 

Ii"     - 

250 


JJET/iIL2  OF  GFIIND^TONE  F(EST. 

Finis  A  ut  F. 


■  I  "^1 


IIH     f      \\\ 


*-/# 


T"" 


I  i       Ill  j^'_    m\'  j^^i^     ^J^ 

-( /c  — T-  —  — ; *^ 


^ 


-=lt 


John   H   Tcontq   Pes 


251 


LOCKER    CASE. 


6ft  ai 


fi 


m 


V 


:/ 


lA        %, 


Section  on  /me  A^. 


Prcuids  Ca%k,  witk  6   (oc/is  Cofinv  Na  068  ji  to  fit  tnasTenftey  of  /lu/ii/s  itenc/v. 
Aiso   6    et^OUf   iatc/tes  (s/tfiita  jro.63oo.  ^toc/j  Asfv, 

7'ittisU   with    ii£kt  ftltef    sKeilcLC    a.nci  one    coat    Wafintj     Coach,     Vafnisn/. 
Tkis    urtfff    to  he    fuafanteed   not  to    sAftn/t   of  urCLfU     fov    one  uca.r. 


TOOL   CABINET  sHEZTi^oj. 


A^r 71., 


\^.^.  T'  H,...,^^j    n,^i^,,.. 


252 


C 


J-*-        dite/s  mscUe.. 


Sides  •^' 
>        Cnst  to  ie  iiiiit  oj^\luff 
>>         mUk  top  a.n<i.  ictfm.  oj  ^  " 
L^       Dimtnucns.  26^Xi6'XJ7'    ^ 


>'         d, 


TOOL  CABINET  3HBET NO  Z 


Sca.U  4r     3, 


\({Mf\t»u\  nil 


^~     T'^^-^ATf      T7...J-.. 


Tnni.  r.fliRTNFT  .,»rrrK„\ 


^ 


IM 


i6 

Muhc   i   UAc  iJti 


—JeT— 


^==di^ 


-    ...    -      js  -    - 


-1- 

^ 

-..J  !•• 

Maht      £    Uhc  l/iLi 

1  II- 

--^i^- 

1                                                               1    ll> 

Mahc   S  iiht     r/lii. 

.^.f 

1                  1 II? 

fl  n  friiii  (Iri 


-H- 


^"     - 


Muhc    iO    Ulte  thL 


--i' 


If 


Maht    /J  i^-<c    lki5 


ViTf  f'  ^rinrrfj 


253 


TOOL   r.RRINFT    •inrrT  nn  4 


If^iiucr     ul   Lap 


Yaca.U 
/lay  Hi.     used,    for 
3Cr«/,ers,  cn.r-y 
sit/;i      elc, 


4-i7.-aurc, 


5 

1 

1             If 

3cale    /^    5^J. 


1 

^ 

Jl 

1 

_ 

3^  JJruivci 


6  ^  n  r-awer. 


/iiL-    fiarlicii    tn  cli'uurtt'ji    arc    made   cf     u//i,leureocl   slripi  4  ^  4:  ■ 


-fl^LiUMimJiU. 


lYm  1^  HAmltjf  nctifnrr, 


7c7Z7L 

CABINET   SHEET  NO.  5.        1 

«, 

<2^    S 

ll 

01 

3 

^  Spaces     icme 

1     J   ^/>accs  us  c 

i<;<.e 

^.je    a^   uLo.c 

... 

Vac  a, a 



7^  nruurer                                                     8'^Druure,'                                              9^  H  fi^urc^.                                  1 

jScaU   J6      3ije..                                                                                         1 

4t 

^      1 

i 

■^     ^    * 

A     J     , 

'^ 

3 

•  c  1 

I'M 

^" 

« 

i^ 

<0    >    4 

SS 

to  I 

^  ^ 

*          ^ 

jj 

2  Spacer     fen 

i 

■^ 

^ 

i'G.u,..    __,_ 

tO^and  11^  DroLw^rs.                                         iZ^-^  J] rawer 

J3'^J3ruu,en                                 1 

254 


Ptam.   ./    Drawer 
Etuis  and  aitita    tt  /it  titadt  of 
<^'Wiite^od  -  Bel  tern  of  ^  ' 
Cornen  q/ueit  end  nailui 
3caU  ^   Sijc. 


TOOL  CABINET    sheet  no  6 


fftyfiritm  m 


TOOL    C£3E. 


r'4i 


-  f   Crou,n.  '^« ZSi 


^i_^ 


¥\ 


ii 


Tl 


m 


2/.f 


V^?     I 


^      -J 

1 1:^ 


Z6S- 


!       I 


■  /  /?    r^a,„f^     De^LU, 


255 


DETJUL^ofTOOL   C/12E. 


n 


S^' 


-Z'tjt 


^ 


!1T.V 


i* 


LJ 


./.  <^   Ta»,ue.J flcjtg 


25G 


DETAILB  orTOOL  CASE. 


i."8 


4     ." 


^,r^ 



-.-.•^-.-.-: 

11 

•*.! 

« 

„     3 

< 

>v 

« 

*-  a'-» 

"■ 

. 

1  .i 

,1    "so 

-^^ 

7 


Scui^  /  -  ^^' 


J.  ft  Taamen     De. 


DETAILS  or  TOOL   CA2E 

-J 


Station  of  upfitf  daoi-a. 


R%Ji 111 


ioTraus   iik<i  tAi 


.JLriH-  ?-;■;,. 


Tofi  d»»r»   ofcaat    cirt 
to  StUeSy  a.1   aliowit. 


le' 


Stetteii  of  J-oMtr"  Mtti' 
T/iia  door  <•  <o  iie    AcM   wit/v    Twn 
d.«re^»     a*     icit»m  .    and    a     loch 
at     top. 


^caie    Z'-IZ' 


S,dt  and  Section  cj  }n,nt 
0/    tott    tray    zei-><21'2i' 


■i^m 


a   Traua  l,J,t.   /A.s. 


^^2.,-—^ 

I 

Gauge     Arc 


.T  /7  r^o.i.fi.    z?ts.ui 


LIST  OF  TOOLS  PROVIDED   FOR  IN  TOOL  CASE. 


30  T.  Squares. 

30,  45^  Triangles. 

30,  30    Triangles. 

30  Drawing  Boards. 

30  Instrument  Trays. 

30  Smooth  Planes. 

30  Jack  Planes. 

30  Back  Saws. 

10  Panel  Saws. 

10  Rip  Saws. 

30,  12"  Frame  Saws. 

30  Coping  Saws. 

30  Hammers. 

10  Mallets. 

10  Braces. 

10  Screwdrivers. 

30  Dividers. 

30  Rulers. 


30  Trysquares. 

30  Chip-carving  Knives. 

30  Whittling  Knives. 

30,  i"  Chisels. 

30,  Yz"  Chisels. 

60  Files. 

30  Marking  Gauges. 

3o>  y^"  Chisels. 

30,  %"  Chisels. 

30,  y^"  Chisels. 

30,  y?,"  Gouges. 

30  Parting  Tools. 

30  Veining  Tools. 

30  Spoke  Shaves. 

10  Oilers. 

10  Emery  Stones. 

Sandpaper. 

Waste  and  Extra  Tools. 


258 


SPECIFICATIONS  FOR  TOOL  CASE. 


WOODWORK. 


Tool  cases  to  be  constructed  as  per  drawings  accompanying 
these  specifications. 

The  body  of  the  cases  to  be  made  of  clear  Yellow  Pine 
throughout,  except  the  stiles  and  rails  of  doors,  which  are  to  be 
made  of  ''A  Select"  White  Pine.  Doors  to  be  made  with  raised 
panels  and  stiles  and  rails  to  be  moulded,  as  shown  in  drawings, 
all  to  be  mortised,  glued  and  wedged  together. 

All  shelves,  tills,  partitions,  backs,  sides,  bottoms  of  drawers 
to  be  made  of  clear  straight  grained  Poplar.  All  shelves  are  to  be 
made  }i"  thick  and  no  dado  is  to  be  cut  deeper  than  i^".  The 
shelves  are  to  be  set  into  dados  in  sides  Y%"  deep.  A  clearance 
of  %"  to  be  allowed  between  fronts  of  shelves  and  inside  of  doors. 

All  partitions  between  shelves  are  to  extend  to  the  back  of 
the  case  unless  shown  otherwise  in  the  drawings.  The  grain  of 
the  wood  in  partitions  is  to  run  vertically.  Drawers  are  to  be 
dovetailed  and  glued  together. 

All  tills  are  to  be  put  together,  as  shown  in  drawings,  and  all 
joints  are  to  be  glued  and  nailed  together.  Slides  for  tills  are  to 
be  made  of  Maple  and  are  to  be  fastened  with  glue  and  screws  to 
partitions.  Cases  are  to  be  provided  with  No,  i8  ^"  x  4"  crown 
mould,  i"x>^".  No.  136,  astragal  and  i>^"  x  i^",  No.  156, 
nosing,  all  Yellow  Pine,  and  are  to  be  closed  in  on  back  with  S/^" 
'*thin  clear"  ceiling,  D.  M.  B.  i  side. 

All  work  to  be  smoothly  dressed  and  sandpapered,  and 
properly  prepared  for  oil  finish, 

HARDWARE. 

The  outside  doors  are  to  be  hung  with  4"  x  4",  and  middle 
doors  with  3"  x  3",  extra  heavy,  fast  joint  brass  butt  hinges.  No. 
100  Orr  &  Lockett's  Catalogue.  They  are  also  to  be  provided 
with  six  (6)  wrought   iron   flush   bolts,    r"  x  6",  No.    1026    Orr   cS: 


259 

Lockett's  Catalogue.  The  Dietz  lock  No.  78,  for  i^"  wood,  is 
to  be  put  on  upper  and  lower  doors  and  three  (3)  keys  are  to  be 
furnished  with  each  lock.  Drawers  are  to  be  provided  with  Corbin 
lock  No.  452,  with  same  keys  for  all  locks.  Instrument  trays  are 
to  be  provided  with  No.  801,  (j4")  half  inch  bronze  shutter  knobs. 

OIL  FINISHING. 

Woodwork  is  to  be  finished  with  one  (i)  coat  of  '*D.  C."  or 
^*  V.  S.  O."  pure  gum  orange  shellac  (Shellac  to  be  cut  in  ninety- 
five  per  cent,  pure  grain  alcohol,  3^  pounds  to  the  gallon)  and 
two  (2)  coats  of  varnish  (varnish  to  be  of  the  best  grade  as  manu- 
factured for  the  specific  purpose  by  one  of  the  following  manu- 
facturers: Berry  Bros.  Elastic  Interior  Finish;  Chicago  Varnish 
Co.^s  Shipoleum;  F.  W.  Devoe  &  Co.  Interior  Durable  Wood 
Finish;  Murphy  Varnish  Co.  Transparent  Wood  Finish,  Interior; 
Pratt  &  Lambert  No.  38  Preservative;  The  Glidden  Varnish  Co. 
Pale  Elastic  Interior;  Watts,  De  Golyer  Co.  Elastic  Interior; 
Queen  City  Elastic  Inside  Finish.)  All  work  to  be  sandpapered 
between  coats,  and  each  coat  of  varnish  to  be  thoroughly  rubbed 
with  powdered  pumice-stone  and  rubbing  oil.  Bidders  must  state 
in  their  proposal  the  kind  of  varnish  they  intend  to  use. 


2C0 


Chicago  Public  Schools. 


PROGRAM. 
MANUAL  TRAINING  DEPARTMENT. 


School. 


TIME. 

8.30  IO.CX5 

10.30  —  12.00 

1. 00  —  2.30 

2.30  —  4.00 

1 

o 

Rm.             Gr. 

Rm.             Gr. 

Rm.          j    Gr. 

Rm.             Gr. 

School 

School 

School 

School 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

H 

Rm. 

Gr. 

Rm.         1    Gr. 

Rm. 

Gr, 

Rm.             Gr. 

School 

School 

School 

School 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

Wednesday. 

Rm.         1    Gr. 

Rm.              Gr. 

Rm,          1    Gr. 

Rm,             Gr, 

School 

School 

School 

School 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No,  of  pupils 

1 

Si 

Rm.             Gr. 

Rm.             Gr. 

Rm.             Gr. 

Rm.         1    Gr. 

School 

School 

School 

School 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

Rm.             Gr. 

Rm.             Gr. 

Rm,             Gr, 

Rm.             Gr. 

School 

School 

School 

School 

No.  of  pupils 

No.  of  pupils 

No,  of  pupils 

No,  of  pupils  

261 


Report  Blank. 

MANUAL  TRAINING  DEPARTMENT. 

Repo}t  to    Principal  of School. 

Grade  Time Chicago i8g 


ABSENT. 

TARDY. 

Remarks: 


This  blank  is  to  be  used 
for  no  purpose  other  than 
Reports  to  Principals. 


Manual  Training  Dep't. 


Teacher. 
....  School. 


263 

Board  of  Education, 
City  of  Chicago. 

INVENTORY. 

MANUAL  TRAINING  EQUIPMENT. 

In  the School. 


...i8. 


Note. — Teachers  in  charge  of  Manual  Training  Shops  will  make  report, 
on  this  form,  of  all  tools  and  apparatus  under  their  care.  This  report  is  to  be 
returned  to  the  Supervisor  of  Manual  Training  on  or  before  the  date  above 
given. 


-1 
I- 


ARTICLES. 


Approxi- 
mate 
Price 
Each. 


Remarks. 


Blackboard  Compass 

T  Squares 

30°  Triangles    

45°  Triangles    

Drawing  Boards 

Rubber  Pencil  Erasers 

Pencil  Compasses  (German  Silver)  . . 

Instrument  Trays 

Drawing  Rules 

Counter  Brushes 

Whisk  Brooms 

Double  Benches  (including  vises)  . . 
Teachers'  Benches  (including  vises)  . . 
Four  Pupil  Benches  (including  vises). 
Six  Pupil  Benches  (including  vises)  . . 

Locker  Cases    

Bench  Hooks    

Strops 

No.  2  Smoothing  Planes 

No.  5  Jack  Planes 

No.  6  Fore  Planes   


05 

50 

15 

30  00 

40  00 

20  00 

30  GO 

30  GO 

25 

15 

I    22 

^  53 
I  94 


2C3 
INVENTORY— Continued. 


ARTICLES. 


No.  i8  Block  Planes    

No.  60  Block  Planes   

No.  140  Block  Planes   

No.  45  or  55  Rabbet  Planes  . , 

Back  Saws . .  . . 

Panel  Saws    

Rip  Saws   

Miter  Box 

14"  Turning  Saws     

12"  Turning  Saws 

Pad  or  Keyhole  Saws 

Coping  Saws 

Saw  Vise 

Saw  Set. 

Cabinet  Scrapers 

Hammers 

Mallets,  Rubber 

Hatchets    

Augur  Bits  in  case,  Set 

Dowell  Bits 

Forstner  Bits  (%"  to  1"),  Set 

Braces  (common) 

Braces  (rachet) 

Automatic  Boring  Tool 

Expansive  Bit 

Brace  Drills,   Set 

Screwdrivers   

Screwdriver  Bits 

Nail  Sets    

Countersinks 

Bit  Gauges    

Dividers     

Framing  Squares 


Approxi- 
mate 
Price 
Each. 


72 

72 

83 
850 

86 
I  36 

7  00 
90 
90 

25 
20 
80 

75 

20 

35 
75 
50 

4  00 
20 

7  00 

75 

I  25 

I  25 

I  00 

75 

25 

10 

10 

20 

25 
32 
50 


Rhmarks. 


2G4 


INVENTORY— Continued. 


ARTICLES. 


Approxi- 
mate 
Price 
Each. 


Remarks. 


Rules  No.  6 1     

T  Bevels    

Try  Squares 

Marking  Gauges  . .  . . 

Panel  Gauges    

Splitting  Gauge  . .  . . 
Monkey  Wrench  • .  . . 
Iron  Cabinet  Clamps 
Wood  Hand  Screws  . 
^i"  Chisels 


i^"  Chisels 


5/8'' 


Chisels 

Chisels 

Chisels 

Chisels 

Chisels 

1  "  Chisels 

13^"  Chisels 

2  "  Chisels 

^"  Gouges,  Regular. 
ys"  Gouges,  Regular. 
^"  Gouges,  Regular. 
^"  Gouges,  Regular. 
%"  Gouges,  Medium 
^"  Gouges,  Medium 

i^"  Gouges,  Medium 
i^"  Gouges,  Flat  ..  . 
3^"  Gouges,  Flat    ..  . 

I     "  Gouges,  Flat    . .  . 


Gouges,  Flat 


Bit  Files 
Flat  Files 
Saw  Files 


10 

30 
25 
25 

30 

50 


50 

40 

40  I 

40 

45 

45 

50 

50 

55 

80 

00 

30 

30 

35 

40 

35 
40 

50 
35 
40 

50 
50 
15 
20 
10 


265 


INVENTORY-Continued. 


Add 


Half  Round  Files 

Round  Files 

File  Card  and  Brush 

Carving  Punches 

Cutting  Flyers 

Parting  Tools 

Veining  Tools 

Spoke  Shaves 

Oilers 

Oil  Fillers 

Arkansas  Oil  Stones 

Washitaw  Oil  Stones 

Emery  Oil  Stones 

Gouge  Slips 

Triangular  Slips    

Steel  Letters  and  Figures 

Stencil  Letters  and  Figures,  i>^". .  . . 

Chip-carving  Knives   

Whittling  Knives 

Grindstone    

such  items  as  are  not  indicated  above. 


15 
25 
15 

35 
50 
75 
10 
40 
I  50 
50 
50 
10 
10 

3  00 

I  25 

20 

20 

20  00 


SIGN  HERE. 


Teacher. 


260 


SUPPLIES 

FURNISHED    TO    SHOPS    OF    THE 

MANUAL  TRAINING    DEPARTMENT, 

IN    THE 

ELEMENTARY   SCHOOLS. 


The  following  articles  are  kept  in  stock  at  the  Supply  Depart- 
ment for  the  use  of  the  Manual  Training  Shops,  and  will  be 
furnished  upon  requisition  of  the  Manual  Training  Teachers,  ap- 
proved by  the  Supervisor  of  Manual  Training. 

Supplies  (including  Lumber,  Sundries  and  Tools)  to  the  maxi- 
mum amount  of  One  Hundred  Dollars  ($100.00)  will  be  furnished  to 
each  shop.  The  cost  of  all  items  of  supplies  is  appended  to  this 
list.  Teachers  are  cautioned  to  so  regulate  their  orders  that  they 
may  never  be  in  danger  of  overdrawing  the  allowance. 

Teachers  are  to  make  requisition  for  supplies  at  least  ten  days 
in  advance  of  requirement.  Requisitions  for  supplies  on  this 
LIST  are  to  be  specified  in  accordance  with  the  list,  on  the  regular 
requisition  blanks  of  the  Board,  and  are  to  be  sent  to  the  Super- 
visor of  Manual  Training,  Schiller  Building.  All  items  not 
POUND  IN  THIS  LIST  are  to  be  specified  on  separate  requisition  blanks. 

A  COPY  of  each  requisition  is  to  be  made  upon  the  stubs  pro- 
vided for  that  purpose  in  the  requisition  books. 


SUNDRIES. 


Requisition  Blank  Books 

Drawing  Paper,  10" x  13}^"  (packages  of 

Kite  Paper  (colored) 

Strawboard  (sheets  No.  60,  13"  x   12^") 

Report  Blanks 

12"  Drawing  Rulers 

2'  No.  61  Rules 

Drawing  Compasses 

Thumb  Tacks 


sheets)  . 


>o  10 

17 

20 
10 
05 
05 
40 

15 


Per. 


100  sheets 
100  sheets 
100  sheets 
pad 
each 
each 
each 
100 


267 
SUNDRIES— Continued. 

Rubber  Pencil   Erasers 

Lead  Pencils  No.  i  (gross  boxes) 

Lead  Pencils  No.  3  (gross  boxes) 

Cotton  Waste 

No.  18  Twine  (Balls) 

Sand  Paper  No.    i 

Sand  Paper  No.   o 

Kerosene  Oil  (2  gallon  cans)   

Machine  Oil  ''  "        

Turpentine  ''  "        

Shellac,  White  or  Orange  (2  gallon  cans) 

Alcohol  Oil  (2  gallon  cans) 

Empty  cans  are  to  be  returned  to  the  delivery  wagon  upon  receipt 
of  a  fresh  supply. 

Lamp  Black  (^  lb.  packages) 

Putty  (10  lb.  skins) 

Graphite  {}^  lb.   boxes) 

Pumice  Stone,  F.  F.  (10  lb.  packages) 

Polishing  Felt  (pieces  5"  x  3") 

Wood  Filler,  Light  Oak  (5  lb.  cans) 

Wood  Filler,  Rosewood  "  

Wood  Filler,  Mahogany  ''  

Drop  Black  (i  lb.  cans) 

Floor  Wax  " 

Water  Stain,  Mahogany   (^  lb.  cans) 

Water  Stain,  Walnut  ''  

Water  Stain,  Rosewood  ''  

Water  Stain,  Green  ''  

Glue  (14^  and  i  gallon  cans) 

Glue  Brushes  No.  000 

I "  Varnish  Brushes  (glue  set,  are  not  to  be  placed  in  water) 
i^"  Varnish  Brushes     "  ''  '' 

Nails,  Wire,  Casing,  2d,  (5  lb.  boxes) 

Nails,  Wire,  Casing,  4d,  ''  

Nails,  Wire,  Casing,  6d,  "  

Nails,  Wire,  Casing,  8d,  "  

Brads,  Wire,  >^"  (2  lb.  boxes) 


Cost. 


;^o  08 


Per. 


each 


pound 

08 

ball 

10 

quire 

10 

quire 

50 

gallon 

2    20 

gallon 

2    40 

gallon 

08 

pound 

35 

skin 

10 

box 

'5 

package 

25 

each 

35 

can 

35 

can 

35 

can 

can 

can 

12 

can 

12 

can 

12 

can 

12 

can 

1  75 

gallon 

10 

each 

21 

each 

32 

each 

05 

pound 

04 

pound 

04 

pound 

03 

pound 

07 

pound 

268 
SUNDRIES-Continued. 


Brads,  Wire,  ^"  (2  lb.  boxes) . .  . 
Brads,  Wire,  %" 

Vise  Handles 

Surgeons  Adhesive  Tape  (in  rolls) 

Chest  Locks 

Escutcheons  for  Chest  Locks.  .  . . 

Chest  Handles 

2>^"  Steel  Butt  Hinges 

Brass  Hinges,   Fancy,  No.  6 

Brass  File  Hinges,  ^"  x  2^^".  . .  . 
Brass  Butt  Hinges,  Y^'  Middle. .  . 
Brass  Butt  Hinges,  ^"  Middle. .  . 
Brass  Butt  Hinges,  i"  Narrow  .  . 
Brass  Butt  Hinges,  %"  Desk  .... 


Fancy  Brass  Hinges  No.  i,  for  Glove  Box. . 

Brass  Drawer  Locks  No.  0601 

Brass  Drawer  Locks  No.  0601^  (spring).  .. 
Looking  Glass  Plates  No.  877 


Ih.  boxes) 


Stove  Bolts,  \y^"  x}£" 

14"  Turning  Saw  Blades 

12"  Turning  Saw  Blades 

}("  Dowel  Rods  (36"  long) 

^"  Dowel  Rods  "         

^"  Dowel  Rods  *'         

S/s"  Dowel  Rods  *'        

^"  Dowel  Rods  '*         

ys"  Escutcheon  Pins,  Brass,  No.  18 
y  Escutcheon  Pins,  Brass,  No.  18 
fi"  Escutcheon  Pins,  Brass,  No.  16  " 

^"  Escutcheon  Pins,  Brass,  No.  14         " 

Varnish  Cups 

No.  100  Coping  Saw  Frames 

Blades  for  Coping  Saws 

F.  H.  Bright  Wood  Screws,  >^",  No.  4  (gross  boxes) 
F.  H.  Bright  "  Syi'\    ''    4        " 

F.  H.  Bright  "  ^",    '*    6 


Cost. 


$0  06 
04 
10 

30 
10 
01 
05 
03 
01 
02 
01 
01 
02 
02 
02 

50 
50 
02 
10 
14 
14 
01 
01 
OI 
01 
01 
10 
10 
10 
10 

30 
20 
01 
09 
09 
I  I 


Per. 

pound 

pound 

each 

roll 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

dozen 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

each 

box 

box 

box 

box 

each 

each 

each 

gross 

gross 

gross 


260 
SUNDRIES— Continued. 


I     ", 

2  ", 


10 
10 
12 

3 
4 


^"  (dozens) 


F.  H.  Bright  Wood  Screws,  %",  No.  8 (gross boxes) 

F.  H.  Bright  ''  7A",    '^    8 

F.  H.  Bright 

F.  H.  Bright 

F.  H.  Bright 

F.  H.  Bright 

F.  H.  Bright 

F.  H.  Bright 

F.  H.  Brass  Wood  Screws,  ^", 

F.  H.  Brass  Wood  Screws,  ^i" , 

F.  H.  Brass  Wood  Screws,  ^", 

No.  108  Screw  Hooks  (gross  boxes) 

No.  Ill  Screw  Hooks  " 

No.  108  Screw  Eyes  *' 

No.  Ill  Screw  Eyes  " 

Brass  Hooks  and  Eyes  No.  6 

Brass  Screw  Hooks  No.  412,  S/^"  (gross  boxes) 

Brass  Screw  Eyes  No.  11 13,  y%"  '' 

Brass  Drop  Catches  No.  782  (}(  gross  boxes). 

Wire  Screw  Hooks  No.  6   (for  coat  hangers) . . 

Sash  Knobs  No.  105,  Ys" 

Malleable  Corner  Braces 

Bottoms  for  No.  2   Plane 

Bottoms  for  No.  5   Plane 

Handles  for  No.  2  Plane 

Handles  for  No.  5  Plane 

Frogs  for  No.  2  Plane '. 

Frogs  for  No.  5  Plane 

Knobs  for  No.  2  Plane 

Knobs  for  No.  5   Plane 

Blades  for  No.  2  Plane 

Blades  for  No.  5  Plane 

Clamps  for  No.  2   Plane 

Clamps  for  No.  5  Plane 

Screws  for  Plane  Blades 

Thumb  Screws  for  Dividers 


Cost. 

Per. 

$0  13 

gross 

13 

gross 

15 

gross 

15 

gross 

16 

gross 

20 

gross 

19 

gross 

24 

gross 

25 

gross 

25 

gross 

25 

gross 

55 

gross 

40 

gross 

32 

gross 

25 

gross 

05 

dozen 

40 

gross 

30 

gross 

62 

each 

25 

gross 

01 

each 

01 

each 

50 

each 

60 

each 

15 

each 

15 

each 

18 

each 

18 

each 

06 

each 

06 

each 

20 

each 

20 

each 

15 

each 

20 

each 

05 

each 

05 

each 

370 
SUNDRIES— Continued. 


Thumb  Nuts  for  Dividers 

Wings  for  6"  Dividers 

Wings  for  7"  Dividers 

Shoulder  Screws  for  Wood  Hand-screws,  No.  6  or  10 
Back  Screws  for  Wood  Hand-screws,  No.  6  or  10. 

Thumb  Screws  for  Marking  Gauge 

Brass  Shoes  for  Marking  Gauge 


Cost. 


Per. 


$0  05 

each 

05 

each 

05 

each 

15 

each 

15 

each 

03 

each 

03 

each 

271 


LUMBER. 

8"  X  6'  =;  4'  board  measure. 
Requisitions  for  lumber  are  to  be  made  upon  blanks  separate 
from  requisitions  for  all  other  supplies. 


I  X 


3/s"  X 

^".x  8 
/s"  X  10 
iV  X  10 

K"x    8 

3/8"  X     8 

>^"x    8 

rs"x    8 

^"x 

^"x 

?^"x 

1/  "    V 

y2    X 

^"X 
3/8"  X 


6',  rough  Pine  . 
6',  S.  2  S.  Pine 


6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 
6', 


Pine    

Whitewood     * 

Whitewood     

Whitewood     , 

Basswood 

Basswood 

Q.  S.  Oak    

Q.  S.  Oak 

Q.  S.  Oak 

Q.  S.  Oak 

Maple   (soft) 

Maple   (soft)   

Maple   (soft)   

Gum  (Red) 

Gum  (Red) 

Spanish  Cedar,   for    Lantern 


Slide  Frames 

X  6  "  X  20",  S.  2  S.  White  Holly  (dyed),  Black, 
Red,  Yellow,  Green  and  Blue,  for  inlaying  and 
built-up  work 

X    5     "  X  21",  S.  2  S.  Pine,  for  Towel  Roller 


iV. 


X  20",   rough   Gum,    for  Towel  Roller  and 


I 

I      "  X     3 

ys"  X  10 

1  "  X      I 

2  "  X     3 
I      "  X    3 


Tipcat  

X    2     "  X  12",  rough  Pine,  for  Pen  Tray. .  . . 

"  X  12",  rough  Gum,  for  Pen  Tray..  .. 

"  X  37",  S.  2  S.  Pine,  for  Sled ........ 

"  X  30",        "      Whitewood,  for  Sled. . 

"  X  14",  rough  Ash,  for  Sled 

"  X  10",  S.  4  S.  Birch,  for  Sugar  Scoop 
"  X 


6',  rough  Hickory,  for  Bows  and  Arrows. 


Cost  Per 
Piece. 

$0   16 

16 

20 

19 
16 
18 
08 
08 
15 
15 
20 
20 
10 
16 
22 
22 
30 


^o  10 

02 

02 
01 
02 
10 

13 

01 
04 
09 


273 

A  BIBLIOGRAPHY  OF  MANUAL  TRAINING. 

Prepared  by  The  American  Manual  Training  Association. 

HISTORY  AND  THEORY. 

Adi-ek,  Fei.ix Moral  Instruction  of  Children. 

New  York,  Appleton,  1892.     Pp.  270. 
Bamuergek,  G Education  of  Head  and  Hand. 

Chicago,  Flanagan,  1891.     Pp.  iiG. 
'*  Industrial  Training."     A  Report. 

New  York,  Bruno,  1885.     Pp.  11. 

Banes,  C.  H Manual     Training     and     Apprenticeship 

Schools  in  1890. 
Philadelphia,  Buchanan,  i8go. 

Barnard,  W.  T Report  on  Technical  Education. 

Baltimore,  Friedenwald,  1887.     Pp.  70. 
Belfield,  H.  H Manual  Training  and  the  Public  Schools. 

Educational   Monographs,   V.  i,   No.    i.     New 
York.  1888. 

Blake*  J.  V Manual  Training  in  Education. 

Chicago,  Kerr,  1886.     Pp.  83. 
Browne,  J.  C Handcraft.     - 

Educational   Monographs,   V.    3,    No.    5,    New 

York,  1890. 

Bryant,  G.  H The    Exercise   vs.    The  Complete  Model 

System. 

Proceedings  American    Manual    Training   As- 
sociation, 1897. 

Butler,  N.  M Argument  for  Manual  Training. 

New  York,  Kellogg,  1888. 

Calder,  F.  L Practical  Cooking  in  Elementary  Schools. 

(See    International  Conference  on  Education, 
V.  2,  Pp.  171-184.     London,  Clowes,  1884.) 

Oilman,  D.  C Plea  for  the  Training  of  the  Hand. 

Educational  Monographs,    V.    i,   No.    i.    New 
York,  1888. 

Gotze,   Wold  em  a  r Hand  and  Eye  Training. 

London,  Newmann,  Pp.  229. 


274 

Germain,  V.  J On  the  Teaching  of   Domestic    Economy 

and  Needlework. 

(See  International  Conference  on   Education, 
V.  2,  Pp.  334-346.     London,  Clowes,  1884  ) 

Ham,  C.  H Manual  Training.     The  Solution  of  Social 

and  Industrial  Problems. 

New  York,  Harper,  1886.     Pp.  403. 
Co-Education  of  Mind  and  Hand. 

Educational    Monographs,   V.    3,    No.   4,    New 
York,  1890. 

Harris,  W.   T   The   Intellectual    Value    of   Tool    Work, 

and   The    Educational  Value   of   Manual 
Training. 

Government  Printing  Office,  Washington,  1890. 

Hughes,  J.  L Educational  Advantages  of  Manual  Train- 
ing. 

Proceedings  American    Manual    Training    As- 
sociation, 1897. 

Industrial  Education. 

Eighth  Annual  Report  of  the  Commissioner  of 
Labor.     Washington,  1892.     Pp.  707. 

Jacobson,  Augustus  .  . .  Higher  Ground. 

Chicago.  McClurg.  1888.     Pp.  251. 

Klemm,  L.  R European  Schools. 

New  York,  Appleton,   i88g. 

Larsson,  Gustaf Sloyd  for  American  Schools. 

Boston,  Sloyd  Training  School. 
The  Origin  and   History  of  the  Sloyd  in 
Sweden. 
Proceedings    American  Manual   Training    As- 
sociation, 1897. 

Leland,  C.  G Practical  Education. 

London,  Whittaker,  1888.     Pp.  280. 

Lord,  Emily Sloyd  as  a  means  of  Teaching  the  F:ssen- 

tial  Elements  of  Education. 
London,  Cassell,   1888. 

MacAllister,   James.  .  .Manual  Training  in  the  Public  Schools  of 

Philadelphia. 

Educational   Monographs,    V.   3,   No.    2,    New 
York,  1890. 

McArthur,  Arthur  .  . .  Education  in  its  relation  to    Manual    In- 
dustry. 
New  York,  Appleton,  1886.     Pp.  393 


Magnus,  Sir  Philip, 


275 

Industrial  Education. 

London,  Paul,  1888.     Pp.  271. 

Manual  Training. 

Address  before  National  Association  of  Manual 
Training  Teachers.  London,  Whittaker,  1894 
Pp.   21. 

Manual  Training  and  Industrial  Education. 

Report   of   a   Commission    appointed    by    the 
Governor  of  Massachusetts,  1893.     Pp.  320. 

Marenholtz  Bulow,  Bertha  Von — School  Workshop. 

Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  Bardeen,  1892.     Pp.  27. 
Meath,  Earl  oi--,  ^^//^/'.  Prosperity  or  Pauperism. 

London,  Longman's,  1888.     Pp   342. 

Moss,  J.  F Workshop     Instruction    in     Elementary, 

Higher  and  Evening  Schools. 

(See  International  Conference  on   Education, 
V.  2,  Pp.  24-33      London,  Clowes,  1884  ) 

JSJational  Education  Association — Papers. 

New  York,  Holmes,  1884-1897. 

Adler,  Felix Technical  and  Art  Education  in  Public  Schools. 

1884.     p.  308-319. 

.Report    on     Exhibits     from    Manual    Training 
Schools.     1887.     p.  686-691. 

1896. 


Baker,  J.  H 

Bennett,  C.  A. 


....Esthetic  Principle  in  Manual  Training, 
p.  786-790. 

Manual  Training  from  the  Kindergarten  to  the 
High  School,  1892.     p.  449-455. 

Booth,  E.  R Philosophy     of     Manual    Training.       1895.      p. 

720-731. 

Bradley,  !•  E Influence   of    Manual    Training    on    Habits    of 

Thought.     1892.     p.  663-671. 
Manual   Training   in    Grammar   Grades.     1890. 
p.  834-842. 

Buchanan,  J.  R Moral  Influence  of  Manual  Training.     1883.     p. 

37-46. 

Calkins,  N.  A Course  of  Manual  Training  in   Primary  Classes, 

1890.     p.   828  834. 

Carroll,  C.  F Manual  Training  and  the  Course  of  Study.     1896. 

p.  778-786. 

Carter,  C.  M Manual   Training   through    Industrial  Drawing. 

p.  443-357- 


Clute,  Oscar.  .  , 
■Crawford,  T.  O. 


1886. 
The  Head  and  the  Hand. 


1897-     P-  734-742. 


Educational  Power  of   Manual  Training  in  our 
Grammar  Schools,  1888.     p.  570-583. 


27(5 


Fairchild,  G.  L. 

Fay,  L.  a 

Goss.  W.  F.  M.. 
Hailmann,  W.  N 

Ham,  C.  H 

Haven,  C.  L.  . .  . 
Hoffman,  Paul 
HOYT.  J.  E 


.Some  Limitations  in   Industrial  Training.      1888. 
P-  549-555- 

.Practical    Methods    of   Instruction.       1887.      p, 
206-211. 


.  .Outline  of  Technical  Work  for  a  Manual  Train- 
ing School,  1885.     p.  263-274. 

..Manual    Training    in     the    Elementary    School. 
i8go.     p.   842-850. 

..Educational  Value  of  Manual   Training.     1888. 
p.  259-262. 

.  .Relation  of  the  Kindergarten  to   Manual  Train- 
ing.    1892.     p.  443-448. 

.    ..Manual   Training   in    New    York    City    Schools. 

1892.  p.  471-474- 

....Manual    Training  in  the  Public  Schools   of  the 
Smaller  Cities.     1896.     p.  768-777. 

Jacobson,  Augustus.  ..  .Layman's  View  of  Manual  Training.     1884.     p. 
293-308. 

James,  H.  M Influence   of   Manual   Training    in    Elementary 

Schools.      1890.     p.  850-858. 

Kedzie,  N.  S Need  of  Manual  Training  for  Girls.     1896.     p. 

756-760. 

Keyes,  C.  H Modifications  of  Secondary  School  Courses  most 

demanded  by  the  Conditions  of  to-day.  1895. 
P-  731-741- 

Kovalevsky,  E.  de Manual  Training  in  Russia.     1893.     p.  604-605. 

Larsson,  Gustav Sloyd  for  Elementary   Schools  contrasted    with 

the    Russian    System    of     Manual    Training. 

1893.  p.  599-603. 

Larkins,  C.  D The   Effects   of    Manual    Training.       1895.       p. 

748-752. 
Leipziger,  H.  M.  ......Education     as    affected    by    Manual    Training. 

1892.     p.  439-443- 
Progress  of  Manual  Training,     1894.     p.  877-880. 

Magoun,  G.  F Manual  Education  from   the  Other  Side.     1886. 

p.  484-497. 

McLouTH,  Lewis Some  Definitions.      1891.     p.  745-749. 

Miller,  J.  C Drawing — Its  Relation   to   Manual  Training  and 

the  Industrial  Arts.     1894.     p.  872-876. 

Northrop,  B.  G Industrial    Education    in    the   South.      1889.     p. 

628-633. 

Ordway,  J.  M Handwork  in  the  School.      1884.     p.  319-336. 

Parker,  W.  D Some  Possible  Relations  of  Normal  Schools  to 

Manual  Training.     1897.     p.  749-752. 

Pedagogical  Value  of  the  School  Workshop.     1886.     p.  305-317- 


277 

Place  Manual  Training  should  occupy  in  a  System   of  Public  Schools. 
1887.     p.   196-205. 

PiNNEY,  M.  A    Plea  for  the  Systematic  Extension   of   Industrial 

Training  from   the  Kindergarten   to  Grammar 
Schools.      1895.     p.  753-759. 

Powell,  W.  B Manual  Training  between  the  Employments  of 

the  Kindergarten  and  those  of  the  Grammar 
Schools.      1892.     p.  672-681. 
Industrial  and  Manual  Training  in    the   School 
Course.     1893.     p.  606-613. 

Pratt,  R.  H Industrial  Training  as  Applied  to  Indian  Schools. 

1895-     P-  759-764- 

Report    upon    Classification,      Nomenclature    and    Practical    Details    of 
Manual  Training,  1890.     p.  761-785. 

Report  on  Exhibits   from    Manual  Schools  at  the  Chicago   Educational 
Exhibition,  1887.     p.  678-692. 

Richards.  Zalmon Relation  of  Industrial  to  Intellectual  and  Moral 

Training  in   our    Public    Schools.    .  1888.       p. 
563-569. 

Robinson,  A.  R Industrial  Education  a  Necessity  of  the  Times. 

1895.     p.  741-746. 

RuNKLE,    J.   D Introductory    Address.     Congress   of  Industrial 

and  Manual  Instruction.     1893.     p.  592-594. 

SissoN,  E.  O Mental  Results  from  Manual   Training.      1897. 

P   742-747 
Tadd,  J.  L Manual  Training  Methods  in  Philadelphia  Public 

Schools.     1894.     p.  886-891. 

Thompson,  S.  R Report   of    Progress    of    Industrial    Education. 

1885.     p.  248-257.     1888.     p.  556-562. 

Trybom,  J.   H Sloyd   as   an    Educational    Subject.       1892.      p. 

451-461. 

Walker,  F.  A Manual  Training  in  Urban  Communities.     1887. 

p.  196-205. 

Walters,  J.  D Ways,  Means  and  Maxims  in  Manual  Training. 

1889.     p.  621-628, 

White,  F.  J Physical  Effects  of  Sloyd.     1896.     p.  760-766. 

Wolverton,  N Manual  Training  and  its  Place  in  the  Educational 

System  of  Ontario.     1891.     p.  752-757, 

Woodward,  C.  M Discussion  of  the  French  System  of  Industrial 

and  Manual  Instruction.     1893.     p.  597-599. 

Function  of  an  American  Manual  Training 
School.     1882.     p.  140157. 

The  Function  of  the  Public  School.  1887.  p. 
212-224. 

Manual  Training,  1883.     p.  84-99. 

New  Demands  upon  Schools  by  the  World's  In- 
dustries.    1893.     p.  594-597. 


Organizations  and  Plans  for  Manual  Training 
Schools.     1894.     p.  Sj6-Syy. 

Relation  of  Manual  Training  Schools  to  Technical 
Schools.     1893.     p.  583-389. 

The  Teacher  of  Tool  Work.     1891.     Pp.  749-752. 

New  England  Conference  of  Educational  Workers. 

Conference  on  Manual  Training. 
Boston,  Ellis,  1891. 


Richards.  R.  H 


Woodward,  J.  E 
Enebuske,  C.  J. . 
Abler,  Felix,    . 


BOYDEN,  A.  G. . 
James,  E.  J.  .  .  . 
Bailey.  H.  T.  . 
Larned,  C.  W.  . 
Richards,  C.  R 
KiLBON,  G.  B. . . 
Jones,  D.  W.  . . 


CONTENTS. 

...Manual  Training   as  an    Inspiration    to    Mental 
Development. 

..   Sloyd. 

. .  .The  Relation  of  Sloyd  to  Gymnastics. 

...The  Educational  Value  of  Manual  Training  in 
the  Public  Schools. 

. .  .What  is  Manual  Training? 

. .  .The  Kindergarten  and  the  Public  School, 

...Color. 

. .  .The  Language  of  Form. 

. . ,  Means  and  Methods  of  Manual  Training. 

. .  .Manual  Training  in  Springfield. 

. . .  Manual  Training  as  an  Auxiliary  in  the  Formation 
of  Intellectual  Habits. 

Patten,  S,  N The  Value  of  Education  Relatively  to  the  Con- 
sumption of  Wealth. 

RuNKLE,  J,  D , The  Origin  of  Mechanic  Art  Teaching:  Its  Intro- 
duction into  this  Country. 
And  a  number  of  addresses. 

Palmer,  Courtlandt  .  .New  Education:   Manual  Training  an  In- 
dispensable Department. 

New  York,  Graraercy  Park  School,  1885.  Pp.  24. 

Report  of  the  Commission  on  Industrial  Education,  made  to  the 
Legislature  of  Pennsylvania. 

Harrisburg,  1891.     Pp.  592. 

Report  of  the  Commission  on  Manual  and  Practical  Instruction  in 
Primary  Schools  under  the  Board  of  National  Educational 
in  Ireland. 

Dublin,  Thorn,  1897. 

Richards,  C.  R.  and  O'Neil,  H.  P. — Manual  Training  in  the 
Public  Schools. 

Educational  Monographs,   V.   3,    No.  i.     New 
York,  1890. 


279 

Richards,  E.  H Manual  Training  for  Girls. 

Proceedings  American  Manual  Training  As- 
sociation, 1897. 

RuNKLE,  J.  D Report  on  Industrial  Education. 

Boston,  Brown.     Pp.  34. 

Manual  Element  in  Education. 
Boston,  Rand,  1882.     Pp.  72. 

Sackett,  H.  S The  Value  of  Sewing  in  Manual  Training 

High  Schools. 

Proceedings  American  Manual  Training  As- 
sociation, 1897. 

Salicis,  G.  a Manual  Training  in  France. 

Educational  Monographs,  V.  3,  No.  3.  New 
York,  1890. 

Enseignment  du  Travail  Manuel. 

(In  Musee  Pedagogique.  Memoires  et  docu- 
ments scolaires  Fascicule  No.  33.  Paris. 
Imprimerie  Nationale.     1889.) 

Salomon,  Otto Theory  of  Educational  Sloyd. 

Boston,  Silver,   1896.     Pp.  150. 

Sloyd  in  the  Service  of  the  School. 

Educational  Monographs,  V.  i.  No.  6,  New 
York,  1888. 

ScHMiTT,  E La  Pedagogic  du  Travail  Manuel. 

Paris,  Picard,  Pp.  160. 

ScHOENHOF,  Jacob Industrial  Education  in  France. 

Pt.  I  Technical  Education  in  France. 

Washington.     Gov't.     Printing     Office,     1888. 

Pp.  136. 

Seidel,  Robert Industrial  Instruction,    a   Pedagogic  and 

Social  necessity. 
Boston,  Heath,  1887.     Pp.  160. 

Sluys,  a Manual  Training   in  Elementary  Schools 

for  Boys. 

Educational  Monographs,  V.  2,  Nos.  1-2. 
New  York,  1889. 

Teegan,  T.  H Technical,    Industrial    and    Commercial 

Education  in  France. 

London,  Simpkin,  1891. 
Thornton,  J.  S Manual  Training  in  Germany. 

London,  Laurie,  1891.     Pp.  8. 


280 

United  States  Bureau  of  Education. 

Art   and    Industry:     Education    in    the    Industrial    and    Fine  Arts  in   the 
United  States.     Clark,  I.  E.     3  Vol.  Washington,  1885-1897. 

CONTENTS. 

V.  I.     Drawing  in  the  Public  Schools. 

V.  2.     Industrial  and  Manual  Training  in  the  Public  Schools. 

V.  3.     Industrial    and   Technical    Training    in    Voluntary    Associations    and    endowed 
Institutions. 

Industrial  Education  in  the  United  States.     Washington,  1883.     Pp.  319. 

Reports  of  Commissioner.      Washington,  1887-1896. 

Aesthetic  Element  in  Manual  Training.      1895-1896.     Pp.  1323-1325. 
Exhibit  of  Results  of  Manual  Training.      1892-1893.     Pp.  569-575. 
Fellenberg  or  Manual  Labor  Movement.     1891-1892.     Pp.   506-510. 
Limitations  to  Artistic  Manual  Training.      1895-1896.     Pp.  1325-1326. 
Manual  Training  (Germany).     1889-1890.     Pp.   1209-1212. 
Manual  and  Industrial  Training.     1887-1888.     Pp.   825-910.      1888-1889. 

Pp.  411-428.      1889-1890.     P.  1148. 
Relation  of  Manual  Training  to  Art  Education.     1895-1896.     Pp.  1321-1322. 
Rise  and  Progress  of  Manual  Training.     1893-1894.     Pp.  877-950. 
Statistics  of  Manual  Training  Schools      1888-1889,   Pp.    1362-1367.     1889- 

1890,  Pp.  1351-1357.      1891-1892,  P.  1197.     1893-1894,   Pp.  2093-2169. 

1894-1895.  P.  2170. 
Technical  and  Artisan  Education  in  Russia.     1890-1891.     Pp.  242-253. 
Technical  Instruction  in  Great  Britain.     1891-1892.     Pp.  105-138. 
Technical  and  Industrial  School  (Belgium).     1892-1893.     Pp.  186-188. 
Technical  and  Sloyd  Training.     1895-1896.     P.  989 
Training  in  Sloyd.     1891-1892.     Pp.   427-429. 
Typical  Institutions  offering  Manual  or  Industrial  Training.      1895-1896. 

Pp.  1001-1152. 

Woodward,  C.  M Educational  value  of  Manual  Training. 

Boston,  Heath.  1890.     Pp.  100. 
Manual  Training  School. 

Boston.  Heath,  1887.     Pp.  366. 
Manual  Training  in  Education. 

New  York,  Scribner.      1891.     Pp.  300. 
Manual  Training  Schools. 

(See  International  Conference  on    Education. 

V.  2,  P.  52-68.      London.   Clowes.  1884,) 

Meaning  and  Value  of  Manual  Training. 

St.  Louis.     1897.     Pp-  25- 
Rise  and  Progress  of  Manual  Training. 

Report  of  Commissioner  of  Education.     1893- 

1894.     Pp.  877-950. 


281 
METHODS  AND  MANUALS. 

Andren,  Miss Sloyd  Models. 

London,  Newmann,  1896,  48  sheets. 
Annual  Report  Committee  on  Manual  Training. 

Boston,  School  Document,  No.  18.     1897. 
Barter,  S Manual  Instruction;  Woodwork. 

London,  Whittaker,  1892.      Pp.  343. 

Beardsley,  R.  F The  Chicago  Course  of  Study. 

Chicago  Board  of  Education,  1898.     Pp.    150. 
Chicago  Board  of  Education,  1899.     Pp     300. 

Berlin  Course  of  easy  Woodwork. 

London,  Newmann,  1895.    Pp.  47  and  11  plates. 

Bevis,  a.  W Practical    Lessons     in     Hand    and    Eye 

Training. 

London,  Newmann,  1895,  4  V.     Pp.  66  each. 

BROUCiHTON,  Mrs.   J. ...  Practical  Dressmaking   for   Students  and 

Technical  Classes. 
London,  Macmillan,  1897.     Pp.   190. 

Bruhns,  Alois Die  Schulwerkstatte  in  Ihrer  Verbindung 

mit  dem  Theoretischen  Unterrichte. 
Vienna,  Holder,  1895.     Pp.  69  and  32  plates. 
Carter  and  Roosevelt.  Manual  Training  for  Eight  Years. 

Denver.     State  Superintendent  of  Public    In- 
struction, 1898.     Pp.  85. 

CoQUELiN,  M Necessaire  de  Travail  Manuel. 

Paris,  Larousse.     Pp.  46. 
CoMPTON,  A.  G First  Lesson  in  Woodworking. 

New  York.  Ivison,  1888.     Pp.  188. 
Cutler,  C.  F Primary  Manual  Training. 

Boston,  Educational  Publishing  Co.,  1891. 
Dauzat  and  DERAMOND.Les  Travaux  Manuels  a  V  Ecole  Primaire. 

Paris,  Picard.     Pp.  144. 
Daujat  and  Dumont.  .  .Cours  Normal  des  Travaux  Manuels. 

Paris,  Larousse.     Pp.   320. 
Degerdon,  W.    E The  Grammar  of  Woodwork. 

London,  Macmillan,  1892.     Pp.  44. 
Dumont  and  Phillipon.  Guide  Pratique  des  Travaux, Manuels. 

Paris,  Larousse,  n.  d.     Pp.  219. 
Faivre,  Emile Enseignement  du  Travail  Manuel. 

Paris.  Hachette.  1887.     Pp.  115. 


•->82 

Goss,  W.  F.   M Bench  Work  in  Wood. 

Boston,  Ginn,  1888.     Pp.  161. 
GoTEBORGS  Folkskolors  Modellserie  for  Traslojd. 

Gothenburg,  1891. 
Folkskolors  Modellserie  for  Metallslojd. 

Gothenburg. 

GoTZE,   WoLDEMAR Manual  Training  made  serviceable  to  the 

School. 

London,  Newmann.     Pp.  157. 
Leipzic  Series  of  Sloyd  Diagrams. 

London,  Newmann. 
Handfertigskeitsvorlagen    der    I.eipziger 
Schulerwerkstatt. 

Leipzig. 
Schulhandfertigkelt. 

Leipzig,  Hinrichs,  1894.     Pp.  82. 
Handbook  for  Sewing  Teachers. 

New  York.  Whittaker,  1893.      Pp.  128. 

Hapgood,  O.  C School  Needlework. 

Boston,  Ginn.     Pp.  244. 
Heaton,  William Manual  of  Cardboard  Modelling. 

London,  Newmann,  1894.     Pp-  i^4- 

Hewitt,  William A   Graduated   Course   of   Simple  Manual 

Training    Exercises    for     Educating    the 
Hand  and  Eye. 

London,  Longmans,  1893.     Pp.  229. 
Hinckley,  F.  A Woodwork  in  the  Common  School. 

Springfield,  Bradley,  1895.     Pp.  126. 
Hoffman,  B.  B The  Sloyd  System  of  Woodworking. 

New  York,  American  Book  Co.,  1892.     Pp.  242 
Hudson  and  Cooke  ....  Educational  Woodwork. 

London,  Newmann,  1896.     Pp.  62. 
Cardboard  Modelling. 

London,  Newmann,  1896.     Pp.  29. 

Jay  and  KiDsoN Exercises    for    Technical    Instruction    in 

Woodworking. 
•  London,  Longmans,  1892. 

Johansson,   Alfred  ....  Practical  Directions  for  Making  the  High 

School  Series  of  Sloyd  Models. 
London,  Phillips.     Pp.  58. 


283 

Johnson,  C.  F Progressive  Lessons  in  Needlework. 

Boston,  Heath.     Pp.  132. 

Jones,  Emily A  Manual  of  Plain  Needlework  and  Cut- 
ting Out. 

London,  Longmans,  1891.     Pp.  112. 
JuLLY,  M.  A Le  Travail  Manuel  a  I'Atelier  Scolaire. 

Paris,  Belin,  1894.     Pp.   284. 

Le    Travail    Manuel   a   I'Ecole  Primaire. 
(Classes  sans  ateliers.) 

Paris,  Belin,  1894.     Pp.  262. 
JuLLY  and  Rocheron.  . .  Lecons  Technique  a  I'Atelier  Scolaire. 

Paris,  Belin,  1894.     Pp.   194. 

Kalb,  Gustav First  Lessons  in  Hand  and  Eye  Training. 

Translated  from  the  German. 
London,  Newmann,  1893.     Pp.  143. 

Kilbon,  G.  B .Knife  Work  in  the  School  Room. 

Springfield,  Bradley,  1891.     Pp.  193. 
Elementary  Woodwork. 
Boston,  Lee,  1893.     Pp.  99. 

KiRKwooD,  L.  J Sewing  Illustrated. 

New  York,  American  Book  Co.,  1881. 

Larsson,  Gustaf Teachers'  Sloyd  Manual. 

Boston,  Mudge,  1890.     Pp.  50. 
Handbook  of  Geometric  Wood  Carving. 

New  York,  Kellogg,  1895.     Pp.  32. 
Working  Drawings  in  Sloyd. 
New  York,  Kellogg. 

Laubier  and  BouGUERET.Le  Travail  Manuel  a  I'Ecole   de  la  Rue 

Tournefort. 

Paris,  Hachette,  1888.     Pp.  39  and  19  plates. 
Leblanc,   RENfe L'Enseignement  Manuel. 

Paris,  Larousse,  n.  d.     Pp.  224. 

Love,  S.  G Industrial  Education,  a  Guide  to  Manual 

Training. 

New  York,  Kellogg,  1887.     Pp.  306, 
Lyonnet,  Henri Travail  Manuel. 

Paris,  Baudry.  1889.     Pp.    100. 
Martin,  P.  M Cours  de  Travail  Manuel. 

Paris.  Colin,  1894.     Pp.  206  and  286, 


284 

Modeller  fraa  Naas  Slojdlarare  Seminarium. 

Gothenburg,  Baltzer,  1897.     30  plates, 

Murray,  W.  W A  Course  in  Manual  Training  for  Gram- 
mar Schools. 

Rochester,  Atheneum  and  Mechanics  Institute, 

1897.     Pp.   72. 

Nelson,  William Woodwork  Course  for  Boys. 

London,  Phillip,  1893.     Pp.  60. 

PouLOT,  Denis Method  de  Enseignement  Manuel. 

Paris,  Monrocq,  1889.     Pp.  425. 

Ricks,   George Hand  and  Eye  Training. 

London,  Cassell,  1889.     2  Vol.     Pp.  67  and  64. 
Manual  Training.      Woodwork. 
London,  Macmillan,  1898.     Pp.  188. 

RoDHE,  Eva The  Eva  Rodhe  Model  Series   in  Wood- 
work. 

English  and   Swedish.     Gothenburg,    Baltzer, 
1893.     Pp.  6.     35  plates. 

Rosevear,  Elizabeth  .  .Text-book  of  Needlework,    Knitting   and 

Cutting  Out. 
/  London,  Macmillan,  1893.     Pp.  460. 

RowE,  Eleanor Hints  on  Chip-carving. 

London,  Sutton,  1892. 

St.  John,  George Manual  Instruction,  Woodwork. 

London,  Blackwood,  1891. 
St.  John  and  Turrell.  .The   County  Council   Course   of  Manual 

Instruction. 
London,  Simpkins.     20  plates. 

Salomon,  Otto Teacher's  Hand  Book  of  Sloyd. 

London,  Philip,  1894.     Pp.  270. 
Schwartz,   Everett.  .  . .  Sloyd  or  Educational  Manual  Training. 

Boston,  Educational  Publishing  Co. 
SiCKELS,  IviN Exercises  in  Woodworking. 

New  York,  Appleton,   1890.     Pp.  158. 
SiLOw  and  Salomon.  .  .  .StallningarvidSvenskPedagogiskSwicker- 

slojd. 

Stockholm,  Beijers,  1894. 

Simmonds,  T.  C Woodwork. 

London,  Bemrose.     Pp.  70. 


285 

SuTCLiFFE,  J.  D Handcraft;  English   Exposition  of  Sloyd. 

London,  Griffith,  1890.     Pp.  77. 
Tadd,  J.    Liberty    New  Methods  in  Education. 

Trainok,  Richard Educational  Woodwork. 

Manchester,  Eng.  Course  I,  60  cards.  Course  11. 

Unwin,  W.  C Exercises  in  Woodworking  for  Handicraft 

Classes    in     Elementary     and    Technical 
Schools. 

London,  Longmans,  1887.     30  plates. 
Upham,  a.  a Fifty  Lessons  in  Woodworking. 

New  York,  Kellogg,  1892.     Pp.  gg. 
Whitaker,    Channing.  .  How  to  Use  Woodworking  Tools. 

Boston,  Ginn,  1884.     Pp.  102. 
Wood,  George Manual  Instruction  in  Woodwork. 

Leeds,  Arnold,  1892. 
Young,  C.  S Manual  Training  for  the  Standards. 

Leeds,  Bean.     Pp.  30. 

ARTICLES  IN  PERIODICALS. 

Adler,  Felix. Influence  of  Manual  Training  on  Charac: 

ter. 

Ethical  Review. 
New  Experiment  in  Education. 

Princeton  Review,    11:  143. 

Allen,  E.  A.  H Manual    Training    in    School:    the    New 

Education. 

Unitarian  Review,    35:  454. 

Austen,  P.  T .  .Manual    and    Sense   Training    the   Great 

Problem  in  Education. 

Scientific  American  Supplement,  40:  i63g2. 
Authoritative  Definition  of  Manual  Training. 

Science,  13:  9. 
Balliet,  T.  M Manual  Training:  Its  Educational  Value. 

American  Physical  Education  Review,  i :  60. 
Bates,  R.  C Character  Building  at  Elmira. 

American  Journal  of  Sociology,  3:  577. 
Beardsley,  R.  F Manual  Training. 

Chicago  School  Weekly  No.  i  and  others. 
Belfield,  H.  H Manual  Training  and  Public  Education. 

Science,  9:  372. 


28C 

Bennett,  A.   C Home  Workshop. 

Outlook,  53:  286. 

How  shall  a  Boy  be  Introduced  to  Tools  ? 
Outlook,  53:  155. 

Manual   Training  from    Kindergarten   to 
High  School. 

Journal  of  Education,  36:  167. 
Russian  System  of  Manual  Training. 

Art  Education,  2:  75,  148. 

(The)  Workshop. 
Art  Education,  4:  10,  83. 

Brown,  G.  P Educational  Value  of  Manual  Training. 

Education,  9:  664. 

Capin,   S.  B Manual  Training  for  the  School  of  Boston. 

Education,  12:  117. 

Carroll,  C.  F Just  What    should    Manual   Training  Do 

for  Children  in  the  Elementary  Schools? 

Teacher's  College  Bulletin,  No.  6:  2. 
Manual  Training  and  the  Course  of  Study. 
Art  Education,  3:  13. 

Carter,  C.  M Industrial  Idea  in  Education. 

Century,  14:  679. 

Chamberlain,  A.  H.  . .  .The  Manual  Training  Teacher. 

Art  Education,  4:  190. 
Chapin,  T.  F Educational  value  of  Manual  Training. 

Charities  Review,  6:  335. 
Chapman,  Evelyn Slojd  or  Hand-Training  in  Sweden. 

Science,  9:  269. 
Crawford,  R.  D Benefits  of  Manual  Training. 

Journal  of  Education,  46:  6. 
Davenport,  H.  R Technical  Education  in  Board  Schools. 

Contemporary  Review,  53:  672. 
Davidson,  Thomas Manual  Training  in  the  Public  Schools. 

Forum,  3:  m. 
Dickinson,  H.  W Manual  Training  in  Small  Schools. 

Journal  of  Education,  46:  180. 
Dickinson,  J.  W Industrial  Education  in  the  Public  Schools. 

Education.  7:  669. 


287 

Eh\  ,  Frederick Educational  Value  of  Manual  Construct- 
ive Work. 
Education,  i8:  491. 

Flood,  T.  L Educate  the  Hand. 

Chautauquan,  g:  213. 

(tilmert,  C.  B Some  Manual  Training  Ideas. 

Education,  18:  195. 

(xoss,  VV.   F.  M An  Ideal  Course  of  Shopwork. 

Art  Education,  2:  29. 

Go'izE,  WoLDEMAR Educatioual  Manual  Training  for  Boys  in 

Germany. 
Pratt  Institute  Monthly,  6:  204. 
CiRoszMAN,  Maximilan.  .  Should  Boys  and  Girls  be  Given  the  Same 

Kind  of  Work  in  Manual  Training? 
Teacher's  College  Bulletin,  No.  6:  10. 

Ham,  C.  H Manual  Training. 

Harper's  Magazine,  72:  404. 

Hancock,  J.   A Early    Phase    of    the    Manual    Training 

Movement. 
Pedagogical  Seminary,  5:  287. 

Hanev,  J.  P A  Bit  of  a  Creed. 

Art  Education,   4:  189. 

Harris,  W.  T.  , Psychology  of  Manual  Training. 

Education,  9:  571,  656. 

Harwood,  W.  S Sloyd;     the    Swedish    Manual    Training 

System. 
Outlook,  58:  43. 

Heinemann,  A.  H Manual  Training  vs.  the  Old  Method  of 

Education. 
Arena,  9:  427. 

Henderson,  C.  H Aim  of  Modern  Education. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,  49:  485. 
Cause  and  Effect  in  Education. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,   45:  51. 
Manual  Training. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,  46:  48,  799. 
New  Programme  in  Education. 

Atlantic   81:  760. 
Philosophy  of  Manual  Training,  ist  paper. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,  53:  145. 
Spirit  of  Manual  Training. 
Popular  Science  Monthly,  35:  433. 


288 

Hervey,  W.  L Relation    of    Art    Education    to    Manual 

Training. 
'^  Art  Education,  2:  47. 

Industrial  F^ducation  Association. 

Science,  q:  553. 

James,    E.   J Manual  Training  in  the  Public  Schools  in 

its  economic  aspects. 
Andover  Review,  10:  369. 

JuLLY,  M.  A Manual     Training     in     the     Elementary 

Schools  of  Paris. 
Pratt  Institute  Monthly,  6:  197. 

Keyes,  C.    H Modifications      of      Secondary      School 

Courses  most   demanded    by    the    condi- 
tions of  today. 

Art  Education,   2:  176. 

Krofotkin,  Prince  ....  Brain  Work  and  Manual  Work. 

Nineteenth  Century,  27:  456. 

Larsson,   Gustak Origin    and    History    of    the     Sloyd     in 

Sweden    and    the   Principles    Underlying 
the  Work  of  the  Sloyd  Training  School, 
Boston. 
Art  Education,  4:  145. 

Some  Observations  on    Manual  Training 
in  Europe  and  America. 

Education,  17:  257. 
Slojd. 

School  Journal,  53:  718. 

LuBKOCK,  Sir  John Manual  Instruction. 

Fortnightly  Review,  46:  463. 

Same. 
Popular  Science  Monthly,   30:  327. 

Same. 
Ltttell's  Living  Age,  171:387. 

McDaniel,  B.  F Moral  and  Educational  Value  of  Manual 

Training. 

Lend  a  Hand,  10:  165. 

Mackintosh,  May Place  of  Manual  Training  in  the  General 

Scheme  of  Education. 
Education,  7:  188. 


289 

Magnus,  Sir  Philip.  .  .  .Manual  Training  in  P^ngland. 

Art  Education,  3:  136. 
Manual  Training  in  Relation  to  Health. 

Educational  Review,  3:  78. 
Manual  Training  in  School  Education. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,  31:  493. 
Same. 

Contemporary  Review,  50:  695. 

Manual  Training. 

Journal  of  Pedagogy,  10:  5. 

Manual  Training  Equipment. 

School  Journal,  55:  199. 
Manual  Training  for  Boys  in  the  Public  Schools. 

New  Englander,  43:  561. 
Manual  Training  in  Boston. 

Lend  a  Hand,  10:  193. 
Manual  Training  in  New  York  Schools. 

School  Journal,  v.  55,  D.  18,  supplement,  p.  6. 
Manual  Training  Number. 

New  York  Teacher's  Monographs,  i:  No.  i. 
Marvei^,  L.  H Manual  Education  in  Public  Schools. 

Education,  2:  490. 
Mezes,  S.  E Manual  training  vs.  Crime. 

Charities  Review,  7:  1020. 
Myrick,  Herbert Results  of  Manual  Training. 

School  Journal,  55:  361. 

Ortner,  Evan Manual  Training  in  Woodwork  under  the 

London  School  Board. 

Pratt  Institute  Monthly,  6:  207. 
Painter,  J.  F Course  in  Elementary  Sloyd. 

Art  Education,  4:  13,  113. 
Phelps,  Edward Industrial  Education. 

New  Englander,  47:267. 

Pickwick,  Jr.,  Eli A  Course  in  Manual  Training  for  Elemen- 
tary Schools. 

Art  Education,  3:  38. 

Plunkett,  H.  M Kindergartens  and   Manual  Training  In- 
dustrial Schools. 

Popular  Science' Monthly,  41:  375. 


390 

PuLLAR,    A Seminary  at  Naas  for  Teacher's  in  Manual 

Training. 

Fortnightly  Review,  47:  315. 

Purpose  of  Manual  Training. 

Education,  16:  299. 

Richards,  C.  R Beautiful    Models    in    Manual    Training 

Courses. 

Art  Education,  2:  49. 
Functions  of  Drawing  and  Manual  Train- 
ing in  Education. 

Pratt  Institute  Monthly,  2:  62. 
Manual  Training  for  the    Second    Four 
Years  of  School. 

Teacher's  College  Bulletin,   No.  6;  21. 
Manual  Training:  Where  is  the  Root? 

Pratt  Institute  Monthly,  6:  191. 

Richards,  Zalmon Relation  of  Manual  or  Industrial  Tr»ain 

ing  to  the  Public  Schools. 
Education,  13:  623. 

RooPER,  T.   G Relation  of  Manual  Occupations  to  other 

Studies. 

School  Journal,  54:  474,  505. 

Russell,  H.    R How    the    Benefits   of   Manual    Training 

may  be  Secured. 
Education,  8:  657. 

Ryder,  C.  J Limitations  and  Possibilities  of  Industrial 

Training  in  the  Public  Schools. 
Education,  12:  581. 

Salomon,  Otto Manual  Training;  an  Address. 

The  Schoolmaster,  April  12,  1890. 
Sloyd  Instruction  in  Sweden. 
Pratt  Institute  Monthly,  6:  194. 

ScoTTER,  R Manual  Training;  a  Pastime  for  Boys. 

Westminster  Review,  138:  377. 

Seaver,  E.  P Manual  Training. 

Education,  11:  499. 

Shaw,    E.  R The  Employment  of  the  Motor  Activities 

in  Teaching. 
Popular  Science  Monthly,  50:  56. 


291 

Sissou,    E.  O Mental  Results  from  Manual  Training. 

Journal  of  Education,  46:  87. 

Skinner,  Stella Manual  Training  for  the  First  Four  Years 

of  School. 

Teacher's  College  Bulletin,  No.  6:  13. 
Some  Reasons  for  Manual  Training. 

School  Journal,  56:  205. 
Stoker,  G.  A New  Feature  in  Manual  Training. 

Pedagogical  Seminary,  5:  282. 

Sweet,  A.   K Machine  Shop  Practice  at  the   Mechanic 

Arts  High  School  of  Boston. 

Art  Education,  4:  77. 
Taube,  G.  von Manual  or  Industrial  Training. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,  33:  386. 

THO>rAS,   S Industrial  Training  in  the  Public  Schools 

of  Germany. 
Science,  9:  567. 

Thompson,  C.  O Manual    Labor    Training    in    the    Public 

Schools. 
Education,  4:  592. 

Thorpe,   F.  N Ethics  of  Manual  Training. 

Education,  8:  489. 
History  and  Economics  in  Manual  Train- 
ing Schools. 

Education,  8:  351. 
Manual  Training  as  a  Factor  in  Modern 
Education,    with    Illustrations    from    the 
Philadelphia  Manual  Training  School. 
Century,  16:  920. 

Trybom,  J.  H Sloyd  as  an  Educational  Subject. 

Popular  Educator,  Nov.,  1892. 
Motives  to  Effort  in  their  Relation  to  the 
Department  of  Power. 
Art  Education,  2:  146. 

Walker,  F.A The  Place  of  Schools  of  Technology  in 

American  Education. 
Educational  Review,  2:  209. 

Walker,  F.  A.,  Ham,  C.  H.,  and  Love,  S.  G..  ..What  Industry, 

if  Any,  can  Profitably  be  Introduced  into 
Country  Schools  ? 
Science,  9:  365. 


Walker,  S.  A Manual  Training  in  the  Public  Schools. 

Independent,  49:  1004, 

Wicks,  O.  C Manual  Training  for  the  Grammar  Grades. 

Art  Education,  3:  112. 

Williams,  F.  N Manual  Training  Fairly  Tested. 

Kindergarten  Magazine,  10:  500. 

Woodward,  C.  M Erroneous  Conceptions  of  Manual  Train- 
ing. 

Nation,  49:  350. 
Fruits  of  Manual  Training. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,  25:  347. 
Functions  of  an  American  Manual  Train- 
ing School. 

Popular  Science  Monthly,  21:  621. 
Manual  Training  in  General  Education. 

Education,   5:  614. 
Present  States  of  Manual  Training. 

Pratt  Institute  Monthly,  3:  183. 

Venderhurg,  M.  W..  ..New  Course  in  Manual  Training   in   New 

York  City. 
School  Journal,  v,  56,  January  55,  sup.  p.  5. 

Vroom,  W.  F Manual  Training  as  a  Moral  Discipline. 

Art  Education,  2:  77, 


293 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 


Pages 

Part     i. — Prefatory  Remarks 3-     5 

Part     2. — Hints  on  Instruction  in  Manual  Training  and 

Drawing 6-     9 

Part  3. — Directions  for  Teachers 10-  12 

Part  4. — Courses  of  Study 13-  15 

Part  5. — Articles  Sutable  for  use  in  Manual  Instruction.    16-137 

Part  6. — Chip  Carving 138-144 

Part  7. — Constructive  Work 145-168 

Part  8. — Book  Mending 169-177 

Part     9. — Description  of  the   Important   Woods   of  the 

United  States 1 79-200 

Part  10. — Instruction  on  Tools 201-240 

Part   ii. — Designs  for  Manual  Training  Equipment 241-271 

Part  12. — Bibliography 273-292 

Index. 


294 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

A 

Accidents 8 

Aquarium 84 

Arrow 109 

Auger  Bit  (to  sharpen) 222 

B 

Bean-bag  Board 77 

Bench  Hook 247 

Benches  (Boys) 78 

Bench  (Primary) 244 

Bench  Stop 134 

Bench  (Teachers) 243 

Bench  (Two  Pupil) 241 

Bibliography  of  Manual  Training.  ,273 

Bicycle  Racks 80 

Bill  File 65 

Blacking  Cases 125 

Blotter  No.  i 31 

Blotter  No.  2 67 

Blotting  Pad 70 

Blue  Print  Frame 88 

Book  Mending 169 

Book  Racks 57 

Book  Sewing  Table 177 

Boot  Jack 73 

Bow  and  Arrow 109 

Bow  Gun 77 

Boring  Tools 221 

Box  Kite 34 

Boxes  (Cardboard) 147 

Boys  Work  Benches 135 

Bracket  Shelf 21 

Bracket  Shelf 59 

Bread  Board 37 

Bread  Cutting  Board 35 

Brush  Holder  (Cardboard) 152 


PAGE 

c 

Candle  Stick 131 

Cardboard  Boxes 147 

Chair  (Folding) 130 

Chair  (Lawn) 129 

Chair  (Roman)   121 

Checker  Board 70 

Chip  Carving 138 

Chip  Carving  Knife 30 

Class  Lists 247 

Clothes-line  Reel 117 

Clothes  Pin 22 

Coat  Hanger , 38 

Comb  and  Brush  Pocket 55 

Constructive  Work ....  145 

Corner  Bracket 21 

Courses  of  Study 13 

Crumb  Tray 52 

D 

Definition  of  Manual  Training 3 

Designs  for  Manual  Training  Equip- 
ment    241 

Desk  Cover 246 

Directions  for  Teachers 10 

Drawing  Board 78 

Drawing  Board 248 

Drawing  Instrument  Case 249 

Drying  Rack  (Negative) 53 

Drying  Rack  (Negative) 87 

E 

Easels 47 

Easels  (Rustic) 160 

Electric  Toy .154 

Envelope 146 

Envelope  Case 36 

Envelope  Case  (Cardboard) 151 

Equipment  (Designs  for) 241 


I'AGE 

F 

Faba-baga  Board 77 

Fans 34 

Fencing  Saber n6 

Files  and  Filing 224 

Folding  Chair 130 

Foot  Stools 102 

Frame  for  Class  Lists 247 

Frames  for  Lantern  Slides 132 

Frames  (Picture) 71 

Q 

Garden  Rake 78 

Glove  Box Ill 

Glue 238 

Glue  Table 248 

Grindstone  Rest 250 

Gun 77 

H 

Hammers 223 

Hand  Mirrors 119 

Hanging  Shelves 62 

Hat  Racks 82 

I 

Ink  Stand  No.  i 117 

Ink  Stand  No.  2 40 

Insect  Board 79 

Instruction  on  Tools , 201 

Inventory  Blank 262 

Ironing  Board 37 

J 

Jardiniere  Stand 123 

K 

Key  Rack 38 

Kite  (Box) 34 

Kite  (Conyne) 48 

Kite  (Hexagonal) 48 

Knife  and  Fork  Rest 43 

Knife  Boxes 105 

Knife  (Chip  Carving) 30 

L 

Lantern  Slide  Frames 132 

Lawn  Chairs 129 


295 

PAGE 

Letter  Boxes 76 

Letter  Opener  No.  i 25 

Letter  Opener  No.  3 116 

Letter  Rack 56 

Locker  Case 251 

Looms 158 

M 

Mail  Boxes 76 

Mallets 223 

Map  Modeling 167 

Mat  No.  1 23 

Mat  No,  2 25 

Match  Safes 27 

Match  Safe  (Cardboard) 149 

Match  Scratcher 21 

Medicine  Cabinet 151 

N 

Nail  Boxes 49 

Nature  Study  Case 131 

Negative  Drying  Rack 53 

Negative  Drying  Rack   87 

Negative  Washing  Box 87 

Newspaper  File 102 

P 

Paper  File 65 

Paper  Folder 22 

Paper  Knives 41 

Paper  Pulp 168 

Paper  Rack 97 

Pasting  Roller 177 

Pedestals      133 

Pen  Holder 43 

Pen  Racks 33 

Pen  Trays 100 

Pencil  Boxes 107 

Pencil  Sharpeners 18 

Photograph  Frame 40 

Piano  Bench 104 

Piano  Lamp  Stand 122 

Picture  Frames 71 

Pin  Cushion  and  Scissors  Rack 26 

Planes 216 

Plant  Label  No,  i  and  No   2.     .    . .    16 


296 

PAGE 

Plate  Racks 89 

Printing  Frames 88 

Program  Blank 260 

Puzzle  Blocks 37 

R 

Rake 78 

Reflection  Apparatus 155 

Report  Blank 261 

Ring  Toss 24 

Roman  Chair 121 

Round  Mat 30 

Ruler  (Description) 202 

Rulers 19 

Rustic  Work 160 

S 

Saber 116 

Salt  Boxes 74 

Sandpaper  Block 66 

Sandpaper  File 50 

Saws 203 

Shelf  Models 60 

Shellac  Table 248 

Shinney  Stick 39 

Shipping  Tag MS 

Shopping  List 45 

Sleds 98 

Snow  Shovel 118 

Soap  Box 54 

Specimen  Case 79 

Spreading  Board 79 

Square 203 

Stand    121 

Stamp  Box 69 

Stationery  Case 149 

Step  Ladder 128 

Stools 102 

Strop 247 

Sugar  Scoop no 

Supply  List  (Lumber) 271 

Supply  List  (Sundries) 266 


PAGE 

T 

T  Square 78 

Table 123 

Table 125 

Tabouret    124 

Teapot  Stand    68 

Test  Tube  Rack 131 

Thaumatrope 150 

Tipcat 63 

Tool  Cabinet 251 

Tool  Case 254 

Tool  Chest 132 

Tool  House  at  Home 236 

Tools  (Description) 201 

Tooth  Brush  Rack 26 

Top 56 

Top  (Color) 153 

Top  (Scientific) 156 

Towel  Roller 91 

Towel  Rack 68 

Trays  (Cardboard) 148 

Triangles 78 

Try  Square 203 

Twine  Winder  No.  i  and  No.  2. . . .    16 

U 
Umbrella  Stand 127 

V 

Varnish  Cup 246 

Venetian  Iron  Work 166 

W 

Washing  Box 87 

Waste  Paper  Baskets 112 

Watch  Pocket 118 

Water  Wheel 143 

Weather  Vanes go 

Whisk  Broom  Holder 51 

Whistle 46 

Window  Box 131 

Wire  Work 162 

Work  Benches  (Boys) 135 

Woods  (Description  of) 179 


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